“Simplicity is the key to excellence,” states Andre Neiderhauser, manager of Point Grace, one of the country’s most upscale hotel properties. The essential ingredients are all in place: Point Grace rises above a gentle curve of Providenciales’ picturesque Grace Bay, with miles of alabaster beach to either side and the magnificent Atlantic Ocean at the doorstep. The property is a British Colonial inspiration, with every room carefully designed for beauty, comfort and convenience. But it is the service that melds these elements into an unforgettable Caribbean retreat. Andre explains, “Our goal is to pay meticulous attention to behind-the-scenes details to ensure that each guest’s experience is elegant, beautiful and relaxing.”Point Grace resort

It all starts well before arrival. Beverly Williams, the hotel’s personable reservations manager, queries guests on their favorite music, beverages and any special needs, so that suites can be prepared ahead of time. Visitors are met at the airport to be escorted to the resort; honeymooners and special guests arrive in a vintage Rolls Royce. A complimentary “destress” treatment at the spa can follow in-suite check-in, where fresh flowers and chilled drinks await tired travellers. Each afternoon, pool- and beachgoers are served Caribbean ice shavings; early evening drinks and canapes are offered at Grace’s Cottage, the hotel’s elegant restaurant, and at turn-down, staff lights oil lamps at bedside.

Lodging choices range from an extraordinary penthouse to one-, two- and three-bedroom suites, with only 32 rooms in all to the intimate property. Suites in the two, three-story oceanfront buildings feature picture-perfect views of the sea from large terraces, but Assistant Manager Pamela Ewing says that a number of guests choose the charming gingerbread cottage suites, which are surrounded by mature tropical landscaping and steps away from both the poolside terrace and beach.

All suites have central air conditioning, ceiling fans, full kitchens, in-room safes and a washer/dryer, with elevator service in the beachfront units. Interiors are distinguished by Indonesian hardwood and teak furniture embellished with brightly colored silk, cotton and linen fabrics. But once again, it is the extra attention to detail that makes a difference. King-size beds are adorned in soft Frette linens. Hand-painted Jerusalem tiles and mahogany woodwork grace the spacious bathrooms that feature hair dryers, luxuriant Frette terry robes, lightweight Indonesian cotton robes and a collection of quality bath amenities. Each suite has its own CD and DVD players, as well as cable TV. Every morning, guests can savor freshly brewed coffee in their well equipped kitchens and the New York Times Digest, delivered to their mailbox.

A stroll around Point Grace’s peaceful grounds is a simply sensual experience, replete with lush flora aromas, caressing sea breezes and the sweet music of silence . . . enhanced with a touch of culture. Point Grace is the vision of a Swiss developer, whose collection of African tribal art and artifacts lends an exotic flair to the hotel’s public spaces and suites, while refined copies of masterpieces by Van Gogh, Renoir, Gauguin and other renowned artists add a classic touch.

Point Grace’s buildings and cottages encircle a central courtyard, leaving open an ocean vista in ever-changing shades of blue. Here are the freshwater pool, whirlpool and sunning terrace perfectly shaded by the broad leaves of mature palms. Staff plies icy drinks from the poolside bar and chilled towels to keep guests cool and comfortable.
Nearby, one of the cottages serves as a social center for guests. On its sun-dappled terrace, breakfast and lunch are served. Throughout the day, fruit and beverages can be found in the casual lounge, which also holds a small library of books, board games, CDs and DVDs.

Just beyond the courtyard, the beach’s pristine, powdery sands beckon sunbather, stroller and swimmer alike. There are plenty of beach lounges at the ready and an offshore barrier reef ensures that the surf “laps” rather than “pounds.” Guests have complimentary use of kayaks, snorkel gear and Hobie Cats and beach attendants provide convenient beverage service.

Concierge Chris Jarrett and the front desk staff stand ready to help guests experience the island beyond this luxurious enclave. Superb scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing and parasailing excursions are available through select local operators. The hotel’s own 27 foot motor launch, Lady Grace, handles day trips and private island drop-offs; picnic hampers can be ordered ahead of time. Point Grace guests enjoy membership at the Provo Golf & Country Club and the country’s only casino is nearby. Chris and staff also assist guests with car and bicycle rentals, restaurant selection and reservations, trips to nearby islands and can arrange for the services of babysitters, maids and butlers, personal fitness trainers and private chefs.

