By Kathy Borsuk
Photos By Tropical Imaging

Known as a luxury vacation destination, there are places on Providenciales that can transport you from the common to the sublime. Few do it as well as The Regent Palms. As soon as you step onto its manicured grounds, you enter a bygone era of quiet elegance. The Messel-designed stone buildings, arched windows, stately palms and refined service combine to create an aura of tranquility often lost in our hectic lives.

Parallel23, the resort’s fine dining restaurant, carries forward the tradition of magnificence. An evening on its romantic, candle-lit terrace, enjoying the best in creative gourmet fare, gentle breezes and the sweet serenades of local singers, will leave you in the mood for more.

Evening dining at Parallel23 on Providenciales

Our first stop was the Green Flamingo Bar, a clubby spot with the intimate ambiance of a English salon. We sampled several cocktails, including the trendy-again Cosmopolitan and a well-made French Martini, nibbled on the nuts, chips and olives presented on a silver tray, and dispersed between the dark mahogany bar and the large, comfortable chairs grouped on the terrace. My friend had already marked a spot for the next evening cocktails gathering of her young mother’s group, much appreciating the large outdoor seating space around which all could gather to chat, attentive bar service and lovely cool breeze. We noted that bar fare was readily available, with a bistro-style menu that also included such casual offerings as “sliders” and pizza.

As day dimmed to evening, Parallel23’s romantic ambiance slowly revealed itself. The restaurant is placed at the back of a lovely courtyard, embraced by promenades, The Regent Palms’ grand entrance lobby and the Manor House. The soft lights from the shops, chandelier and manor were perfectly complemented by the backlit palms and landscaping and the flickering candles on each table. As we were ushered to our places, it felt like we were entering our own intimate, glowing bubble of hospitality.

Parallel23’s menu focuses on uniquely interpreted Pan-Tropical fare, with an emphasis on perfectly grilled beef and fish entrees and great side dishes. While we passed on the seared Foie Gras, we had to check out P23’s take on a local favorite. “Symphony of Conch,” is a trio of curried conch bisque, conch tempura, conch hush puppies and smoked conch ceviche — each served with an appropriate and unique sauce or glaze. Quite a step up from the traditional cracked conch, and all holding their own in the melody. The grilled beef satay literally melted in my mouth, and was nicely accented with cumin-spiced grilled pineapple and a tangy peanut sauce. We’ve also heard rave reviews for the Spiced Pumpkin Soup, its so-Caribbean combination of ginger, lime and coconut milk elevating this rather plebian squash to another level. The chef’s treat to the table tonight were tiny squares of toasted sweet bread topped with a luscious ham paté, and the bread basket was filled with herb-infused rolls, baked in the restaurant’s wood-fired brick oven and served with whipped butter and olive tapenade.

Although not a drinker, my friends counseled me that the wine list more than held its own, with a hand-picked sampling of boutique wines from around the world. With the server’s help, they chose an Oriel Setena red from Spain to pair with dinner. I was too busy admiring the beautiful plate decor, which was soon whisked away when dinner was served. Parallel23 boasts a state-of-the art display kitchen, where you can see your dry-aged prime cuts of beef and fresh seafood grilled to perfection. Many of our group chose one of the chef’s blackboard offerings: grilled fresh Caicos grouper. The tender, well-flavored fish was served atop a marvelous morel mushroom risotto with a rich wine-cream infusion. “Surf & Turf” inadequately describes the luscious, butter-tender prime tenderloin cut, accompanied by a black tiger prawn. It went well with one of the many “sides and accessories,” each marked by the stamp of gourmet design. (For instance, there was no mere “baked potato,” but a “sea salt baked Idaho Potato with a chive creme fraiche and smoked pancetta bacon bits,” while the creamed spinach included truffles and the mac and cheese a blend of three cheeses.

In keeping with the Pan-Tropical theme, another in our group sampled the red snapper, served in a sweet/spicy coconut-serrano broth with an intriguing black-bean roast banana mash, pronouncing it “quite a collection of flavors.” I think the health-conscious would swoon over the “Simply Spa” four-course meal, featuring low-carb/low-calorie dishes to delight every sense, and including a grilled veal tenderloin with sun-dried tomato, caper, raisin and olive oil broth served on a bed of vegetable spaghetti; no-sugar strawberry trifle the dessert.

Besides the striking plate presentations, a very special part of the experience was the entertainment. On the evening we visited, local musician Craig Archibold combined his accomplished keyboard skills and silky smooth voice in a melange of melodies that was the perfect accompaniment to our meal. We learned that Craig is a regular on Friday nights performing “Motown” and “island feel” music, while the husband/wife duo NaDa plays international and easy listening music on Wednesdays and Perry Delancey jazzes up Saturday nights.

While none of us had room for dessert, we eyed the interesting dessert menu and earmarked the fantasy that was warm chocolate moulleux with lime/ginger sorbet for a future visit. Again, the chef treated us to a plate of tiny, delectably flavored cheesecake bites to complete the sense-satisfying experience that was dinner at Parallel23. I suspect that on a weekend evening, several of our male companions would have preferred to retire to the softly lit bar for a vintage rum or brandy and fine cigar.

