By Kathy Borsuk

When I visited the Venetian Ridge Vacation Villas office to interview developer J. Kelly Sullivan for this story, I met him bubbling over with enthusiasm. He had just returned from his hometown of Toronto, where he was a lead sponsor of Toronto’s Ultimate Travel Show, Canada’s largest travel showcase. Interest in the Turks & Caicos Islands was enhanced by his new affordable opportunity for almost anyone to vacation in this upscale destination.

This reflects a long “flirtation” between Canada and the TCI, which at one time nearly developed into a marriage (the annexation of the Islands). Many interested suitors continue to visit, with an eye out for a good bargain. Venetian Ridge Villas are especially appealing, Kelly explains, “Because they represent the affordable way for couples and families to vacation in Turks & Caicos Islands. Why go to Florida, the Dominican Republic, Cuba or Mexico when you can get a private island vacation villa located two minutes from the best beach in the world? This hits the market just right and is a huge support to local businesses, as well.”

Developer J. Kelly Sullivan stands in front of one of the Venetian Ridge Villa cottages.

Venetian Ridge Villas is a Caribbean cottage-styled condominium community of 39 fully equipped vacation villas. It is nestled along a hillside just off Leeward Highway in Providenciales, in the central part of the island west of Graceway IGA shopping center. Because it is not directly on the beach, rental rates are shockingly low on an island where bargains are few and far between. At the same time, everything that makes Provo such a desirable vacation destination is within easy driving distance—beaches, watersports, golf course, restaurants, nightlife—yet the five acre enclave is a quiet, tranquil place to relax away from the crowd.

Venetian Ridge Villas were originally design-built for the long-term extended stay rental market in the mid-2000s, when the economy was booming and there were long wait lists for prime rental properties. Kelly is proud that they maintained the best long-term occupancy rates on Provo. Since 2008, however, the overbuilt residential rental market has faltered and, ever the astute businessman, J. Kelly Sullivan, decided to cater to the “play crowd” instead of the “work crowd.”

The well-built and charming vacation villas, nestled in a tropical oasis with a pool and spa pavilion scheduled for completion in early summer, perfectly suit the value-conscious vacationer, family reunions and groups of up to 150 people attending weddings at beach resorts just minutes away.

From the moment you are greeted, you realize you are at home with a friendly and dedicated staff to assist with everything from concierge services to housekeeping. At approximately 600 sq. ft., each fully furnished vacation villa has two bedrooms, a living/dining area, fully equipped kitchen and bath with shower. Furnishings and fittings are good quality, and include an LED TV, high speed Internet, air conditioning and ceiling fans. There is even a small porch on which to catch the warm, fresh breezes and rich scents of the surrounding vegetation. Identical villas are available in a sister development called the Ridge Residences Inn. As Kelly explains, “The rates at the Inn are even lower, as the property is self-catering to those who may not need all the amenities of a vacationer. It is perfect for extended stay rentals from a few weeks for businesspeople to snowbirds who want an affordable place to get away for the winter.”

At approximately 600 sq. ft., each fully furnished Venetian Ridge Villa has everything a vacationer, short-term businessperson or “snowbird” needs to be comfortable.

Current plans for Sullivan’s Equinox group focus on One On Marlin, a four star, 110-unit, adults-only spa resort for singles and couples, now under construction on a large parcel of land to the west of the Venetian Ridge property. This gated vacation community is more upscale, with high-end, one-bedroom villa suites that are also affordably priced. Kelly explains, “One On Marlin is a central, but ‘off the grid’ enclave terraced on one side of a ‘nature valley.’ It is very private, contemporary and luxuriously affordable. Guest will book their vacation at One On Marlin for the sensory experience.”

At One On Marlin, 35 luxury villa suites are now built, surrounded by organic botanical gardens that rival the best at any beachfront resort. Once complete, the development will boast terraced, lagoon-styled pools connected with rock waterfalls, saltwater hot springs, a poolside lounge, nature trails and O2, a full service spa that will only open to private bookings for a maximum of six guests at a time.

As I toured the Venetian Ridge Villas grounds, two things especially appealed to me: the driveways and parking areas are newly paved (no muddy shoes) and the entire property seems to burst with an abundance of organic tropical fruit trees, flowers, shrubs and vegetable and herb beds, lending color, fragrance and authenticity to the visitor experience. Kelly says, “We are growing so many different species that it is hard to keep track!” There are three University-educated horticulturists on site, willing to nurture nearly any seed a visitor might bring. During our fantastical tour, I saw everything from plantain to papaya, mahogany to moringa, grape vine to guinep tree and Kelly even presented me with a fragrant pink rose plucked from a hardy bush.

Kelly is quick to point out that Venetian Ridge guests have ample opportunity to patronize local businesses, infusing growth into the economy. Most all rent cars or scooters, an easy way to visit any beach, from the most-frequented to the most-deserted. (All Provo beaches are free and open to the public.) Each vacation villa is equipped with beach chairs, umbrellas, coolers and BBQs. With the supermarket close by, visitors can choose to cook at home or visit the cornucopia of island eateries, taking advantage of nightly specials or entertainment as they desire.

The Venetian Ridge website will soon offer new “click, pick and book” vacation packages designed around what a guest wants and nothing more. These range from all-inclusive meal plans (with vouchers for participating restaurants) to “drivin’,” “golfin’,” and “divin’” options. The “Wedding Bells & Conch Shells” package can help brides save money in lodging for groups as large as 150 people; the same concept would apply for family reunions, dive clubs or incentive travel groups.

Folks with long-term financial savvy are also snapping up investment units at Venetian Ridge Villas and One On Marlin. Kelly explains that for less than $200,000, investors can purchase a vacation villa in the Caribbean. The properties will be operated as a lá carte, “just off the beach resorts,” without the restaurants. For the cost of most TCI resort condos, investors can buy multiple units, enjoy free, turn-key vacations “whenever forever,” with hassle-free management by Equinox the rest of the time. In fact, he guarantees investors a minimum 5.25% net average annualized return on investment for five years. Kelly boasts, “We have investors who own Grace Bay beachfront condos. They stay there and make their money here.” Management fees are the lowest of all resorts, condo fees are less than $300/month, and TCI still has no property taxes.

University-trained horticulturists Joenarie Ramoran and Jeselito Gayat help keep Venetian Ridge Villas a tropical oasis of organic fruit trees, plants and flowers.

Kelly’s goal for “Provo’s largest affordable vacation communities” is to achieve the highest occupancy levels in TCI. With a total of just over 200 bedrooms and the lowest rates around, once One On Marlin is complete, Kelly says, “We will have the largest inventory of room types with something for everyone regardless of age, lifestyle, or budget.”

An 18-year TCI resident and Belonger, Kelly runs a vertically integrated group of businesses in the building trade that span from BuildAll, a wholesale building contractor supply house, to Turks & Caicos Housing Company, a local construction company that has built over 140 buildings, and Equinox, a development and property management company. Kelly says, “I have had the pleasure of supplying materials and contractor services to so many people here through the years, but my passion has always been development. Land is my canvas. My preference is to complement as opposed to compete.” His key to keeping prices low and everything under control has been the vertical integration of the supply chain starting with the factory and ending with a positive guest experience.

Although J. Kelly Sullivan inherited the typically Canadian values of honesty, discipline and thrift from his father, he has an exotic side, too. After studying abroad in Italy during high school, Kelly, fascinated by all things Chinese, in 1984 made his way to China as an undergraduate student at top-ranked Fudan University. Kelly is quick to point out, “Although I am proud to call TCI my home, over the past 29 years I have travelled to all parts of China and lived there some 8 years to date.” (BuildAll has a small branch office in the major port city of Ningbo.) Fluent in both Italian and Mandarin Chinese, Kelly’s worldly exposure has cultured his own philosophies of life, as he embraces the “yin” and “yang” of the Occidental world.

In the vacation developments (and at home), this interest spills out into designing over-the-top spas, including the O1 spa-inspired pool which will open at Venetian Ridge in Summer 2013. Kelly explains, “This is all part of creating a healthy, harmonious environment for mind and body. Our guests love the simplicity.” O1 is being built on the south side of the property, canopied by large Royal Poinciana trees, bordered by a grove of papaya trees. It includes a seven-foot indigenous rock garden with water tumbling over a grotto into the depths of a stone-lined infiniti pool and a hot plunge surrounded by different varieties of banana and plantain. The outdoor shower is made from a specially crafted slab of granite from China, bordered by blue stone and green river rocks. It will include a private courtyard for massages and meditation rooms for personalized treatments from Spa Tropique. A more luxuriant version, O2, with a cutting-edge series of hot and cold air and water treatments, waterfalls and meditation pavilion, is planned for One On Marlin.