Who are typical guests at this one-of-a-kind property? Surprisingly, it’s not just the rich and famous. Pamela Ewing explains, “We host a mixture of the middle class, upper class and very wealthy. We have some people who have saved up for a special vacation and come here to be pampered. We cater to a lot of honeymooners . . . who we expect will return for their anniversaries.” Andre Neiderhauser adds, “We’re also attracting savvy travellers who come during the off season to experience luxury properties when prices are lower. And, there are more families, for which our larger units work well. But we strive to keep a reasonable blend of guests at any given time.”

Business travellers are also encouraged, with a business room complete with FAX machine and Internet access and full secretarial service available. Point Grace’s three- and four-bedroom penthouse suites are particularly conducive to small retreats or meetings.

Swiss-born Andre Neiderhauser brings 25 years of international experience in the hotel and restaurant business to his role as manager of Point Grace, most recently at Tortola’s Prospect Reef Resort. He was attracted to the Turks & Caicos following a visit in 2000 to officiate as regional officer at the Islands’ first Chaine des Rotisseurs meeting, and he often exercises his flair for fine dining at Grace’s Cottage. North Caicos native Pamela Ewing has been at the hotel’s forefront since its initial set-up in 1999, following a six year stint at the prestigious Grace Bay Club and an internship at the famous Hotel del Coronado in San Diego, California. With a busy daily schedule dealing with guests, staff, vendors, marketing personnel and the press, her organized, calm demeanor is crucial. She says, “Little details count and you can’t get easily frustrated when you are working in an island environment. Above all, we want our guests to feel welcomed and pampered. We want to show them that we understand their importance and appreciate their business.”

With a ratio of nearly two staff members to each guest, Andre states the obvious when he says, “We feel that each person on our team is the key to making it happen.” Point Grace offers training programs to assist employees in progressing in their jobs and is actively seeking to increase the number of Turks & Caicos Islanders seeking a career in the luxury resort industry. Andre explains, “We’re looking for people who have the right attitude and desire to succeed . . . .’diamonds in the rough,’ if you will, who will help enhance the Point Grace experience.”

The Spa Experience at Point Grace
Photo by Darrell Jones

As befitting its oceanfront location, Point Grace’s spa features a unique concept termed thalassotherapy, literally “treatment by the sea.” Spa Manager Edmone Sibide explains the technique, “Thalassotherapy is the use of seawater and seaweed in a number of wellness therapies. We import a specialized line of products from the Thalgo laboratories in France that use only marine ingredients.”
Point Grace Spa
Fresh sea breezes and a marvelous view of the ocean are part of the thalasso beauty elements. Point Grace’s spa is located in three, white-washed buildings set apart at the east of the property and just back from the beach dune. The treatment rooms are designed to allow doors and windows to be open to the ocean view and sea air while guests are being pampered, yet privacy is maintained. Each high-ceilinged suite is thoroughly outfitted with massage table, marble sinks and an open-roofed shower.
This simple, naturally beautiful environment blends well with Edmone’s French-influenced philosophy of wellness therapy. She says, “I believe in a pure, natural approach without the need for artifice. Professionalism, the knowledge that comes through our hands and the best products are all that is needed.”

Besides a variety of aromatheraputic massages, including Swedish, Shiatsu, Tai, sports and lymph drainage techniques, the spa offers body scrubs and algae wraps, marine facial treatments, manicures, pedicures, waxing and cosmetic treatments. There are also one to five day packages designed to focus on specific results, whether rejuvenating, slimming or simply overall well being is your goal.

Services are open to all visitors and residents of the Turks & Caicos; phone for reservations in advance.

Executive Director Ethlyn Gibbs-Williams laughs when she recalls that in the early days, one of the misconceptions people had about the National Trust was that it was a place to borrow money. Yet while not technically a bank, the Turks & Caicos National Trust does perform similar functions . . . its currency being the country’s natural heritage, history and culture, and its benefactors being both present and future generations. As development makes a “run on the bank,” it becomes ever more important that the very elements that shape and define the essence of “Turks & Caicos” not be “spent” in the process, leaving a country bankrupt of its very soul.

From its far-sighted formation a decade ago through years of growing pains, the National Trust has come a long way, blossoming into a protective and effective organization with a number of major projects to its credit and many more new and ongoing every year. This new column, “A Measure of Trust,” will highlight in each issue a specific National Trust accomplishment, with this first feature providing background and overview.