Rogerio Guerreiro, The Regent Palms’ Food & Beverage Manager, notes that the quieter summer and fall months are an ideal time for TCI residents to partake of the pleasures at the restaurant and bar. With a new chef due shortly, and the possible re-institution of movie nights on the beach and concerts in the courtyard, the community is sure to find Parallel23 and the Green Flamingo Bar a fresh new option to add to their social schedule. Planned for the last weekend in May was “An Evening at the Opera,” featuring music by The Three Tenors and Andrea Bocelli, along with a champagne and caviar bar and prix fix menu.

As well, the stately Messel Ballroom is a wonderful venue for weddings, fund-raisers, meetings and conferences — recently hosting such events as the Le Reve Ball and TCI Museum Night. Rogerio promises special rates to TCI residents and businesses for rental space, which can accommodate as many as 100 people for dinner.

Our carefully constructed bubble of inspiring food, attentive service, lively conversation and lovely ambiance eventually had to end. As we drifted home in a dreamy mood, thoughts turned to planning another visit to this paradise under the stars.

For more information or dinner reservations, call 649 946 8666 or visit www.RegentPalms.com.

The Caicos Pride seafood plant takes proactive steps to stay competitive.

By Tara Malcolm, Quality Assurance Manager, Caicos Pride Ltd.

The spiny lobster (Panulirus argus) is an important resource for the Turks & Caicos Islands and even more so for South Caicos. The “Big South,” as the island is affectionately known, is known as the fishing capital of the country, with approximately 75% of its working population in some way connected to the fishing industry.

Fishing for the spiny lobster has seen a downturn since the passage of Hurricane Ike in 2008. While current scientific analysis on the status of the lobster industry is still pending, the experienced fishermen have concluded that finding lobster is now more difficult than it was before.

While suggesting a number of reasons for the downturn in the industry, the fisher folks are positive that lobster fishing now takes more effort, but results in diminishing return. The use of more gas and oil (at a higher price!) to travel further distances out to sea and the necessity of more time spent harvesting the lobster should result in more money for the landed product. Unfortunately, economics does not always strictly dictate market price.

Seafood plants in the TCI and elsewhere purchase lobster from the fishermen at a price that is dictated by the selling price of the product in its primary market. The United States is the main purchaser of lobsters from the Turks & Caicos Islands. With the recession hitting the US hard, there is less demand and falling prices for lobsters. In fact, the 2009 lobster season started off shakily with poor prices and little demand. Seafood processing plants like Caicos Pride Products Ltd. buy and process lobsters only with faith that there will be a future market.

Caicos Pride seafood plant in South Caicos.

Caicos Pride Products Ltd. is a locally owned seafood processing plant located on South Caicos. It processes lobster, conch, and scale fish. The company started operation in 1999 under the leadership of Jimmy Baker. After eight years of working in the seafood industry, first as a fisherman and later as plant manager for one of the processing plants in South Caicos, Jimmy became the general manager of Caicos Pride. With an eye for detail and a commitment to quality, Jimmy knew from the start that he wanted to take seafood processing to another level in the Turks & Caicos Islands. Under Jimmy’s command, Caicos Pride has evolved to become the leading seafood processing plant in the country.

Caicos Pride is a modern facility with a product flow that ensures food safety and quality. Products are processed by highly skilled, educated and diligent staff.  The majority of Caicos Pride’s workers have been with the company for over three years and some have even been with the plant since inception. The Caicos Pride management team has over 60 years combined experience in seafood processing and a staff member who is the recipient of the “Longest Serving Seafood Worker Award” presented by the TCI’s Department of Environment and Coastal Resources.

Jimmy Baker is committed to ensuring the sustainability of the seafood industry but is buffeted by many challenges. The price of lobster in the marketplace has decreased but the processing overhead has increased. The price for electricity, water and demands from suppliers have significantly reduced the profitability of the processing sector. However, Caicos Pride has been proactive and keeps positioning itself to meet the needs of its local and international customers. In 2008, Caicos Pride marked another milestone when it became the first local seafood plant to employ a quality control manager in its drive to maintain the provision of quality seafood for its customers. According to Jimmy, in difficult times such as the current recession, it is critical that Caicos Pride maintains the quality of its products to ensure that customers get the best for their hard-earned money.

Caicos Pride’s desire to protect their valued customers and the seafood industry led them to implement the Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point (HACCP) system. HACCP is the premier food safety system that was first developed by the Pillsbury Company for NASA in the 1960s, in an effort to prevent astronauts from getting foodborne illness while in space. It was adapted in the US by the food industry in 1973 in response to a number of botulism outbreaks associated with canned products. In the mid-1980s, the National Academy of Sciences recommended that the HACCP approach be adopted by all regulatory agencies and that it is mandatory for all food processors.

Caicos Pride Products is the only HACCP certified seafood plant in the Turks & Caicos Islands. HACCP is an internationally acceptable technique for ensuring food safety. The HACCP system allows food operators to assess hazards to food safety throughout the food flow and to put measures in place to assure the safety of the end product. An establishment that is HACCP certified signifies that the company is taking all reasonable steps to provide product of the highest standard. It enhances a company’s image, boost customers’ confidence and conforms to regulatory requirements.

Caicos Pride sees its employees as its most important asset and they, too, are also faced with challenges during this recession. In order to keep workers motivated and to help them through this difficult time, Caicos Pride has implemented a number of staff incentive programs, one of which is the Staff Member of the Quarter Award. Each quarter, one worker is selected for their contribution to the company and is given a cash award and other memorabilia.