With Venetian Ridge Villas fully built, and only refurbishment work left to do on investor-purchased villas, Kelly’s boundless enthusiasm is now focused on the One On Marlin project. Obviously in his element, he says, “Being in real estate development is my passion. It’s where art meets science and I can exercise both my creativity and business acumen. I can’t wait to see what happens next!”

For more information, visit VenetianRidgeVillas.com or OneOnMarlin.com. For booking, call toll free: 877-941-3121.

By Lindsay McCann, Director, Morris Cottingham & Co., Ltd.

Nothing in his life became him like the leaving it. — “Macbeth” Macbeth, Act I, Scene 4

“ … I will instruct the Governor not to sign the Commencement Notice which would have brought in VAT on 1 April 2013” — Mark Simmonds MP, letter to the Premier and Leader of the Opposition, 25 February 2013

On one day a callow youth, striding righteously with cheery retinue in tow; at dawn the next, arrested summarily, bound, gagged, blindfolded and shot. Such was the ignominious fate of VAT in the TCI.

When the U.K. Minister for Africa, the Overseas Territories, Caribbean and International Energy transmitted the letter quoted above in late February to the leaders of both political parties, he put paid to months of intense rhetoric from the Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) regarding the inevitability of VAT and its supposed benefits to the TCI economy. He also set smartphones abuzz with the news, which spread virally and resulted in a palpable collective sigh of relief on the part of business owners and consumers across the country.

What happened?

The rapid about-face from VAT being trumpeted as fiscal hero to being consigned to scrap was stunning. What on earth happened? Why did Whitehall back down from its seemingly immutable policy position on VAT? It is unlikely merely to be the result of the UK Government succumbing to the political pressure applied by the TCI legislature. The FCO had steadfastly refused to do so until a month before the implementation date and showed no signs of weakening— indeed, given its extensive residual power enshrined in the Turks and Caicos Constitution Order 2011, it had every reason not to succumb.

The questions remaining open are whether there were larger problems with the implementation of VAT, perhaps due to insufficient time allowed for preparation, and whether the prospect of having to shepherd further amendments through a hostile legislature proved too great a hill to climb. Politics being what it is, we are unlikely to know the exact reason and will be left to speculate.

It is clear from a cursory review of the history of the Value Added Tax Ordinance 2012 that it was drafted precipitously and without attention to detail. A hurried amendment was required to fix many sophomoric drafting errors and another extensive amendment was in the works prior to implementation to repair the remaining holes. A glaring example of such a hole concerned international carriers of goods that were clearly intended to be exempt from VAT. Although “international transport” was defined extensively in the Ordinance, the law nowhere contained an exemption for such businesses, even after it was amended the first time. This means that with less than one month until the implementation date, international courier businesses had no idea whether or not they would be required to register for VAT.

Given the manner in which the legislation was drafted, one has cause to question the entire VAT exercise, including the depth and intellectual rigor of the analysis of the economic impact it would have on the TCI economy. Was the case for VAT simply that it “should work” in TCI because it has worked elsewhere? Again, all we can do is speculate.

It is only sensible as well to consider the prudence of having rigidly pursued implementation of this tax in light of the fact that on November 9, 2012, every member of the TCI Parliament was elected on a platform of steadfast opposition to VAT.

Perhaps the sensible course of action would have been either to implement the VAT fully before November, 2012, thereby providing valuable political cover for the newly elected government, or to have turned the implementation debate over to the TCI Parliament upon its reconstitution. It seems odd, in retrospect, that Whitehall did not pursue either option and instead remained steadfast in insisting that VAT be implemented by an unwilling parliament on an apoplectic electorate.

There has been a setback, in terms of time wasted, due to this about-face in policy. Considerable new analysis will be required before the proposal of new revenue measures and clearly, those must be undertaken in the fullness of time, in an unhurried manner with a view to the best interests of the people of Turks & Caicos. A considerable investment of public money and political and human capital was made to implement VAT. All that is lost now and TCI residents and tourists must bear the cost. The hard lessons learned from this exercise need to be borne in mind when considering the further fiscal legislation that will be required to satisfy the UK Government that TCI is able to meet its financial obligations.

It is a credit to both parties in government that, despite their differences, they cooperated to demonstrate universal democratic opposition to VAT. There is no doubt that this coordinated approach was vital in eliminating VAT and one hopes that this approach to important issues will continue in future. One clear result of the failure of VAT is that the UK Government has shown that it is not immune to democratically applied pressure.

Although Whitehall came late to the acceptance that it could not force a tax on an unwilling population with a universally opposed parliament, it did, to its credit, read the tea leaves correctly and took the politically difficult step of backing down. “I cannot and will not allow a reversal of the progress that has been made by the Interim Government, which is a vital component for the reputation of TCI and its people.”

In the scheme of things, this is only a minor loss of face for the UK Government, which remains firmly in control of fiscal policy in TCI. While he was consigning VAT to history in his 25 February letter, the minister also emphatically underlined, with the statement above, the ongoing fiscal obligations of the TCI Government and his commitment to ensuring they were met. The death of VAT was a useful occasion for the FCO to reinforce the fiscal objectives TCI will be required to meet in the coming years. There is no uncertainty regarding the determination of the UK Government to set TCI on a path to fiscal responsibility. This certainly will remain a difficult political issue for any Government to wrestle with.

VAT, the sequel

Neither party could credibly propose anything similar to VAT again in the near future, after having fought so strenuously against VAT. However, with the demise of VAT, the twin spectres of income and property tax return to haunt us, and there will be considerable motivation, now, to implement one or both of those measures to accomplish what is required by Whitehall and the Turks and Caicos Islands Constitution Order 2011.

Concluding thoughts

The demise of VAT was met with universal relief. We may never know why, precisely, the legislative effort failed so utterly. Its timely end does, however, presage difficult days ahead for the TCI Government in adapting fiscal policy to ensure the very heavy load now imposed on the country is borne equitably and to the satisfaction of the UK Cabinet.

Lindsay McCann is a director of Morris Cottingham & Co. Ltd., an accounting and audit firm based in Grand Turk. Contact him at mlm@morriscottingham.com.

By Kathleen Wood, Department of Environment & Maritime Affairs ~ Photos By Amdeep Sanghera, TCI Turtle Project

For ten endangered sea turtles—six green turtles and four hawksbills—it was a long journey from a fisher’s boat back to the sea, but on January 30, 2013, they finally swam home, thanks to the combined efforts of DEMA, the TCI Turtle Project, the Department of Agriculture and Bugaloo’s Restaurant in Five Cays.

DEMA Conservation Officers watch one of the large female sea turtles make her way back to the sea.

Over the past several months, the Department of Environment & Maritime Affairs (DEMA), the TCI Turtle Project and the Department of Agriculture have been fielding reports about sea turtles being kept in a pond at Bugaloo’s Restaurant in Five Cays. Upon investigation, it was discovered that the restaurant was purchasing the turtles from fishers in order to keep them from being harvested for food.

The harvest of sea turtles for food is an important cultural activity and has been for many generations in the Turks & Caicos. The TCI has a legal turtle fishery. The Fisheries Protection Ordinance prohibits the taking of turtles smaller than 20 inches and/or 20 pounds; however, this means the larger and reproductively-valuable turtles can be legally taken. There is a strong belief that TCI’s nesting turtle population has been declining over the past few decades, likely due to the historical harvest and the present-day fishery.

Since 2008, the TCI Turtle Project has been working closely with local fishers, communities and government agencies to develop a new turtle fishery management plan that will give protection to the large, breeding adult turtles found in TCI waters, while still respecting the right of Turks Islanders to harvest this important resource. The project has been extremely successful in its aim, and the culmination of the TCI Turtle Project’s efforts will be revised legislation that protects TCI’s remnant nesting population of breeding adult turtles and those from elsewhere, as well as juveniles. By working with local fishers, the TCI Turtle Project has been able to achieve these revisions with the participation and approval of all affected stakeholders.

Although it is legal to fish for turtles in TCI, and the few that are taken each year does not threaten the population, the idea of a turtle fishery can be a hard cookie to swallow for some. Thus, Bugaloo’s Restaurant, thinking they were performing a good deed, purchased the turtles from fishers.