How Did the National Trust Get Started?

The Turks & Caicos National Trust was launched in January, 1993 after passage of the National Trust Ordinance 1992 by the TCI Government. A prime mover behind its formation was Patricia Bradley, wife of former TCI Governor Michael Bradley. As an ornithologist, Ms. Bradley recognized that “The Turks & Caicos environment is unique and one of the least altered natural environments in the Caribbean. You have to get in first and protect the valuable resources in order to have control over development.” Oswald Williams, the first chairman, believed that “Preservation plans had to be set in place before the growth of tourism and the increase in development impacted any further on the physical and cultural environment.” How wise they were!

Who is in Charge?

The National Trust was established as a membership-based, non-governmental organization. It is governed by an elected Council which includes representatives from all of TCI’s inhabited islands and three government-appointed members. The current chairman is Michael Taylor.

The National Trust was originally led by a director recruited from abroad with a strong background in environmental non-profit organizations. However, there was available on-island someone who had focused her career along a similar course and in 1996, Ethlyn Gibbs-Williams took over the leadership role. A native of Middle Caicos, Ethlyn had long been involved in the country’s environmental progress and, she says, “I love my country and I wanted to work where I could make a difference.”
She recalls that initially, it wasn’t an easy row to hoe. “I had to work hard to gain the respect of both the government and members of the community. They weren’t used to having a young woman in a management role who was offering suggestions that were’nt always what they wanted to hear.”

A fervent believer in the National Trust’s mission, Ethlyn persevered and slowly, over the years, things began to turn around. Ethlyn explains, “Now most people associate the Trust with protection of the environment and we have earned a great deal of recognition and respect that was not previously there. This is largely the result of our staff’s extensive involvement with the community to raise public awareness of the need to protect our rich natural and cultural assets.”

Over the last six years, the staff has grown from one to seven, and the offices have moved from tiny quarters to a larger space in Butterfield Square. Although it is obvious that Trust employees are a tightly knit group whose tasks often overlap, Executive Director Ethlyn Gibbs-Williams plans basic strategy and retains responsibility for representing the National Trust to the government’s Executive Council and other interested groups. Executive Officer Colette Robinson focuses on public relations, marketing and membership, while Public Information Officer Gigi Williams concentrates on environmental education by working closely with the schools, youth groups, hotels and tour and dive operators. Providing valuable support to all is Administrative Assistant Jovett Harvey. Allan-Ray Smith serves as Heritage Sites Supervisor, maintaining and monitoring the areas now managed by the Trust. He, in turn, supervises Little Water Cay Warden Bruce Garland and Conservation Officer Bryan Manco, who was originally involved in the Darwin Project.

What are the Trust’s Major Tasks?

The Trust’s primary task is to preserve areas of cultural, historic or natural significance, with the power to hold property in perpetuity for the people of the TCI. At the same time, it is expected to act as an advisory and support agency to government on conservation issues.
For each major project, steps were taken to identify, investigate, classify and protect the site, with interpretive trails, signs and literature produced as necessary. The Trust currently owns property in Providenciales and North Caicos and is actively working to acquire other sites of environmental and historic importance. It holds land leases on Bird Rock Point, Little Water Cay, Little Ambergris Cay and Fish Cay and is awaiting government approval of leases on Cheshire Hall and Wade’s Green.

Another top priority is making sure the public is educated about the importance of the Trust’s work, especially the nation’s young people. Programs included the development of “Our Land, Our Sea, Our People,” a complete curriculum for primary schools to teach about the natural environment. The Trust also produces a popular environmental magazine, Eco Echoes, with games, stories and articles geared to children aged 4 to 12. The current focus is on recruiting Junior Members via a presentation to school leaders and students.

An important role of the National Trust is to build and strengthen cooperative relationships between related organizations, both in the Islands and abroad, to ensure that efforts are complementary and not duplicated. While this has not always been easy, Cynthia Astwood, TCI Chief Secretary, stated in the Trust’s 2002 Annual Report, “I am heartened by the ever-growing collaborative efforts between the National Trust and the TCI Tourist Board, the Department of Environment and Coastal Resources, the Education Department, the Turks & Caicos National Museum, the government, individual and corporate sponsors, local and overseas partners and other supporters and volunteers.”

International partners often assist by providing grants or loaning support staff for specific Trust programs. For instance, the RARE Centre for Tropical Conservation funded the Trust’s public education campaign on the Rock Iguana and the English National Trust recently sent a conservation/restoration expert to assist in the preservation of Cheshire Hall.