Caicos Pride also believes in lending a helping hand to the community. Over the years, Caicos Pride has constantly supported educational and social programs in South Caicos and has been involved in philanthropic activities. They recognize the need to give back to the community as an important role of the company.

What’s next?

Caicos Pride packs local lobster tails for international distribution.

Caicos Pride wants to expand its base in the scale fish industry and be able to satisfy the demand in the local market. In addition, Caicos Pride wants to be able to provide employment for workers during the closed seasons.  Lobster season runs from August 1 to March 31 and conch season from October 15 to July 15. In addition to the closed season, conch also has a quota and in some instances (such as the 2008 season), the quota was exhausted as early as March resulting in the plant being closed for four months. During the closed season, processing and exporting of these products are prohibited and therefore many persons are out of work.

According to a 1990 report, the TCI fin-fish fishery is believed to be underutilized, and is therefore considered to be robust with a potential yield of 70–140 kg/km off the shelf perimeter of the Turks & Caicos Islands. Sustainable fishing in this area will therefore allow for the expansion of the economic base of South Caicos. Caicos Pride is working to take advantage of this opportunity,  which will allow restaurants to provide visitors with authentic local cuisine and provide an opportunity for locals to get jobs during the closed season, thereby, contributing to the country’s Gross Domestic Product.

Caicos Pride has also diversified its marketing strategy. Cleaned, packaged, frozen Gold conch, tenderized conch and conch trimmings, along with lobster tails in a variety of sizes can now be ordered on-line at www.caicoslobsterandconch.com for shipping worldwide.

According to Jimmy Baker, “surviving this recession requires you to diversify, be innovative and see the opportunity in every situation, while at the same time, having a vision of where you want to go.” There’s no doubt that Caicos Pride, “King of Quality Seafood,” plans to provide quality seafood to the people of the Turks & Caicos Islands and the world far into the future.

For more information on Caicos Pride, visit www.caicoslobsterandconch.com.

An authentic French boulangerie comes to Providenciales.

By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos By Claire Parrish

Legend has it that the name for Providenciales comes from the exaltations of French shipwreck survivors upon seeing this “providence of God.” Folks who are connoisseurs of French baked goods are sure to make similar exclamations of happiness when they visit the new storefront Caicos Bakery.

Among my best memories of a bike tour in Provence were the times my father and I would stop in a small village and head for the local boulangerie. Whether it was for croissants at breakfast time, a loaf of French bread or rolls for lunch or sweet pastries in the afternoon, we were never disappointed. As soon as I opened the door to the new Caicos Bakery, tucked in Caicos Café Plaza, I had a sensory flashback to that beloved trip.

It started with that one-of-a-kind mouthwatering fragrance of baking that seems to fill the air with a visible presence — a blend of yeasty bread and sweeter cake smells combined. The charming shop looked authentic too, with selections of fresh bread loaves, baguettes and rolls placed in baskets along one wall, and the colorful and tempting pastries, muffins, croissants, quiche slices, sliced cakes and other treats neatly arranged behind a glass display case.

Eric Cuvillon and Tatjana Milovanovic display Caicos Bakery's selections.

Tatjana Milovanovic is usually behind the counter, cheerfully serving her hungry customers, and when she carefully “gift-wrapped” my selections in decorated paper and ribbon, I had to double-check to make sure there were palm trees and not plane trees (prevalent in France) outside the door.

Frédéric Cuvillon and his brother Eric opened Caicos Bakery in July at the request of residents familiar with their baking skills. Frédéric has been baking traditional French breads and pastries for Providenciales resorts for 15 years from a small shop behind Caicos Café. He originally followed good friend Pierrik Marziou, owner of Caicos Café, to the Islands and supplied baked goods to 20 different local restaurants and resorts, including Bella Luna, Hemingways, Mango Reef and The Palms. Four years ago Eric joined him in the venture and the pair purchased the business. Between the two of them, they brought years of experience from their hometown of Paris. (Frédéric had been a baker in France for 16 years and Eric worked as chef at the infamous “Le Lido” on the Champs Elysées.) When a storefront opened in Caicos Plaza, they decided to take advantage of the opportunity and follow the advice of friends and residents who were fans of their fare.

The brothers were clear from the beginning that they intended to maintain a high standard of quality. This meant that everything had to be baked fresh every day and only seasonal fruits and other ingredients would be used. Eric explains, “There are no expiration dates here!”

As a result, when you bite into a flaky croissant, it melts in your mouth. Hearty farm boules combine a chewy crust with an airy interior. Danish and tarts are delicate and flaky, with fruit fillings and toppings bursting with color and flavor. Eric says he has some customers come every day just for the tender, cream-filled Neapolitans, while crunchy-soft meringues have their own loyal fans. (Times of the Islands Advertising Manager Claire Parrish craves the blueberry muffins, chocolate croissants and coffee eclairs!) Cheesecake slices melt in your mouth, leaving a light after-taste of flavor. Lunchgoers can stop by for slices of traditional French quiche, ham and cheese croissants or mini-pizza rounds.

Caicos Bakery's hearty bread loaves are baked fresh every morning.