Sea turtles are migratory animals, often covering thousands of miles within a few months’ time. They require vast amounts of open space and subsist on a specialized diet of sea grasses, sponges and soft corals. While intentions were good, Bugaloo’s Restaurant did not have suitable facilities, food supply or the specialized training needed to adequately care for the turtles.

Wanting to do the right thing, Bugaloo’s Restaurant worked with DEMA, the TCI Turtle Project and the Department of Agriculture to come to an agreement to release the turtles from the pond. Bugaloo’s will convert their pond to freshwater, and DEMA will donate some rescued freshwater turtles and tilapia to their pond. The freshwater turtles are much more suited to life in a pond, and the sea turtles will be back in the open ocean where they belong.

On a balmy and clear afternoon, Amdeep Sanghera of the TCI Turtle Project and DEMA Conservation Officers, Robert (“Mike”) Hanchell, Trevor Williams and Calvin (“Carl”) Been rolled up their trousers and waded into the murky waters of Bugaloo’s pond to capture the captive turtles for the last time in their potential 100-year lives.

Ten sea turtles were rescued from their well-meaning stay in the pond at Bugaloo’s Restaurant. They were transported to the Bight Park for measuring, tagging and releasing.

Eight small turtles, ranging in size from 15 to 25 inches, were easy targets and were swiftly removed with a hand-held net. Two older, larger females of breeding age did not prove as easy to capture. Measuring as much as 35 inches and weighing approximately 150 pounds, they carefully eluded capture, until an effort of collective might was able to seize the goliaths and heave them out of the pond.

When the rescue operation was completed, the turtles were transported to the Bight Park for measuring, tagging and releasing. One of the large breeding female turtles had been injured when she was captured by a fisher, and had a large puncture wound in one of her flippers. During transportation from the pond to the park, the injury opened up and started bleeding. Fortunately, Government Veterinarians Dr. Mark Butler and Dr. Lance Dowridge were close at hand and arrived at the scene to suture and sterilize the injury. Once the bleeding was staunched and all the turtles were tagged and measured, the team and a small group of residents and visiting tourists carried the turtles to the beach.

The natural instinct of a wild animal to seek out its habitat is a marvel to behold. The turtles needed no direction or encouragement. The small gathering of humans held their breath as the animals eagerly scooted themselves across the sand, with a mixture of emotions ranging from awe to joy and relief. A few tears were shed.

As the sun set over Grace Bay, a long ordeal was over, and ten weary souls paddled through the breaking waves, gaining momentum and speed within the first few feet of the shore and then darting towards freedom into the open sea. We wish them bon voyage on their journey home.

Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, Caicos Pine Recovery Project Manager

The Turks & Caicos Islands have nine species of native plants that are found nowhere else on Earth —they are unique to, or in biological terms endemic to the Turks & Caicos Islands. Of these nine plants, seven are apparent in their habitats or at least well-known—and two are fairly small and obscure.

The endemic Turks & Caicos heather has a high profile as our National Flower. The Caicos Encyclia orchid grows tall and fragrant each summer in its habitat. The silvery silverbush is not necessarily an outgoing plant, but it is fairly common throughout the Salt Islands and the Ambergris Cays. The Lucayan pear cactus is rarely encountered anywhere but East Caicos, but its status as an endemic and even as a valid species is terribly doubtful. The stipitate dog-strangle vine is found only on North Caicos, but is fairly frequent and somewhat weedy there. The Caroline’s Stenandrium is rare but well-studied, and one of our two endemic buttonbushes, the Britton’s buttonbush, is abundant on coastal areas of Middle Caicos and well-mapped. However, two endemic plants evaded detection for decades, even during intense biodiversity fieldwork.

A minuscule forest of slender-stemmed pepper-grass, grows well out of reach of grazing mammals in Grand Turk’s North Wells area.

The capillary buttonbush, described in 1978 from South Caicos and then lost to science for 30 years, was rediscovered by Melanie Visaya and B Naqqi Manco during a Turks & Caicos National Trust seed collection foray on South Caicos. Later exploration in 2010 with the Department of Environment & Maritime Affairs (DEMA) and Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew led to its discovery in East Caicos for the first time. Its seeds have been collected for indefinite conservation storage in Kew’s Millennium Seed Bank, a facility where seeds are kept as an insurance policy against plant extinctions in case of catastrophic events of any kind. The majority of our endemic plants’ seeds have been collected and are safely stored, but not all of the plants had been found in order to collect seeds.

A missing-plant mystery that persisted for decades was the presence of slender-stemmed pepper-grass Lepidium filicaule, first described in 1911, collected last in 1975 and then not seen since. Subsequent searches for the plant had proven unproductive. However, during a seed collection field trip to Grand Turk made by DEMA in November 2012, a small population of young specimens of slender-stemmed pepper-grass was discovered near Gun Hill. Additional forays confirmed the presence of the plant on nearby hills and in the area of Breezy Brae and around North Wells, where it was found in flower and fruit.

The DEMA team that made the discovery comprised B Naqqi Manco, Caicos Pine Recovery Project Manager; Jodi Johnson, Environmental Officer, and Peter Lightbourne, Maintenance Supervisor. The identity of the plant would normally be confirmed by the form of flowers and fruits, but the population found was all too young to be fertile. The identity was instead confirmed by leaf shape and the flavour of the leaves—pepper-grasses are true to their names and the slender-stemmed pepper-grass has a milder, sweeter flavour than the common widespread garden weed, wild pepper-grass. (Please note, never taste-sample plants without a qualified botanist to confirm identity!)

The slender-stemmed pepper-grass was later found with flowers and fruits in the North Wells area, and was collected to make an herbarium voucher specimen. In December 2012, seed collections of slender-stemmed pepper-grass were made so that the plant will be protected both within TCI (in DEMA’s Native Plant Biodiversity Conservation Nurseries) and in long term conservation storage at RBG Kew’s Millennium Seed Bank in the UK, a facility that serves as a “Noah’s Ark” for plants.

But where has the slender-stemmed pepper-grass been hiding for the last 37 years? Communication with the Millennium Seed Bank has yielded a suggestion—it is not unknown for some Caribbean plants to exist through most time as seeds, and grow up in abundance only after major rain events (such as Hurricane Sandy in September). A mint-like Salvia endemic to Grand Cayman seems to have the same behaviour, according to the Millennium Seed Bank. If this is the case, it is the perfect candidate for long-term conservation storage.

It may not be much to look at, but the Turks & Caicos Islands endemic slender-stemmed pepper-grass is our very own unique plant and DEMA is working toward ensuring its survival, along with each of TCI’s endemic plant species, now that all have been accounted for!

By  Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos by Christine Morden, Paradise Photography

Coconut trees are so common in the Caribbean as to be almost invisible, especially to longtime residents. If you have them in your yard, they quickly turn from delight to nuisance when the bulky leaves “molt” and the heavy shells drop without warning. It took the combination of a transplanted Belgian and visiting skin care specialist to recognize that the “tree of life” was growing in the Turks & Caicos. And, to discover that one of nature’s most beneficial oils was literally here for the pressing.

Kristof and Yolanda Lingier believe in the value of coconut oil. I wouldn’t call them fanatics, but health-conscious devotees who are well aware of the myriad benefits the oil offers. They’re sharing this awareness through their all-natural, handmade, ecologically ethical line of skin care products, “Rejouvenance by Provo Line.” The oils, soaps and scented candles all include virgin coconut oil, cold-pressed from local coconuts.

After hearing rave reviews for the products and Yolanda’s associated skin care therapies, I paid the couple a visit at Alamanda, their lovely retreat in Long Bay, to learn more. A native of Belgium, Kristof came south for a job in logistics and supply chain management for Tropical Shipping. Yolanda, born and raised in Europe, had spent much of her adult life as a skin care specialist, catering to the famous faces in St. Barts. The couple met when she vacationed in Provo, and it was a blessed merging of complementary minds and skills.

Kristof is in charge of production and design. He combs the yards of friends, neighbors, resorts and rental villas to cull the large, mature dusky-yellow shells. Surprisingly, he doesn’t have to go far to collect a couple hundred, enough for a bi-monthly batch of oil. It takes a few whacks with a machete to crack open the husk to reach the shaggy brown nut inside. He carefully cuts the nut in half, scoops out the white “meat” and grinds the meat with the coconut water. Next, he uses a wine press and cheesecloth to press out the milk and cream. After about 40 hours of fermentation, the rich “virgin” oil rises to the top, where he skims it off and filters it seven times to ensure purity. Kristof says this “wet milling” process yields one to two ounces of the highest quality oil per nut; it’s a small yield compared to the quicker, easier “dry milling” process, which uses chemicals to extract the oil from copra (dried coconut meat), but leaves chemical residue in the oil.