Finally, effective conservation depends on accurate information about the ecosystems concerned. The Trust’s Darwin Initiative Project in Middle Caicos, which began in September, 1999, is a major monitoring and management project for the Ramsar wetlands in North, Middle and East Caicos. This initiative is part of the Trust’s extensive program with the UK Overseas Territories Conservation Forum. Bryan Manco coordinated work of the many visiting scientists, besides carrying out his own fieldwork. The goal is to identify the flora and fauna present in the vast wetlands system to have a benchmark against which to measure future changes.

How is the National Trust Funded?

Funding for the National Trust comes from a variety of sources. Administrative expenses are largely covered by major corporate benefactors and corporate and individual supporters and donors; some government support; a portion of the Conservation Fund (a 1% tax on accommodations collected from visitors); fees from the Little Water Cay Nature Trail; and sales of merchandise specific to each Trust project. The projects themselves are primarily funded through grant money gleaned from a number of different organizations. In all, spending must be carefully balanced by “deposits,” and fund-raising–tied in to overall public awareness–remains an important Trust activity.

What are Some of the Trust’s Current Projects?

The Trust is currently involved in a number of different projects around the Islands, many of which will be covered in more detail in future installments of this column:

*In South Caicos, the Trust is engaged in a joint project with the School for Field Studies to study and enhance the Boiling Hole, designated an Area of Historic Interest for its vital role in the island’s salt works. The project includes installing interpretive signs with information about the salt works, aquatic birds, mangroves, the endemic heather plant, sheepshead minnows and other marine species. The Trust is also establishing a training program about the site for local tour guides and is completing a scientific investigation of the birds and fish that inhabit the Boiling Hole and adjacent salinas.

*At the Cheshire Hall Loyalist plantation site on Providenciales, a British Government grant is helping fund an eight-step rescue strategy for the ruins, which are being adversely affected by surrounding commercial development. This involves adding a more visual interpretation with sketches of how the site may have looked when operational. Because of its central location, the Trust’s long-term plans for Cheshire Hall entail the development of a major cultural tourism facility. Government has agreed to give the Trust a 99-year lease on the site.

*The Wade’s Green plantation in North Caicos is in its second phase of preservation and development, with plant identification signage added, along with a thatched gazebo and viewing tower. A field has been planted with foods typically grown on the site, such as corn, peas and potatoes. The site is being regularly maintained and plans are to have a guide conduct scheduled tours. Visitors will be charged an admission fee and receive a souvenir button.

*A shed and third boardwalk will be added to Little Water Cay, which continues to serve as a major Turks & Caicos tourist attraction and primary Trust money raiser.

Basket Weaving Workshop*For the last two years, the Trust, in tandem with the Coastal Resources Management Project, holds an Environmental Summer Camp for children. It covers a variety of topics including wetlands, culture, protected areas, plants and birds, with discussion sessions, slide shows and activities such as basket weaving and boat building workshops. Campers take field trips to sites such as Cheshire Hall, Sapodilla Hill and Little Water Cay and a day trip to Middle Caicos.

What Projects are Planned for the Future?

When asked about projects on the drawing board, Ethlyn has a long list ready at hand. She says, “We’re very excited about the Living Classroom program, where selected wetland areas on each island–such as Village Pond on Middle Caicos and Cheshire Hall Creek on Providenciales–will be equipped with viewing blinds and interpretive signs for birdwatching. In Middle Caicos, we’ve leased the old school in Bambarra and will be renovating it into an interpretive center for the results of the Darwin project. We also plan a trail with plant identification at Haulover Plantation in Middle Caicos and will be reopening the trail at Bird Rock Point in Providenciales.”

Most of the Trust’s future programs are tailored to the needs of the community and both Ethlyn and Colette say ideas for new projects often come from simply listening to people whom they meet, or are natural progressions from projects in progress. For instance, although the Darwin project started as a conservation management program, it was so well received by the people of Middle Caicos that it eventually branched out into providing opportunities for small business development there. The Trust conducted two workshops in Middle Caicos for persons interested in conservation management and eco-tourism.