With literally only word of mouth advertising, Eric says the storefront business has continued the bakery’s positive trend of the last four years, in spite of it opening during the traditionally slow summer season. In fact, the brothers are trying to get accustomed to juggling their restaurant/resort deliveries with preparing fresh items for the storefront. It has made for some very long days and very early morning hours!

Eric says the bakery also specializes in made-to-order wedding, birthday and special occasion cakes. “We are very flexible and creative regarding the cake flavors and fillings and can do just about anything our customers ask.” Voilà!

Caicos Bakery is located in Caicos Café Plaza. The shop is open with fresh bread at 7 AM and closes at 4:30 PM, daily except Sunday.

Story & Photos By Kathy Borsuk

As Nature turns up the heat (yes, it sometimes feels chilly here to residents during the wintertime), it’s becoming the season for salads. These healthy, snappy, tasty creations have soared beyond the wilted iceberg lettuce-tomato-carrot concoctions many of us grew up eating. Among Providenciales’ extensive variety of dining choices, I found a similarly wide-ranging selection of salads, ranging from elegant to international; unusual to traditional.

O’Soleil, the upscale restaurant at The Somerset at Grace Bay, sets the bar high when it comes to preparation, presentation and service of “island-infused world cuisine.” The kitchen is “womaned” by transplanted Canadian Executive Chef Lauren Callighen, whose menu is a sensual delight of flavors, colors and textures. Dinner is served nightly in the savvy, sophisticated, white-on-white, dining room and Lauren says that her most popular salad is Layered Beetroot and Goat Cheese. “It’s healthy, light and refreshing . . . just what we strive for in all of our dishes, and includes beetroot, one of nature’s ’superfoods.’” Beetroot is high in B vitamins, iron and zinc, and is also a good source of vitamins A and C, calcium, phosphorus, potassium and magnesium. (In Asian culture, it is considered an aphrodisiac!) In Lauren’s recipe it is cut in circles and layered with goat cheese, which, compared to cheese made from cow’s milk, is lower in calories, fat and has no lactose. The salad is garnished with aromatic arugula and served with a hazelnut vinaigrette for a visually delightful presentation.

Lauren strives for uniqueness in other salad selections, as well. O’Soleil’s Caesar Salad includes plantain croutons – a healthful Caribbean twist – and is tossed with an anchovy dressing. Another signature side salad features a baby lettuce blend created especially for the restaurant by Island Fresh produce, the local hydroponic supplier. This is topped with strawberries, walnuts and asparagus, and tossed with a ginger/poppyseed vinaigrette. This, Lauren explains, is an example of her predilection for “sneaking in nutritious ingredients whenever I can.”  Walnuts are a great source of heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids and monounsaturated fats and ginger possesses numerous therapeutic properties including antioxidant effects.

Lemon Café is one of the island’s newest restaurants. Centrally located in the Village of Grace Bay (accessed via the roundabout just south of The Sands on Grace Bay resort), Lemon is “a modern take on Moroccan cuisine with Mediterranean influences.” In fact, stepping into the themed dining room is like entering a luxurious Bedouin tent. Warm, welcoming earth tones and a draped cloth ceiling, exotic music and an unhurried atmosphere invite you to relax and savor your dining experience (bring your own harem!)

Lemon is the dream – two years in the making – of Mark Dillon and partner Natalie Zaidan. Mari is a transplanted Canadian who visited the Islands and identified the need for a restaurant that went beyond the pale, to entice the palettes of residents and visitors alike. Mark’s wife is Moroccan, and besides falling in love with her, he says, “I also fell in love with the food, culture, music and style,” a fact that is clear in the eatery’s careful attention to detail.

Mark let his friend and experienced Executive Chef Jesse MacDonald wield his creativity when it came to creating the menu. “We started with traditional dishes as a template, but spent a lot of time adapting and refining them to make them our own. Above all, we focused on freshness and flavor.”

Lemon’s most popular salad is a twist on the basics. Mark explains, “We combine cucumber, tomato, olives and pickled radishes with a side of cucumber mint yoghurt and humus. It’s tasty, healthy and full of fresh and unexpected nuances. For folks who might want a heartier salad, they can add grilled lemon chicken for increased flavor and protein. Another salad spotlights poached grouper on a bed of fennel and endive, topped with dill and capers, including marinated olives and orange hearts. This savory-sweet combination has a lot of flavors going on, but they all come together really well.”

Another favorite for lunch or dinner is Lemon’s two-bean salad with red onion, parsley, red and yellow peppers and feta cheese, tossed with a lime-artichoke dressing. Besides being another appetite-arousing blend of flavors, this salad makes it easy to eat healthy. Beans provide protein and soluble fiber, while brightly colored bell peppers are rich sources of vitamins C and A, two very powerful antioxidants. Feta cheese, made from goat’s milk, provides an excellent source of calcium, zinc, riboflavin, and vitamin B12, which help strengthen bones, teeth and the immune system.

Simply mentioning the salads doesn’t do the intriguing menu justice, although the salads do represent Lemon’s tantalizing mélange of exotic flavors. A large selection of tapas, tagines and even B’stilla are on offer, with Mark explaining, “We like to play around and have fun with the menu, so every day there’s likely to be something new and different.”

There’s no doubt that Graceway IGA’s popular deli/take-out counter satisfies the salad cravings for many a harried worker during their lunchtime break. Chef and traditional green salads with packaged dressing are on offer, along with a much larger selection of salad ingredients for cooking at home, including organic fruits and vegetables in the store’s huge produce department.