This precious oil forms the basis of the Rejouvenance products. Prior to moving to Provo, Yolanda founded the highly successful Rejouvenance Spa in San Francisco, so she was well aware of the kinds of products that appeal to the spa cognoscenti. Infusing other essential oils and exotic botanicals into the coconut oil produces massage oils, skin moisturizers, insect repelling oils and hair and skin care oils with amazing scents. Yolanda says “Island Blend,” with its flowery notes of Plumeria (better known as Frangipani) and Tahitian Flowers, is most popular, although each of the scented oils (Satsuma, Coco, Coconut-Lime and the new “Caicos Splash”) have their following. The couple has also blended signature scents for resorts, including The Hartling Group and Coral Gardens.

Because coconut oil has a natural SPF of 4, they used it to create a “reef-safe” SPF 30 sun block that became the Official Sunscreen of Provo’s annual “Race for the Conch” Eco SeaSwim, an event which attracts competitors from around the globe.

Yolanda also used her extensive experience in skin care therapy (especially focused on smoothing blemishes, minimizing aging and repairing sun damage) to create a unique and all-natural line of cleansers, toners, moisturizers and repair serums. She generously gave me a sample to try, and I can attest they are nourishing and refreshing, with a soothing aroma.

TCI model Melissa Johnson displays one of the Rejouvenance coconut oil-based products.

Not surprisingly, the Rejouvenance products were soon picked up by some of TCI’s most exclusive spas (Shambhala Spa on Parrot Cay and Anani Spa at Grace Bay Club) as well as the spas at Seven Stars Resort, Coral Gardens and the Beach House. They are also sold in local shops including Art Provo, Caicu Naniki, Framing Grace, Hidden Treasures, Local Cullah, Maison Creole and the Handmade in TCI Wholesale Depot.

Besides using a manual (non-electric) pressing process, Kristof is quick to note that no part of the coconut is wasted. Neatly cut shells are used for packaging scented candles and the all-natural soap products, with the remainder used in the BBQ grill. The husks, he says, make great garden mulch.

The ambitious pair currently operate as an artisanal DIY business, blending and bottling the products and even designing and printing labels, with plans for silk screen printing that will allow them to personalize products for resorts. Marketing is mostly word-of-mouth, with the first overseas order just coming in! Future plans include producing custom coconut oil based amenities (shampoo, conditioner, body wash) for resorts.

But that’s not the only gem tucked away in this Long Bay oasis. From a garden-surrounded room, Yolanda offers a full range of cutting-edge spa therapies and skin treatments that reflect three decades of expertise in the field and utilize all the latest equipment. She admits that her resident clientele is primarily interested in result-oriented clinical skin care to repair years of sun exposure. She also creates custom-made, mineral-based make-up, moisturizers and sunscreens, while also employing her make-up arts for weddings at the exclusive resorts. Because her treatment room is comfortable and discrete, she often treats visitors who prefer a more personal atmosphere to that of a resort.

Kristof explained that the coconut palm is called “Tree of Life” in many tropical countries because it provides food, drink and shelter. Here in the TCI, the term more likely refers to the blessings of long, healthy life with the youthful appearance many of us seek.

For more information, visit www.provo-line.com or www.skintinuouscare.com. Alamanda Spa is located on Man O War Road in Long Bay.

By Chris Morvan

In the Turks & Caicos Islands in the early part of the 21st century, the only real “industry” is tourism. What the country produces at the moment is intangible, consisting largely of wonderful memories. But go back just a generation and you’ll find that some of these Islands did produce a commodity, a thing you could hold in your hand and say “this is what we make.” That commodity was something that can still be found in every home in every country: salt.

Basic, inexpensive, unglamorous salt. It’s everywhere, and it is taken completely for granted. But it doesn’t appear by magic, and when Salt Cay and Grand Turk were world leaders in its production it was a tough business to be in.

It was back-breaking toil to rake salt in the relentless sun.

Tough, that is, for the workers who spent their days in hard physical labour. Even after the original source of workers—slavery—had been abolished, conditions were bad due to the very nature of the process. If the production of salt relies on the sun evaporating water to leave salt crystals and these then have to be collected and transported to the docks and loaded onto ships, it follows that the work, too, was carried out in the fierce glare that we’re encouraged to stay out of these days for fear of dehydration, skin cancer and other health risks.

What the slaves had to endure is almost unthinkable to us today—and we probably don’t know the half of it. What we do know, though, comes from sources including the writings of Mary Prince, a slave who was brought to Grand Turk from Bermuda and suffered here before finally making her way to London and freedom.

The slaves were housed in primitive wooden buildings that have been likened to cattle sheds. They slept on the floor or on hard wooden benches. The principal health problem seems to have been sores on their feet caused by working without footwear and the salt preventing sores and wounds from healing. The spartan conditions in the slaves’ accommodation meant that those with such wounds could never get comfortable because there was nothing soft to rest their feet on, unless they managed to bring in some dry grass or other vegetation. The effects of the relentless sun beating down on them day after day we can only imagine, and there was no eye protection.

The dominance of the trade is immediately summed up by the name Salt Cay: that little island might not have had much going for it in the general scheme of things, but what it did have were low-lying areas which flooded with seawater. Some entrepreneur put two and two together and came up with four in big, white capital letters.

It was Bermudans who first spotted the potential of the Turks Islands in this respect. Their own country didn’t have the physical layout—the topography—for salt production, but these dry little places, not far away and at that time unpopulated, did. The Bermudans began to visit the Islands and by the mid-1670s, Grand Turk and Salt Cay were in the export business. At first there wasn’t much competition and the merchants used what was naturally available, but soon efforts were made to increase efficiency and productivity. So began the process of giving some structure to what was happening. Low walls were built to enclose the salinas and create rectangular ponds. Gates for controlling the flow of water (sluice gates) were installed, with primitive pumps (originally operated by hand and then powered by windmills) to move the liquid from one area to another as it became more concentrated via evaporation until there was nothing left but salt. Then it was a case of collecting the salt, raking it into piles and hauling it in carts drawn by donkeys away from the salinas and back to the sea from where it had come. But now it was crystallised and protected in bags, being stored if necessary in salthouses until a ship arrived to take it away. The bags of salt were loaded onto “lighters”—smaller craft that could get in close to the shore, as there were no deep water harbors and the ships that were to make the voyages to other countries had to anchor well offshore.

Donkey-drawn carts brought salt from the salinas to the dock areas to be loaded on ships for transport elsewhere.

Back on land, since the object of the exercise was to remove water from the mixture, rain was obviously the enemy—the last thing anyone wanted was for a heap of the finished product to be turned back to mush or even liquid, so it is no coincidence that the salt-producing islands have few trees. In addition to the relationship between trees and rainfall (forests can produce rain and rain nourishes trees), you certainly didn’t want leaves blowing into the salinas and storage areas and having to be picked out of the goods.

A story often told is of the designing of the Turks & Caicos’s first flag, which included mounds of salt. Back in England as the design lay around in an office, someone, presumably with no idea where the Islands were situated, took a white pile for an igloo and helpfully inked in a door.

The golden years were through the 19th century and into the 20th, with a foreboding hiatus during the Second World War, when nothing was exported and therefore no revenue came in. Oswaldo Ariza, a mine of local information, remembers how salt crystals would become mixed with the chalky rock used for improving Grand Turk’s dusty tracks and created “diamond roads” that sparkled in the sun.

The fortunes of the Turks & Caicos had been built on salt, and by the time the hostilities had ended, the world had changed. Salt was now being mined, either in the manner of coal, with labourers underground wielding picks and shovels, or by flooding seams until salt had been dissolved and pumping it out that way. One thing was for sure, as Mr. Ariza remembers it; many of the traditional markets for Turks Islands salt were now either making their own or buying it from other sources. At the end of the war, all the stockpiled salt went to, of all places, Japan.