Some future projects spring directly from the threats of progress. Proposed development on Big Ambergris Cay means that some of its large population of the endangered rock iguana must be relocated. Because the iguana populations of Big and Little Ambergris Cays have been separate for many years, it is essential for biodiversity reasons that populations not be mingled. As such, the Trust has focused its attention on safeguarding the 18,000 iguanas living in Little Ambergris Cay and was recently granted a 99-year lease on the property. Work is also underway to develop a conservation management plan for Water Cay and Little Water Cay, which may include the separation of the two (currently joined by a sandbar) to eliminate potential predators such as cats and dogs from getting to the protected area.

The extensive caverns in Conch Bar Caves National Park are an important ecological area, as well. Research done by bat specialists found that the caves contained at least four species of bats, and are home to a unique cave-dwelling shrimp. The national park also includes Village Pond, an important wetland for viewing birds, including flamingos, and a confirmed breeding site for the endangered West Indian Whistling Duck. The consensus among Middle Caicos residents is that the park needs supervised protection and that the Trust is the proper organization to do this. The Trust is currently awaiting government ratification of this conclusion.

It’s obvious that there’s never a lack of potential projects, nor areas to be protected and Ethlyn projects a sense of urgency about her work. She says, “In 1997, we identified an extensive list of areas important to protect for future generations via the National Trust’s right to declare land inalienable forever. We keep revising this list with suggestions from the community, places they feel have special relevance to their heritage. Unfortunately, only about 2% of the land has actually been turned over to the Trust. The rest is still Crown Land and has the potential to be developed. Part of my job is to continually lobby government that it is in the best interest of all for the land to be granted to the Trust. I often feel that if we are not more aggressive in this pursuit, there will be nothing left for the generations to come.”

For more information, contact The National Trust at tcnattrust@tciway.tc or visit www.tcimall.tc/nationaltrust.

The Arches of Grand TurkEven at the most lavish Caribbean resort, it’s rare to feel at home in your room or suite . . . in most places, a cool impersonality replaces the homey touch that allows complete relaxation. The Arches of Grand Turk are an exception. The four-unit, two-story vacation townhomes in the attractive, red-tiled building on Lighthouse Road offer accommodations unmatched in the nation’s capital, truly “a home away from home.”

To begin with, the residences are huge (1,400 sq. ft.), and each room is the size you’d expect in a “real life” family home. The decor, mostly handcrafted by owner Cecile Wennick, adds to the comfortable atmosphere and units are thoroughly furnished with everything you need to settle right in. (Just about the only homey touch lacking is wear and tear–each unit is meticulously clean and appears brand-new from top to bottom!)

There’s no doubt that you’re on a Caribbean holiday, though. All you need to do is look through the arches of one of the four private balconies in each unit. Built on North Ridge, The Arches stand on one of the highest points in Grand Turk and boast a 360 degree view of the island. From the back balconies, you’ll enjoy sunrises over the eastern Atlantic shore and from some units, you can spot the historic lighthouse on Northeast Point or Gibb’s Cay. Step to the front balconies for spectacular sunsets and views of North Creek, Cockburn Town and the western shore. On either side, refreshing sea breezes will keep you cool and comfortable.

Cecile and husband Wally are Canadians who discovered the Turks & Caicos back in 1983, when Wally installed Grand Turk’s first satellite dish for Turks & Caicos Banking Company. Prior to that, they lived in the Bahamas from 1968 to 1978 (their “island learning experience,” Cecile says). They bought land in Grand Turk 15 years ago and spent the intervening time running a hotel in Fort Lauderdale. They moved to Grand Turk in 1998 to supervise construction of The Arches, which they designed to fill a perceived need for upper-end lodging there; the property opened in December 1999.

The Arches of Grand Turk

Cecile says, “We wanted The Arches to be a very special place where guests could unwind in a restful, home-like environment.” On each unit’s lower level, the elevated front porch opens into a “life-size” kitchen/dining room, complete with a dining table that seats six. The living room (just like home with cable TV, VCR, books and National Geographics) looks over the back patio and there is a bathroom with shower and plenty of storage space. Upstairs are two expansive bedrooms, each air-conditioned and opening onto a balcony. (Cecile describes with awe the full moon’s silvery ocean path that can be seen from the back bedroom on a clear night.) There is also a small sitting alcove complete with rocking chair, a full bathroom with tub and shower and more closet space.