That will soon change and expand when Graceway Gourmet opens this April. Located in the heart of Grace Bay, at the Seven Stars roundabout, the 15,000 sq. ft. store will “cater to the finer palette with a select variety of gourmet food and specialty organic products.” Graceway Gourmet’s delicatessen/take-out department is led by Executive Chef Josh Carlton, who spent the last four years cooking at the upscale Turks & Caicos Sporting Club on Ambergris Cay. He says Graceway Gourmet will focus on fresh, creative, homemade salad specialties for people to eat on-site or take away. “We’ll have a variety of chopped, pasta and potato salads in single and family sizes. And I’m really excited about using 100% compostable biodegradable packaging for most of our food items.”

He revealed one of his signature combinations:  Mango Slaw, a healthy and colorful blend of red and green cabbage and bell peppers, green onion and green mango, tossed with a vinegar-based dressing to keep calories and saturated fat low. Surprisingly for their decadent flavor and perfume-like aroma, mangos are high in iron, a rich source of vitamin A, E and selenium, which help to protect against heart disease and contain phenols, a compound have powerful antioxidant and anticancer abilities.

Chef Josh also plans a number of seasonal salads, based on readily available ingredients through his South Florida produce supplier, which offers an extensive range of healthy and distinctive products. Heartier, protein-rich salads will include seared and slow-roasted fish and seafood.

You can’t mention salads in the Turks & Caicos without highlighting the local legend: conch salad. At roadside “conch shacks” in Blue Hills, you’ll find this raw conch specialty as fresh as it gets. The conch is literally harvested from the ocean, “knocked,” removed from the shell and diced, then tossed with fresh lime juice and chopped onion, sweet pepper and tomato, seasoned with a bit of salt and hot pepper. It’s a tangy, sweet, chewy, fresh from the sea combination.

You’ll find many variations on this national dish, often called by its more sophisticated name, conch “ceviche.” Yet whether served in martini glasses or plastic bowls, conch is a natural Caribbean “superfood”, very high in protein and low in calories with no saturated fat.

Also on the menu (when in season from August 1 through March 31) of many local restaurants, including Smokey’s on the Bay and Caicos Café is lobster salad. This rich treat is made from sweet, tender local lobster tail that has been cooked, cooled and “pulled” (separated into fibers), then tossed with finely chopped onion, sweet pepper, fresh lime juice and mayonnaise. A splash of hot sauce adds the perfect touch. It’s tasty on its own, on a bed of greens or served as a sandwich between slices of still warm, slightly sweet, dense island bread.

Salads make sense as part of a healthy diet, especially in a climate where you spend lots of time in skimpy bathing suits, shorts and tank tops. Luckily, salads don’t have to be boring anymore.

Every time I go to North Caicos, I wonder why I have let so much time lapse between visits. As soon as I step onto the TCI’s “Garden Island,” two things make an impression: a pleasantly rich smell of fertile vegetation and the peaceful sound of silence — Provo’s incessant rumble is noticeably lacking.
These days, it’s easier than ever to spend time on North: the TCI Ferry Service operates daily with Swiss-like precision between Walkin’s Marina at Heaving-Down-Rock in Leeward and the new docking facilities at Sandy Point, North Caicos. And, I recently discovered a whole new reason to make the trip: the food and hospitality at Silver Palm Restaurant in Whitby.