Carl Coverley may now be retired, but at one time, from the late 1950s until the industry ground to a halt in Grand Turk in 1965 (Salt Cay soldiered on for another 10 years), he was a crusher operator, responsible for breaking up big, hard lumps of salt that had formed as it dried or as it sat in mounds and gravity compacted it. Mr. Coverley worked on “fishery salt”—the kind that was used to preserve fish in the old-fashioned way that had enabled fishermen to travel from as far away as the UK to the rich waters of Newfoundland, Canada, and take their catch perhaps thousands of miles to be sold or traded for other goods. The other type was table salt, which was required to be in a more delicate, neat state.

As we sit outside his house on Grand Turk, with the Bohio Dive Resort in the distance, Mr. Coverley reminisces about the three-masted schooners that did the bulk of the work between Grand Turk and Canada. The names of colleagues and notable industry figures come back to him and he recalls a time when salt baron Ted Frith thought he would have to cancel one entire consignment because a shaft had broken on the shift. Carl’s colleague Ernest Jones saved the day with his engineering skills, declaring that he could fix it there and then—and he did.

Mr. Coverley recalls that salt mounds could be as high as 25 feet (nearly 8 meters) and photographs suggest they could have been bigger than that. Although a crust formed on the outside to give them a little stability, there were occasionally horrible accidents. Even without such events, it wasn’t until the final few years of the industry that salt workers began to wear rubber boots, or at least “wompers” (crude footwear made from old car tyres). “And you could catch hell from the salt, it was so bright in your eyes, like a welding torch,” Mr. Coverley says with a shake of his head.

Even as recently as the early 1960s, the public was woefully underinformed about health and safety issues, and excessive consumption of salt harmed the health of customers just as producing it harmed the workers. The link between salt taken in or on food and high blood pressure might be drummed into us now, but back then all our parents and grandparents were concerned with was whether they needed another handful to make the food taste better.

Mr. Coverley and his fellows were on relatively big money at that time: £3.10s (just under $5) a week for five days from 6 AM to 4 PM plus Saturday morning. If that doesn’t sound too impressive, the crusher operator can remember a few years earlier when it had been seven shillings (much less than one dollar), so it must indeed have seemed like they were going up in the world.

Sadly, modern developments in the whirlwind of the 20th century spelled the end for the local salt trade. As a preservative it was rendered obsolete by advances in canning and refrigeration, along with high speed air transport, which could get perishables from source to market in a matter of hours rather than weeks. There was, Mr. Coverley recalls, the possibility of selling out to Morton’s, the international salt giant that has rolled with the punches, adapted to change and is still very much alive. But when that company came calling, the fragmented local salt community—a salina here, a shed there —failed to unite and Morton’s went elsewhere.

All that really remains of this part of the Islands’ heritage is the memory—and even that is fading as the characters who were part of the story disappear into history.

The Salt House on Grand Turk is modeled on a typical salt storage building. It contains extensive information boards telling the story of the industry.

More information about the TCI’s salt industry can be found at the Turks & Caicos National Museum and the Salt House, both in Grand Turk. The National Museum, the country’s wide-ranging treasury of information and artefacts, is housed in historic Guinep House on Front Street. The Salt House was built at the same time as the cruise center as a focus for tourists interested in this aspect of the island’s history. It is in the style of a typical salt shed, sits at the edge of a salina and contains extensive information boards telling the story of the industry and of Mary Prince. Also, along with the tourist merchandise, there are modern salt-based products made in Salt Cay.

Many thanks for their help with this article to: Oswaldo Ariza, Carl Coverley, Phyllis Hayward and John Hilton.

By Bill Hocking

“I salute—from my space helmet—the Range Rats, the unsung heroes of the space race to the future.” Buzz Aldrin, Apollo XI, 1969

On a clear St. Patrick’s Day, March 17, 1958 at 7:15 AM, the first Vanguard missile was successfully launched into a highly stable orbit. The satellite it carried aloft, only about six inches in diameter and weighing about three pounds, has circled the earth over 300,000 times, travelled more than 8 billion miles, and is expected to orbit for 2,000 years! On the other hand, the Russian satellite Sputnik I lasted only three months before plunging back to earth.

The tiny Vanguard spacecraft is the oldest man-made object in space. Vanguard required a new launch vehicle that could produce a radio signal detectable on the ground. It was the first solar-powered satellite and its tracking data ultimately revealed to surprised geophysicists that the earth is not perfectly round but bulges a bit, like a pear. These developments were all firsts, and they were accomplished in 30 months!

This “Minitrack” station near the Grand Turk lighthouse was Bill Hocking’s assignment in 1958.

I joined the Vanguard team just months after President Eisenhower announced Project Vanguard. It planned to put the world’s first artificial earth satellite into orbit as part of the US participation in the International Geophysical Year (IGY), July 1957–December 1958, an 18-month “year.” Our mission was to launch a satellite before the end of IGY, track it, prove it reached orbit, and perform at least one scientific experiment. I was involved in building the tracking sites around the world to support this effort.

Of course we weren’t starting from scratch! At the end of World War II the US captured about 100 V2 rockets at the Nazi’s Rocket Research and Development Base at Peenemünde. These rockets were shipped to the Army Ordnance Proving Ground at White Sands, New Mexico, for testing and rocket research. A system known as the “Single-Axis Phase-Comparison Angle-Tracking Unit,” was developed to track them. It eventually evolved into the “Minitrack” system to collect data on the third stage rockets of the early American Vanguard launches. The men who built and manned these stations all over the world, often under difficult conditions, became known as “Range Rats.”

For me, it all began in 1954 when I graduated from college with a degree in physics, received a commission from the US Navy, and got married. In 1955, I had orders to report to the Naval Research Laboratory (NRL) in Washington, D.C. as Personnel Officer and Registration Publication Officer.

One of my first duties with Vanguard was to travel to the island of Grand Turk, where we had built a small Minitrack tracking site to support the early launches. The data from Grand Turk determined if we had achieved orbit and what orbit the satellite was in.

When I first arrived, scuba-diving, snorkeling, water skiing and swimming were the fun activities of the day. A routine welcoming gesture for all new arrivals to the island was to be invited to water ski in front of the Conch Club. I had never water skied in my life. Be not afraid! There were those eager to teach me, and so on a beautiful sun-filled day I was taken out to sea. After falling two or three times I managed to stay upright with a degree of stability. When it was clear I was in fact water skiing, the driver of the boat headed for a nearby pier used by incoming ships to bring supplies to the island. When I was about 50 feet or so from the pier, the boat took a sharp left turn at full speed. Of course I went down. No problem. It took a few moments to “rescue” me and away we went. Later that day, several of the old timers took me to the end of the pier. I counted 12 sharks feasting on the ship’s refuse. I had, that day, officially become a “Range Rat.”

Grand Turk’s South Base in 1958, with the pier mentioned in this story behind the supply ship in the background.

Vanguard II was successfully launched on February 17, 1958. Vanguard III, the last to be launched within the IGY time frame, lifted off on September 18, 1959, just three months after the birth of Eilleen, my second daughter. The launch was successful, placing the satellite into an orbit which was estimated to last at least 50 years. I didn’t wait that long. I got the next plane home to be with my son and two daughters, all under the age of four.

My children grew up hearing about my travels to Grand Turk. Fifty-five years later they were still hearing about my island in the Caribbean. In January 2012, I decided to return one last time. I wasn’t sure exactly why, but I needed to return. I think the feeling was that I needed to make a kind of retreat to the place where so much of my youthful energy was invested. My daughters, Karen and Eilleen, decided that they needed to go with me to ensure my safe return. What does a father say or do in a situation like this?

It was mid-day on May 7, 2012, when we landed on the 3,000 foot runway of the JAGS McCartney International Airport on Grand Turk. Fifty-five years ago, the larger Military Air Transport Service aircraft had to connect with the edge of the much smaller airstrip and brake mightily to prevent going into the water on the far side of the island. Looking out the window as you approach Grand Turk you see nothing but rising water. Your prayer is, “May the runway rise up to meet you!” We disembarked, got into our rented car, drove on the wrong side of the road, and began our journey.

My daughters and I drove around the island on the way to our cottage by the sea. Not surprisingly, after the passage of almost 60 years everything appeared to be new and different. We were staying on the northwest side of the island at Corktree Beach, west of North Creek. We drove through Cockburn Town observing the children in their uniforms going home after school, walking along the roadside along with the wild donkeys and occasional cow. We arrived at the fenced-off beach cottage and noticed that we had to get out of the car to open a gate to drive into the driveway. Of course we left the gate open and by the time we left for dinner, we counted three donkeys, two cows and what appeared to be a Texas steer in the front yard. The biggest one eyed us intensely, so we waited. Dinner was a little late that night. Karen was assigned the duty of gatekeeper for the week.