Decorating and handicrafts are Cecile’s passions and her talents are exhibited against a backdrop of crisp white walls. She takes credit for sewing the curtains, bedspreads, pillows and bed ruffles and creating the unique wall borders and bed frames and her needlework personalizes towels and linens. Cecile says she delights in “using things that are around” and her creativity shines in such items as hand-painted bottles rescued from the sea, driftwood-based candles and straw hats adorned with shells and dried flowers used as wall hangings. Carefully planned to enhance rather than overwhelm, Cecile’s classy “touch of crafts” truly adds to The Arches’ distinctiveness.

The Wennicks say most of their guests are discerning vacationers who appreciate Grand Turk’s simple, unpretentious lifestyle. Each townhome can hold up to six people, so families are no problem, and one unit is set aside for potential long-term rentals for businesspeople. Scuba divers are attracted to the island’s world-renowned, near-shore walls and a number of guests are referrals from the island’s three dive operators.

The beach (visible from the back balconies) is a mere five minute stroll from The Arches. Cecile says this windward shore is virtually deserted and beachcombing is especially good at certain times of year. At press time, the Wennicks were building a 14 x 28-foot freshwater pool. It will be surrounded by a tiled pool deck and flanked by a raised covered pavilion complete with changing room. Besides enhancing guests’ enjoyment, the Wennicks expect the facility to provide a beautiful venue for romantic island weddings.

The colorful landscaping surrounding the property adds to the feeling of tropical enchantment. Using primarily native plants from North Caicos, the Wennicks painstakingly designed, planted, water and weed the gardens which are blossoming under their tender care.

“We don’t want our guests to feel like strangers,” states Cecile, “and we bend over backwards to make them feel welcome.” The Wennicks live on-site, so they are always available to help with transportation, excursions, dining and the like. In fact, they consider The Arches to be an extension of their personalities and as such, treat each unit with a loving touch and fastidious care, explaining “We appreciate nice things and like to keep them that way.”

As the sun descends beyond the reef I check my watch, wondering if tonight will be my lucky night. I’ve tended to every detail of which I can think, trying my best to stack the odds in my favor. Oh, but Mother Nature can be fickle. With that in mind, I’ve been up late the last few nights; I am prepared. And so, I check my watch again while the evening unfolds beneath a passing full moon, the sea lapping gently at the night sky and rolling upon itself. With each measured breath, I glance about, soon to see that the heavens have indeed aligned in my favor.

Unknown to many, summer is when some of the Caribbean’s most massive corals undergo a highly synchronized mass-reproduction event. Imagine, as the warm rays wane and you settle into a romantic shorefront evening at your favorite restaurant, that the reef beyond is planning a few activities of its own. Under the guise of darkness, colonies of giant elkhorn and mountainous boulder corals prepare for surprisingly predictable spawning bonanzas that can leave the sea surface streaked with extensive slicks of tiny, floating eggs. Although it can be a momentous event, biologists were wholly unaware of this phenomenon until the early 1980s, for it only occurs a few nights each year, and winds and currents easily disperse the floating masses before the new day dawns. And with each species tending to spawn at a specific time on these particular nights, it is no wonder such events went undetected for so long.

Peering about, I discover I am not the only one who seems to approach the night with a sense of excitement. More than the usual cadre of players seem to be out, looking a little edgy and darting about as if they also wait nervously in expectation. Or is it just me? Am I simply more aware of the goings-on as my senses tune to the action? As I draw slowly on my regulator, I do not imagine too much about what may lie in the dark waters beyond my dive light, but instead marvel at the transformation the reef and its inhabitants have undergone while hidden from the rays of our closest star. While night diving may not be for everyone, I dare say that it is more than worth the effort, and may (as it has for me) become one of your favorite types of dive. A whole new assemblage of fishes and other cryptic beings come out under the protection of darkness to lurk amongst the fusion of corals, and tonight they sense a feast.

As corals come in a great diversity of forms, so do they display a number of what biologists like to call “life history strategies,” or ways of solving the general challenge of survival and reproduction. Stony coralsÑthose that produce most of the hard, white coral skeletons we have all seen on the beach and in shell shops–are responsible for building the bulk of the world’s tropical reefs. Most species of reef builders are made up of tiny individuals of anemone-like polyps living together in massive colonies. Individuals within a colony are genetic clones, and being fixed to the substrate, must release their gametes (eggs and sperm) into open water. There they met gametes from other colonies in order to effect sexual reproduction. A different strategy from the human condition, no doubt, but it seems to work for them.