Karen Preikschat, the Silver Palm’s proprietor, has been resident on North Caicos for most of her life. Her father, the late Peter Preikschat, designed and built the Ocean Beach Condominiums on Whitby Beach in the early 1980s. Karen served as resort manager there, while at the same time cooking for the guests from a small kitchen on the second floor of her condominium. Along with college training in hotel and restaurant management, Karen honed her skills in planning meals, procuring ingredients and catering to the tastes of an international clientele in the unusual and sometimes difficult environment of a small, isolated Caribbean island.
The experience served her well. Four years ago, she opened Silver Palm Restaurant in a charming, gingerbread-style building designed by her father, and located just south of the Ocean Beach property. With her own kitchen, bar and huge dining room (including tables on the breezy wrap-around veranda), Karen is clearly in her element.
The Silver Palm specializes in native and international cuisine, and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. (Karen lives on the second floor, so is never far from the kitchen!) The menu is replete with traditional North Caicos fare — including boiled and steamed fish and conch dishes, conch chowder, lobster salad, ribs, and the ever-present peas ‘n’ rice — yet also has some unexpected selections, including a deep-fried “blooming onion” and chicken curry, along with more plebian fare such as pizza, chicken wings and nachos. Coffee-lovers will appreciate Provo coffee-roaster Victoria Turner’s special “Silver Palm” blend, created just for the restaurant.
Because much of her trade depends on the resident North Caicos population, Karen has gone out of her way to offer lots of variety and daily dinner specials, which include a three course meal and wine. These include Italian, Chinese and Caribbean nights and BBQ and prime rib specials. Her beautifully decorated dining room, complete with hand-painted “silver palms” on the walls, cozy pub-style wicker lights, local straw work, linen tablecloths and napkins, and proper place settings and silverware make Silver Palm an ideal place to celebrate special occasions like birthdays, anniversaries, and even weddings — whether local or visiting tourists. Karen also gives folks a good reason not to stay home for the holidays — from Valentine’s Day to Christmas, she offers special menus and makes sure the restaurant is “dressed” for the occasion. (Plans for New Year’s Eve 2008 included an appearance by local music legend Lovey Forbes and his band, with the clock rolled back an hour so everyone can attend the traditional New Year’s Watch Night church services at midnight.)
With a steady stream of customers, Karen relies on the talents of North Caicos native Henry Butterfield to help out in the kitchen. Previously employed for many years at The Meridian Club on Pine Cay and the upscale restaurant at Parrot Cay, Henry wanted to “come home” and Karen welcomed him with open arms. During our luncheon visit, I watched in awe as Henry fried up a batch of tasty conch fritters for the crowd, boiled a lobster tail for my ever-so-fresh lobster sandwich and prepared a bowl of delicious conch chowder . . . all without blinking an eye!
Anyone familiar with North Caicos knows that while the soil is fertile and most anything will grow, it’s not always easy to get a steady supply of produce or seafood products. Karen knows all the tricks, though, and says she uses local fruits, vegetables and seafood as much as possible, patronizing the small grocery stores for staples and making the trip to Provo for “extras” only once or twice a month. I’ve always had a hankering for North Caicos bread and Karen assures us that Henry bakes their own when he has time or she purchases it from Agnes Swann or Miss Jones’s venerable bakery.
Karen’s genuine hospitality and obvious concern for each and every diner infuses Silver Palm with a warmth well beyond the temperate climate. During our visit, Karen took pains to prepare a very late lunch for two hungry Middle Caicos visitors (including hand-cut fries with their sandwiches). She had asked Henry to bake me a homemade carrot cake, recalling from a visit nearly a decade ago how much I loved this treat. She’s the type of hostess who makes sure every detail is just right, no matter what it takes, and the restaurant, kitchen and restrooms are always spotlessly clean.
While Silver Palm’s bar has become a popular watering hole for expatriate homeowners and Islanders alike (I understand the rum punch is a killer), Karen wants to expand the locale’s appeal with monthly appearances by Lovey Forbes and his rip-saw band. We got to hear the toe-tapping, hip-wagging sounds of his lively combina music, complete with Karen’s partner Hymenaus “Poach” Misick on the rip saw and local homeowner Ron Shepard shaking the maracas. No doubt it will enliven quiet North Caicos evenings!
I agree with Karen that Provo residents and tourists are missing out on a good thing. With this in mind, she is busy putting together “A Day in North Caicos” land or sea-based excursion packages, which can include a ground tour of the lush island (including Wade’s Green plantation, the Flamingo Pond, and, of course, lunch at Silver Palm) or fishing/snorkeling/scuba/beach excursions on Captain Poach’s 26 foot Twin V Cat. I believe that Provo residents searching for peace, quiet and a change of scene would be revitalized by a weekend on North Caicos . . . along with a meal or two at Silver Palm. a

Silver Palms is open Tuesday to Thursday, 7:30 AM to 8 PM, Friday and Saturday 7:30 AM to 9 PM and on Sunday from 9 AM to 4 PM. Catering and banquet facilities are available; VISA and Mastercard accepted. For more information, call (649) 946 7113.

Karen has dedicated the restaurant to her parents, Peter and Lois Preikschat, for making her dream a reality.

By Laura Adzich-Brander

Sitting down to coffee with a local fisherman, I innocently asked, “Is there a chance of going snapper fishing this week?” With a twinkle in his eye, the reply came back, “Just what snapper are we talkin’ about? There’s Red Snapper, Gray Snapper, Black Snapper, Mutton Snapper . . .” and the list went on. “And they aren’t all found in the same place.”

The snapper is actually a large family of perciform fishes, a group that consists of approximately 40% of all fish, and are considered the largest order of those that have backbones or spinal columns. In fact, they belong to the ray-finned fish, which are made up of over 7,000 different species of varying shapes and sizes! However, only about 100 of those species are recognized as actual snapper. All find their home in the tropical and subtropical regions of all oceans, yet some enter into fresh water to feed.

Snapper are recognized by their sloped profile and their spiny dorsal fin; their bodies are fairly narrow in depth when viewed head-on. All have short, sharp, needle-like teeth, and several varieties also have prominent upper canine teeth. This is due to the fact that they feed on crustaceans, animals with a stiff exoskeleton, or other fish. There are also a few that are plankton-feeders. The most commonly known, the Red Snapper, can grow up to a metre in length.

Donnie Killom, the eco-tour manager at Big Blue Unlimited, explained that a snapper’s life begins in the grass beds of the lagoon where eggs are laid and then come of age amongst the roots of the Red Mangrove tree. Thriving in the intertidal zone along the south side of the Caicos Islands, the Red Mangrove is the only mangrove species that utilizes a prop root system, which together with the shallow water, keep the larger predators at bay, producing a sanctuary for juvenile fish to spend their formative years before venturing out to the reef.

In the Turks & Caicos, it is the people of South Caicos (”The Big South”) that have continued with the tradition of fishing as their livelihood. It is considered by many as the heart of the fishing industry today, and has been for almost a century.