We drove the entire island looking for some remains of the Minitrack tracking site. I could think of several places where the site was located but I couldn’t be sure. Driving to the north end of the island about a half mile from the Lighthouse on the left side, I noticed what appeared to be the remains of our Minitrack antenna system. We walked several hundred yards to the footings and took pictures but I have yet to verify that this was the spot.

On several occasions my daughters and I went shopping for food, gas and water. (I have a history of limiting my shopping to the fundamentals.) I remember on one occasion shopping at Cee’s Superstore and at the checkout counter we were served by a beautiful young lady who was very kind to us. I remember thinking of the possibility that I had met her grandfather in the 1950s. He would have been in his twenties, and like me, would have been living his life for his family.

I recalled my own grandfather (born in 1857) and wondered about her grandfather and the life he led. My grandfather’s family was getting ready for the Civil War that ravaged our country. Her grandfather no doubt was involved in the collection of the Island’s main product at that time. In the mid-1800s, Grand Turk was a major supplier of salt for the British Empire. My imagination linked the three centuries together—the 19th century culture and way of life interfacing with the 21st century technology. When my granddaughter is my age, 82, the year will be 2079. What wonders will be guiding her life toward the end of our new century?

We visited the Victoria Library, the National Museum, the Grand Turk Lighthouse, ate at the Osprey Beach Hotel and Bohio Resort restaurants and even ordered a take-home pizza from the Mookie Pookie Pizza Palace. We observed the inner workings of Cockburn Town at night on a hot Monday evening. The sounds and scenes of the surrounding community indicated what real living on the island is all about.

As near as I can tell, the Grand Turk Cruise Center is the location of the Conch Club of the former U.S. Air Force Base back in the 1950s. We had our club right on the beach where the large pier exists today. Between launches, we “lived” at that beach and club. We watched sunsets with undiminished awe. It is hard to believe that over 20,000 sunsets have spanned the years.

Eilleen and I attended the 9:00 service on Sunday, May 13, Mother’s Day, at Saint Mary’s Anglican Church (built in 1823). Rector Mark Kendall led us in prayer and song—lots of song. It was glorious to experience the joy of the Islanders. I had the impression that after a long, hot week of island living, this was the place where they could celebrate life together and praise God in their own fashion. I had the sense that the spirit of the Islanders, hundreds of years in formation, came forward and displayed itself in all its glory. The meaning and purpose of life becomes clear and reinforced and nourished during a Sunday morning service like the one we experienced. All attending gave a gift to me and my daughter that will be long remembered.

I am so blessed that my two daughters wanted to travel with me on my last trip to the island of my youth, the island that was so important to me in my 20s, and the island that represented the excitement of being a part of the evolving Space Program. We walked the beaches, we were a part of the sunsets, we laughed, and perhaps wept a bit over times and events past. I rushed home 55 years ago to diapers and all the rest of it. On this trip, I was grateful to have my two fifty-some-year-old daughters close by.

I want to say thank you to all who have walked with me along one of the greatest adventures anyone has ever experienced. I salute those of you still around who were on this island when Project Vanguard was first organized and space exploration was just beginning. You and your island supported the launching of America’s first satellites and the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo launches with Down Range Tracking. I am fortunate to have met and to have worked with you. In my 32 year space career, I considered my time on Grand Turk to be the most exciting.

I cannot imagine what my life would have been like had I not been involved in the space effort. It was fun and exciting to bring back to my children stories and pictures of distant lands and especially the beautiful images of Grand Turk. I was always excited to go to MY island when it was time to support a launch and even more excited when it was time to come back home. How proud to be an American, how lucky to have worked with the British, how honored to be a member of the NASA team. Those of you who have walked this journey with me know the looks of awe and the respect received from people all over the world when they discovered that you are a member of the team that put a man on the moon, helped create new technologies around the world, and helped merge the cultures of the 19th and 20th centuries, bringing all of this to our present 21st century. My best wishes to all my good friends from Grand Turk and thank you for being a part of the dream.

By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos By Nancy Gargano

When I first moved to Providenciales 20 years ago, many folks used scooters to get from Point A to Point B. There was little traffic, fewer people and places, and life was a lot more laid back. However, as the roads deteriorated and the pace stepped up, scooter travel seemed to fade away. Today, I notice a renaissance of these distinctive, open-air vehicles, largely the result of one of the island’s newest transportation companies, Paradise Scooters and Auto.

It is no longer uncommon to see a single or group of scooter-riders skimming along the now-paved roadways. It makes sense again, both economically and environmentally, as well as being the ideal way to truly experience this “Beautiful by Nature” country. With a warm, sunny climate a given and most of the Islands’ roadways smooth and paved, scooter travel is fun again. Riders can feel the breeze in their hair, sun on their face and smell the salty tang of the sea, as well as experience the full effect of the turquoise sea and lush tropical bush, occasionally punctuated with the bright bloom of flowers.

This eye-catching “Breast Cancer Awareness” themed scooter is one of the Paradise Scooters and Auto fleet that promises to revolutionize Provo’s roadways.

Paradise Scooters was the brainchild of the Gargano family. Having brought their own scooters with them when they moved to Provo, they quickly learned to love “scooting in paradise.” It was hard to ignore the interest they drew from not only their friends but the island population when they zipped around in their scooters. (Especially attention-getting is their limited edition, pink Breast Cancer Awareness scooter!)

Their plan was to bring a reputable scooter dealership to TCI that would offer an alternate, affordable, energy efficient and fun mode of transportation not only for visitors, but to the people who live and work in TCI. Staunch believers in the need for “green” solutions to the planet’s woes, the decision was made and Paradise Scooters became a reality.

Rosa Gargano was more than thrilled to be part of the family endeavor. From her first visit to St. Thomas as a teenager, she thought the tropics were heaven on earth. Now, her “Caribbean dream” has come true! In December 2012, her family, along with local business partners, opened Paradise Scooters and Auto in Grace Bay Plaza, across from Regent Village in Grace Bay.

Paradise Scooters sells and rents both Vespa scooters, the “Mercedes” of the scooter world, and their custom-manufactured Paradise model, (call it the “Toyota”), no less dependable, but with a lower price tag. The shiny vehicles are sturdy, well-built and safe, available in either 150 or 125 cc for good acceleration and speed and all their scooters can accommodate two riders.

As gas prices on-island approach $7.00/gallon, the fact that scooters can get from 100 to 155 miles/gallon is an attractive selling point! Rosa, who rides her scooter everywhere, says, “I spend about $12/month for gas and less than $300/year on insurance. I fill my tank so infrequently that I often forget about it for weeks.” Wow! Besides being low emission and environmentally friendly, purchasing a scooter is easy on the wallet, with prices less than $1,900. for the most-popular Paradise model.

My questions, however, focused on safety. Isn’t a scooter hard to ride . . . and what about other drivers? Rosa said she had the same trepidation the first time she hopped aboard, “but after a few hours I was comfortable and hooked. Now I find any excuse I can to leave the office to go for a scooter ride.” Besides emphasizing caution and awareness, Paradise Scooters’ staff provides free lessons to all customers, whether sales or rental, and will not let anyone leave the property until they feel comfortable. Rosa explains that other vehicles—even the notorious jitneys—give her a wide berth, so she feels especially safe on the road, even at night.

To encourage residents to enjoy the fun and economical scooter lifestyle, Paradise Scooters is starting a scooter club this spring. Anyone can join, with the idea of riding together to explore the island on occasional weekends. With a dozen scooters already sold each month, the group is likely to be large and growing.

Paradise Scooters’ popular and value-priced six-hour Vespa tour explores Provo’s nooks and crannies and includes an island-style lunch.

Interest in renting scooters by tourists is also high. Paradise Scooters offers a popular six-hour Vespa tour, including an island-style lunch, for the low price of $99. Guided by locals, the tour explores Provo’s fascinating nooks and crannies, including the Conch Farm, beaches, historical landmarks and local settlements of Chalk Sound, Blue Hills, Five Cays, Leeward and Long Bay.