Mr. Lewis Cox has made his living from the sea for over 50 years. Originally from Provo, he migrated to South Caicos after the hurricane of 1945 wiped out his family’s home along with many others’-and also carried to sea, the boat that held his older brothers who were fishing, never to return home again. The Coxes packed up what was left and headed over to South instead of rebuilding on Provo, given that “all there was in those days was fishin’ and it was far easier off South than back here.  Unless you wanted to work salt . . .”

There they could drop a line in off the docks or anywhere along the shoreline or put down a trap to snap up the fish. “You didn’t have to use a boat,” Lewis recalls. Conch could be scooped up in shallow waters, lobsters were plentiful. And from South Caicos, men plied the waters back and forth to Haiti, trading fish for fresh fruits and vegetables that could not be grown on the more arid terrain of the Turks & Caicos.

When Lewis turned 17, he headed to the Bahamas to make some money “cuttin’ pine.” That only lasted a couple of weeks before he decided it was definitely not for him and thought he would head for home. But he only made it to Nassau where he was picked up to do contract work in the US. He was chosen from a crowd of many because he looked like he could “work hard.” And that he did for five years, following the seasons while harvesting pole beans, pigeon peas, apples, tomatoes, celery and cane – staying at most eight weeks in any one place.

With no telephones to keep regular communication with folks back home, it came as a shock one day when he received a message. It seemed that his ma and brother-in-law had sunk their boat off shore. With only their heads above water, they waited to be rescued for hours on end. When Lewis heard this, he told his boss, “Fix my time ’cause I’m goin’ home.”

He began to build his future, relying on the ocean’s bounty. Where he collected conch and fished from the shore, Lewis gradually reclaimed land and built a fishery, along with several other businesses that service the community. And when asked about his best day of fishing, his smile broke into a wide and wonderful grin. “Fishin’ grounds were so much more plentiful when I was a young man. I remember a day when I went out with Patrick and brought home 2,300 lobster in one day by hookin’ em with a toss. The boat was so full that the lobsters were jumpin’ out and there was barely enough room for me. That’s what we used to do.” Hard work, considering that the toss is simply a stick with a loop on the end that is slipped over the lobster.

Many folks still make their living on the water, but times have changed. Smaller boats are now necessary when fishing for Black, Gray, Yellowtail, Pot and Mutton Snappers out in the shallower waters, either between the reef and shoreline or out over the shoals. Much larger boats with more advanced gear head into deep water for the Red Snapper, found in depths of up to 450 metres. They say, “Dem are considered the real snapper.”

Chris Stubbs of Bite Me Fishing Charters asks that anyone wishing to fish for snapper give a boat captain advance notice. A boat needs to be specifically set up for it and, if they’re fishing for Red Snapper, a deep-sea boat is necessary.

If your mouth waters at the thought of fresh fish on your plate, your best bet is to head off to a local restaurant. Their owners have personal connections with boat captains to ensure that they “snap up” whatever comes in from the sea. Their demand is much smaller than that of Provo’s Grace Bay restaurants; these tourist-oriented establishments most often buy abroad where their source is more consistent. (Of course fresh fish is not always guaranteed in the local haunts either, as rougher seas and Sunday church services can keep the boats at anchor.)

Horse-Eye Jack’s is a popular beachfront restaurant located in the charismatic community of Blue Hills. Head Chef Kirk Scott offers fresh snapper whenever he can get his hands on it, most often from fishermen out of South Caicos. “It’s a fish that is done in a variety of ways local-style,” he explains. “If you grill it, the layers of the fish become exaggerated, flaky. The alternate ways of preparation produce a softer, more tender consistency.” Restaurants prefer to use Red Snapper since the larger the fish, the less bone there is to deal with. The Pot Snapper is the smallest and often deep fried in its entirety.

There is a myriad of ways to prepare the fish, all utilizing the various ingredients and implements that have been native to this country over the decades. Of the various renditions, Kirk says, “Steamed is to sauté carrot, onion, tomatoes and okra to begin. The fish is then seared in butter and added to the vegetables in a pan with a little water. It’s covered with a tight lid and left to steam for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. ‘Stew’ fish begins with the same vegetables as before, the fish pan seared a little longer. Butter is melted to the stage of being almost burned when flour and a dollop of tomato paste are mixed in to form a roux, (elders say, ‘browning the flour.’) The vegetables and fish are then added with a little water and cooked for 5 to 10 minutes, but this time with the lid slightly cocked to let a little steam escape. For souse, in a pot, you’d throw in a piece of fish, potato, carrot, green onion, a lick of vinegar, lime juice and water, and then boil it all to a broth. Drinking this concoction gives your body a real boost! These dishes are often served with johnnycake, a heavy, slightly sweet quick bread.”

Kirk continues, “Snapper is also fried. Lime juice is added to local ‘goat pepper’ or scotch bonnet pepper crushed together with salt to create a marinade. Enough oil is added to a pan to float the fish as you would to deep fry, brought to temperature and then the fish is fried until its flesh is ‘milk white.’ In grilling, the fish is first marinated with lime, salt and black pepper. Before popping it on the grate, the fish is coated with a dash of oil to stop it from sticking. Last, but not least, snapper can also be baked. This style includes cut-up vegetables, fresh thyme, salt and pepper, all mixed in with a bit of soft butter to stuff into the fish with fresh lime drizzled over the top. It is wrapped in a foil pouch and cooked over an open fire from 10 to 25 minutes depending on the heat. The lower the temperature, the longer the time, which allows more intense marinating to bring out the flavors.”