Future plans for the company include importing inexpensive (less than $10,000.) and fuel-efficient cars that boast up to 55 miles/gallon, and similarly “green” SUVs, jeeps, beach buggies and vans. (Paradise also sells and rents bicycles and hybrid electric bikes—the Electric Stride and Storm—which you can pedal or throttle, with power on demand.) With a mechanic on staff, they promise full service and support for these ground-breaking vehicles.

For more information, visit www.paradisescooters.tc or call 649 333 3333.

By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos By Christine Morden & James Roy, Paradise Photography

If you could retire anywhere in the world, and do anything you desired, what would you do? If you had the resources to choose any vacation spot on the planet and savor every pleasure available, where would you go? What if the answers were the same? Villa Mani, a one-of-a-kind vacation complex sprawling over 2 1/2 acres on Providenciales’ quiet south shore, is both a retirement haven for owners David and Carol Pease, and a vacation paradise for guests in the all-inclusive luxury rental villa.

Villa Mani is a one-of-a-kind vacation complex sprawling over 2 1/2 acres on Providenciales’ quiet south shore.

Besides its eye-catching flamingo color, Villa Mani is distinctive for its magnificent location. The 15,000 sq. ft. villa lounges along a hill in Turtle Tail, with one side overlooking most of Providenciales and the other offering sweeping views of the ocean’s south shore and Caicos Banks. Villa Mani is fronted by a private marina and backed by a private beach, its lagoon protected in the embracing curve of a tiny cay. Spectacular 360º views await guests at the top of the tower, where there is a lounge and bar, the ideal place to greet each morning and end each day. Best of all, nearly anything and everything needed for a perfect vacation—from support staff to sports activities—is included in the rental price.

David and Carol Pease are as glamorous as their property. An outgoing, interesting couple who married later in life, they have experienced a good sampling of the best the world has to offer. Vivacious and beautiful, Carol describes arriving in the TCI for the first time on their 80 foot Italian yacht Phoenicia during a tour of the Bahamas in 2001. “We came for a week, ended up staying for a month, and bought property.” The Peases had been looking for the perfect place to retire, and happened to present their nearly impossible wish list to Bengt Soderqvist, one of Provo’s original real estate developers. Unbelievably, the Villa Mani site met every criterion.

David and Carol Pease (with their beloved dog Cally), chose Turks & Caicos as a place to retire and do business in the vacation villa rental market.

David, a Navy veteran, accredited captain and successful businessman (he invented the first residential steel door and revolutionized the market) has traveled the globe and states that he has not seen more stunning water or a more comfortable climate than that in the TCI. “The ocean changes color like a kaleidoscope and it’s never too hot or too cold. Privacy is a given and the Islanders are friendly and welcoming.” They sealed the deal and began planning their dream home, starting by tearing down the original John Finnegan house. Carol envisioned interiors and purchased the majority of the furniture and fittings to ship to the Islands in a half-dozen containers. Then a family tragedy struck, and the couple’s plans were put on hold for several years.

Throughout the long construction process, the Peases enlisted the talent of Ron Shaw, a TCI-based architect noted for award-winning luxury properties throughout the Caribbean. They “pushed him to be curvy” as they designed the various wings of the home to hug the hillside and flow along the shore, mirrored by large terraces and sinuous gardens designed by Palm Beach landscape architect Warren McCormick. With Carol entirely in charge of the quite-distinctive interiors, local artist Pam Leach created several lovely wall, ceiling and exterior frescos.

Although he had years of experience in the construction industry, David Pease says, “Building Villa Mani was a challenge because we did lots of re-design, but the end result made it all worthwhile. There was no problem procuring anything I needed.” He wanted the villa to be well built and high tech. As a result, bamboo floors are cushioned with foam, electronic locks don’t require keys, and there are 28 individual air conditioning units, which, along with the lights, operate on sensors that switch on and off when a person enters each room.

The end result can only be described as “over the top.” Carol says, “I thought we were going to ‘downsize’ our retirement home, but somehow, it just grew and grew!” Entered via the marble-floored front porch which reigns over the terraced garden entranceway, Villa Mani’s “Great Room” opens onto the ocean view, yet is decorated in regal style, including a baby grand piano, chandeliers and glass curio cabinets.

There are six bedrooms, each with private bath, sporting a unique decor and opening onto terraces overlooking the ocean. Half of the bedrooms are two-room suites, and all are appointed with luxurious feather beds, down duvets and the finest linens.

There are also five bars on the property, a testimony to the relaxation mode that seems to naturally take over. These range from a beachside cabana bar, tiki hut palapa and swim-up pool bar to the magnificent tower bar. An elevator from the auto court to the main villa level completes the amenities.

The many magnificent views of Villa Mani include the terraced infiniti pool, with views of the private cay-embraced beach.

Like many retirees, the outgoing Peases realized that occasionally renting out their “castle” would provide welcome stimulation, and a chance to meet other interesting and affluent families and corporate executives. They set apart a private suite for themselves and opened the rest of the villa for occasional rental for 1 to 15 guests. Understanding that the wealthy would rather not deal with details, the Peases decided to streamline by including almost everything in the rental rate.

As a result, guests (about 1/3 arrive by private jet or yacht) are met at the airport (or come straight into the marina’s private boat dock) and driven to the property by Villa Mani staff. Notable private chefs prepare gourmet breakfasts, lunches and dinners via daily consults with guests. George is the on-site butler and masseur, lured from his tenure at The Regent Palms and available for spa treatments anywhere on the Villa Mani property.

A 33′ power boat with captain is on call for snuba, fishing trips or picnics on secluded cays. Jet skis come from nearby Caicos Marina, the luxury catamaran Beluga stands ready for sunset sails and Provo Ponies’ steeds for horseback rides along the beach. The Peases act as concierge/coordinators of the five-person staff to cater to guests’ every need, and say they can be as “visible” or “invisible” hosts as their guests desire.

The Peases note that many guests simply savor the nooks and crannies and toys of Villa Mani, and rarely venture further afield. The greatest lure is the protected private beach. Overlooking the beach is a multi-level infiniti pool, complete with underwater chairs for sitting, sunning and sipping. Water toys include kayaks, hobie cats and paddleboards; planned for mid-2013 is a waterslide from the pool into the ocean. Indoors are a range of the latest electronics, including sound systems, flat-screen TVs in every room, WiFi, a theater room and library of “the world’s greatest books.”

Since Villa Mani opened in 2012, reaction from guests typically ranges from overwhelmed to overjoyed, and the property is developing a certain caché among the upscale clientele it attracts. Among the most honored guests are their “Wounded Warriors,” war veterans and their families. David’s military background inspires him to host four such groups annually, commenting, “I would do anything for the folks fighting to protect our country.”

The Peases often share their experience with other couples like themselves who may be considering retiring to the Turks & Caicos. “Besides the relaxing seaside lifestyle, perfect climate and great people, Provo is easy to get to and has great medical facilities and an experienced group of private doctors.”

It’s clear that the Peases, with a world of choice, are content with their decision to make the TCI their retirement home. Family and friends often visit, and their daughter was engaged, and later married, at Villa Mani. As we close the interview at the top of the tower, the sun just starting to sink into the ocean, a late winter glow lighting our faces and a gentle breeze at our backs, David muses, “The Islands are not for everyone, but for us and our guests, everything we like is right here.” That’s not hard to believe.

For more information, visit www.villamanitci.com, email info@villamanitci.com or call (649) 431-4444.

Story & Photos By Ramona Settle

There are many restaurants in Providenciales with gorgeous settings and upscale ambience, but sometimes I’m on a quest for simpler island fare. I want to mingle with locals, experience island life, eat like a native. (It also gives my wallet a break!) The Bahamas, Jamaica and Turks & Caicos all have similar basic foods in common. The island way of life required traditions such as stewing tougher meats for hours or “beating” conch to tenderize, extensive use of inexpensive and plentiful “ground food” (root vegetables) and flour-based dumplings and breads, and frying fish as a means of preservation in the heat.

A big part of enjoying local fare is partaking in a truly TCI setting.

The restaurants described here (not a complete list by any means!) serve up home cooking at its best. In many cases, menus are made up daily, based on what’s available, so you’re always wise to ask, “What’s on the menu today?” Each of these local favorites may seem to have similar fare, but each offers its own special blend of character and ambience, whether a beach view, island gossip, or live music.

Many vacationers don’t have to go far to find Flamingo Café, located between Club Med and Ocean Club at the Cultural Center. The restaurant is owned by Grand Turk native Ricky Clark, and when visitors were trying to find Flamingo Café, locals had never heard of it. They know it as “Ricky’s” (many establishments are known simply by the name of the owner).

Flamingo Café is on a sand road, and what a view! Open air patio dining with fans to keep it comfortable. Turquoise water as far as you can see. (You can also shop for local souvenirs at the Cultural Center kiosks.)

I remember when the restaurant started out with a kitchen window and two tables . . . the cooking became so popular they’ve taken over the entire porch. Stand-outs are fish sandwiches, curry chicken and coconut grouper. I never miss a visit here on New Year’s Eve, as this is the place to be! There’s a beach BBQ bonfire with buffet ribs (the smells from the outdoor grills keep you hungry all night). It’s also the best vantage point for fireworks at midnight.

Next stop is Smokey’s on Da Bay, the original rib shack on the beach nearly two decades ago. The ribs were legendary, and legend has it that “Smokey” Smith did well at previous locations, cashed in, traveled and entertained himself and his friends, and is now back running a restaurant again. No longer on the bay, his latest location is in a small building across from Alexandra Resort. Being indoors, Smokey’s is a good place to go when it is hot or raining.

The ribs remain legendary, complemented by such Caribbean staples as macaroni and cheese, roasted corn and johnnycake. And any time you walk into the small restaurant, you’ll likely find Smokey himself, probably sitting at the bar eating peanuts. There’s beer and wine, drinks and rum punch. Friday evenings are Fish Fry Night with live music and Happy Hour specials in the courtyard.

Nearby is Middle Caicos Café, located within the Culture Market with small shops with local souvenirs. Lisa Harvey-Simonds, the owner and cook, has great stories to tell. Originally from Middle Caicos, she came to work in Provo in 1993 at the original Ramada Turquoise Reef resort (which has since been demolished and is now the Seven Stars Resort). Some time later, she started her café outside a small liquor store called “Shut Up and Drink,” where she started to cook breakfast for some of the regulars on Saturdays. One customer claimed she was the best cook on the island, and encouraged her to open up her own restaurant . . . and Middle Caicos Café was born.

Lisa’s specialties are definitely island-style, including stew conch, steamed fish, fried plantains and the best macaroni and cheese. When I took a quick survey of current customers, her grouper fillet with sautéed peppers and onions and “special seasoning” was a hit. This café is open for lunch from 10 AM to 6 PM, with breakfast on Saturdays at 8 AM.

Colorful settings are a given when you delve into the local restaurant scene.

Blue Hills is a “must” for any culinary tour of native food. As you round the bend into the colorful seaside settlement, Horse-eye Jack’s is the first restaurant you’ll meet. Marked by a huge beachfront deck and a lively bar, the fun and friendly establishment features easy foods such as chicken wings, conch fritters, jerk pork, burgers and a fresh catch of the day, all able to give your tastebuds a treat and your wallet a break! They also offer a rare kid’s menu. Sundays are great for winding down and meeting locals at the bar or playing beach volleyball. Don’t miss the lively Full Moon bonfire on the beach, with food and drink specials.

Right next door is the Da Conch Shack, notorious for being featured in travel magazines, on the Travel Channel and even on reality TV shows. Why? It’s so photogenic! Colorful buildings, contrasting picnic tables, impossibly turquoise water, shaded by palm trees. It’s even been featured in the book, 1000 Places to See Before You Die!

Of course, don’t stop just for pictures, you have to eat . . . and what else but conch, whether served in salad, fritters, cracked, stewed or grilled! And you can be sure the conch is fresh—after you place your order, someone swims out to the holding tank to retrieve it! Go on a Thursday night for live music, and don’t be scared to try the “pistol” of the conch, considered an aphrodisiac.

Further west into Blue Hills is Sailing Paradise restaurant. You can’t miss it, as the colorful cluster of buildings is another photographer’s delight. Here, Orville Hamilton makes the most delicious native foods, from salt fish and stew, to curry goat and oxtail. If your tastebuds are not quite as exotic, the ribs are some of the best on island and they also serve chicken, pork and shrimp with the usual Caribbean sides. They offer catering services for weddings, birthdays and special luncheons, with great prices to match. They also supply something no one else does for tourists—shuttle service to and from major resorts.

Further west is the venerable Three Queens Restaurant, the oldest in Blue Hills, dating back to 1970 before there was a resort or hotel on the island. Dick Been is the grandson of three generations that have run this place. Ms. Martha will tell you what’s on the menu any given day; there’s always grouper, conch and lobster (in season).

While there’s usually a game of slammin’ dominoes going on, Three Queens seems to have the best local gossip! Find out the latest “what’s up,” including both sides of the ever-lively political scene. Three Queens is also the home of the world’s only Conch Festival. Held annually at the end of November, the entire island, including tourists, comes to join the fun.

Last stop in Blue Hills is Froggie’s on Da Beach. They have a second-story deck great for sunset watching that turns into dancing some nights. Food is simple here: conch, fish and chicken, served casually with buckets of beer. Wednesday nights get lively with a DJ and free shots! Froggie’s is more than just a bar and restaurant, they have ATV tours that travel on the beach.

As you ride through Blue Hills, you’ll see little shacks tucked between colorful handmade sailing sloops on the beach. Here, you can always stop for a drink or to buy a coconut. Chances are, you’ll be approached by children selling conch shells. The shells are gorgeous and a great souvenir of the local foods tour. To bring them home, there is an allowance of two shells per person at customs.

Native food at it’s finest: fish fingers, homemade fries and cole slaw, served with a view of the sea at Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl.

Straight south as the crow flies, on the opposite side of the island is the native settlement of Five Cays, home to Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl. Back in the day at its previous location in Blue Hills, Bugaloo Williams was the originator of “fresh from the sea” conch salad and the resulting conch frenzy. His new location in Five Cays doesn’t miss a beat, and has become a spot for locals, expatriates and visitors to mix and mingle, with a great island vibe.

Along with being a master of “conchology,” Bugaloo’s also does well at getting people together, especially on Conch Crawl Sundays. Featuring, of course, conch served in countless ways with live music. Warning: the live music can be rated “R” at times! I don’t think children would notice, but the adults sure do! It’s definitely a fun place to be. Even their Facebook page claims they are masters of “Conchology.”

(Editor’s note: I had to add the name of my rival to this survey of local eateries. When I am not on-island, my husband turns to Miss Moonie to keep him well-fed.) “Miss Moonie” is the local heroine for which Provo’s only 24- hour native restaurant/convenience store is named. She won the hearts of nobles and gentry alike with her decadent South Caicos cuisine and down-home hospitality.

Located just after the last roundabout at the east end of Leeward Highway, Miss Moonies is a virtual pick and choose of local fare, including cracked lobster, boiled, fried and steamed fresh fish, braised oxtails, jerked chicken, loaded okra and rice and the world-famous Uncle Shadie’s chunky conch fritters. No matter what you opt for, it is guaranteed to be served fast, fresh and always delicious from the heated showcase. Folks in the know say not to miss the “moonie” juice and hand-dipped ice cream.

You can also find a huge variety of snacks, staples, fruits, vegetables and dairy products in the store, with excellent prices. Miss Moonies is the only spot to eat after a late night shift or evening spent partying. In fact, from 2 to 5 AM it can be hard to find a seat. There is indoor air-conditioned dining, tables outdoors in a lovely terrace poolside or “to-go” service.

Finally, I must mention Hole in the Wall, tucked away in Williams Plaza on Old Airport Road. Being close to the airport, it makes a great stop between flights (if you are going to an out island) or as a last stop for lunch before you leave.

The location is not scenic. The ambience can be sleepy. Why stop here? This is as “deep” as Caribbean food gets. For breakfast, “true” food consists of seasoned codfish, saltfish and cornmeal porridge. Lunch offers peas ‘n’ grits, johnnycake, and the best jerk grilled chicken on the island. On Fridays, consider sampling Manish Water (a rich goat’s head soup redolent with spices, potatoes and dumplings and rumored to increase virility in men), curried goat or oxtail stew, topped off with ginger beer. They are extremely easy on the wallet when compared to most restaurants here, but not open on Sundays.

My local foods tour is easy to do by rental car, but if you’d rather be “chaufferred,” there are always taxis or one of the new island tours that offer a lunch stop at a local restaurant. Concha Woncha Tours has a fun turquoise trolley that includes stops at the Conch Farm and Chalk Sound, with a native dance and cultural show. Paradise Scooters does an “all-around” Provo guided tour on scooter for $99, which also includes lunch.