In a restaurant, these dishes are most commonly served with macaroni and cheese. Locally, there could be a bit of onion and red pepper thrown in, fried plantain, okra ‘n’ rice, or peas ‘n’ rice. Rice dishes are often prepared with a pork base or have pigtail, salt beef or ham skin added.

With development bringing a more diversified population, snapper preparation can take on an ethnic twist.  For instance, at Pilipino Lutong Pinoy Restaurant (on Leeward Highway, east of Price Club) owner/manager Alberto Araojo’s favorite snapper dish is Manila Sweet and Sour Fish. A small, whole red snapper is deep fried to create a crispy skin and tender flesh before being smothered in a sautéed concoction of chopped carrots, red pepper, green pepper, pineapple, onion, ginger and minced garlic to which brown sugar, white vinegar, soy sauce, salt and water is added. The whole fish is presented surrounded by fresh red and green pepper, sliced fresh tomato and lemon wedges and served with jasmine rice.

Within Providenciales’ north shore tourist hub, there are a number of fine dining, five-star restaurants with chefs that have years of culinary training. These establishments go to great lengths to have the very best on hand, with fish often flown in fresh several times a week to fulfill their patrons’ wishes. Lauren Callighan, head chef of O’Soleil Restaurant at The Somerset on Grace Bay, has spent significant energy finding the perfect combinations to enhance the flavor of snapper for her clientele.

The fish of the day at O’Soleil is always exquisitely prepared with ingredients from all over the world. Lauren has created a Red Snapper Ceviche, lightly sprinkled with sea salt, with a watercress topper dressed in light vinaigrette. You might also find her Pickled Cucumber Cold Consommé with Watermelon Sorbet served alongside a Pan-seared Fillet of Snapper. As the preparation involves sake vinegar, this dish has a hint of Japanese flavor. For the very health conscious or European palate, Lauren prepares a simple, incredibly moist Oven-roasted Snapper using only olive oil and salt and pepper. She keeps the scales on to keep the aroma and flavors intact and serves an orange and ginger sauce alongside, with an arugula salad to complement. Another favorite is the Red Snapper with Wild Mushroom Crust incorporating truffle oil, the topping beautifully enhancing the wild flavors of the fish. The dish is lightly drizzled with basil-infused olive oil and served on a bed of crisp French beans alongside a roasted leek garnish.

Of course, you may wish to try your hand at creating your own masterpiece when dining in the privacy of home or holiday rental. On Providenciales, you can find seafood in a number of spots. Graceway IGA (on Leeward Highway, soon with a second location in Grace Bay) and Island Pride Supermarket (downtown) bring in an assortment from the US and occasionally purchase locally, the best chance of getting fresh, rather than fresh-frozen. You can also check out Island Seafood next to Neessy Restaurant (across from Discount Liquors and Club Celebrity). If you’re adventuresome, head into Five Cays around 4 PM when fishing boats land with their catch at two fish plants. The plants normally sell only conch and lobster, but if you ask, they can steer you to a boat that has fish for sale if they have none on hand. Here, snapper will run around $6 to $7 per pound for the shallow-water varieties; over $11 a pound for Red Snapper.

Green corn on North Caicos

When Agnes comes out to the yard, she laughs and calls out, “Jody, you look TI.” I hold out my arms, displaying myself for her and thinking about what she sees. I am sitting on an overturned bucket by the fire, my knees together to maintain modesty in my shift, my hand wrapped around a half-nibbled, blackened ear of local corn. Yeah, I guess I do look like a Turks Islander, with the exception of my white skin.

It’s green corn time on North Caicos. Susie and Clifford each brought home an armful of ears, so there’s plenty to roast. Susie and Spring “caught a fire,” as they say, with me tagging along and contributing a few small sticks from the yard. Now we’re all gathered around, tossing ears — some shucked, some in husks — into the coals, then flipping them away from the heat with sticks. A few hot jiggles from hand to hand and it’s a feast.

The dry, chewy kernels separate from the ear cleanly; this is the opposite of American hybrids with their high water and sugar content. Our ears are closer to popcorn in texture and flavor. There are, in fact, occasional pops as the corn roasts. Eating is a workout for the jaws, but the reward is a satisfying taste of island life.

Our conversation is light and superficial as we focus primarily on eating. Clifford and Susie mock-argue about whose corn is better, identifying different ears as “soft” — not a prized quality. I volunteer to eat one of the soft ears and I have to agree that the hard corn is superior.

And then there is the counting. Spring and Alison are in competition, setting the bar higher and higher as they pull ears from the fire. We all start to tease Alison about eating only the smallest ears. She responds by leaning back and unzipping the fly of her jeans, a gesture that jars with her petite, demure appearance.

I, of course, am the slowest eater. After three ears I take a break, but I’m eventually shamed into a fourth. Spring and Alison are up to ten; Clifford has seven or eight cobs at his feet. Susie says only, “I don’t count. I just ate a bellyful.” Agnes, who has joined us, quickly matches my count.

We can’t finish it all. There’s just too much. I lean back on my bucket seat, splaying my legs, no longer caring about appearance. I look around and realize we are all in the same posture. Green corn has brought this greenhorn Turks Islander into the fold.