In what appears to be an attempt at maximizing fertilization success, the polyps of many corals release bundles of lipid-rich eggs that float to the sea surface upon release. Hitching a ride with these bundles of several to several dozen eggs are tiny packets containing millions of sperm. Not long after reaching the surface, the delicate layer surrounding the bundle soon ruptures, releasing its contents. When done in synchrony, gametes from a number of colonies have increased their chance of meeting each other, as all are now at the surface rather than diluted throughout the water column. It is here that fertilization takes place and the tiny new life of a genetically unique coral begins

It is going on 9 PM and I start to see slight changes in the minute polyps of a giant elkhorn. Being careful not to touch the reef, I examine a branch closely and find that within the golden-brown polyps a pale bulge begins to appear. I figure my piscine pals have taken note as the number of Coral Spawning detailsilvery flashes increase about me. Several fire worms, needle-fine setae bristling in my light, also rear their heads in recognition, as does a brittle star that comes out of hiding with whispy arms waving about, tasting the environment via the highly sensitive tube feet with which they are tipped. The bulging I see is like the musicians of an orchestra taking their seats, already tuned and waiting silently for a signal from the conductor: the eggs are readied for delivery.

These pale pink gamete bundles develop and then emerge from the colorless, deeper folds of tissue lining the shallow cavities of the coral’s stony white frame. Hard, reef-building corals are really just a delicately thin layer of living tissue overlying the calcium carbonate lattice that they themselves secrete. A typical coral polyp is simply a circular stalk or trunk with a relatively large mouth at one end. Tentacles tipped with stinging cells, which can be employed to catch tiny food particles from the plankton, ring the mouth. Being of primitive form, corals utilize a simple strategy of releasing eggs through their digestive sacs and out their mouths. Next time you come across a piece of coral on the beach, examine it closely to see the intricate array of geometric patterns created by the septa or divisions within each polyp.

By now I feel as though Mother Nature is teasing me and those who look on; it will be a while longer before the show beings. But not to worry, as my attention has already been diverted. A goldentail eel glides by below, poling its head into holes and crevices in search of a meal or a mate, or something of which I know not. As the eel hardly seems to take notice, I continue to drift down and over the purple splaying barrels of a stove-pipe sponge, and spy one of the reef’s daytime inhabitants bedded down for the night. Deep within one tube is a varicolored wrasse wondering who turned the light on. One of the pleasures of night diving is that you can often give close inspection to fishes that are otherwise shy by daylight–a trick not unnoticed by underwater photographers. And so I soon come face to face with a puffer that is temporarily disoriented by my passing light. It, too, was probably in some sort of quiescent mode, so I pardon myself and move on.

Although the first observations of mass coral spawnings were noted on the great reefs of Australia as recently as 1981, it wasn’t until 1990 that such events were confirmed in the Caribbean region. Temperature and lunar period seem to be the major factors influencing timing among species, but these times vary throughout the world. Pick almost any month and you can probably find some place where some species is expected to spawn, especially as one crosses the equator. But even within species, geography seems to play a role. The magnificent elkhorn coral of the western Atlantic, for example, is known to spawn a month earlier in the Florida Keys than it does in Bonaire, and with slightly different timing. In Bonaire, the fourth or fifth night after a September full moon is the anticipated time, while in Florida it has been two to four nights following the August full moon. Punctuality is also important, given that some species conclude their spawning activities in a matter of minutes, although most last for more than 30.

Returning to my position adjacent the massive branches of an old elkhorn colony, a slender arrow crab tip-toes by with a sideways glance of indifference to me. It’s just after 9 PM and the symphony has begun. Having waited patiently with mouths full, the polyps now evict the cumbersome bundles in a wave that spreads rapidly across the colony. In no time it seems this is a cue to surrounding colonies as a silent crescendo builds, filling the water column with millions of tiny spheres. The sea momentarily resembles a glass of bubbling champagne as I sweep my light about the reef; I am amazed at how quickly a slick begins to form at the surface. The darting fishes are now whizzing by, frenzied and gorging themselves on the annual delicacy presented to them. Off western Australia, large numbers of huge, planktivorous whale sharks reportedly show for that annual event. But the corals’ strategy appears to be a good one, as there are far more eggs floating about than critters to eat them.

The patient conductor of this silent symphony, however, goes unseen and largely unknown. While the long-term cues for synchronicity seem to do with the moon phase and sea temperature, some researchers think the finer minute-by-minute controls among colonies may have to do with a water-borne signal emitted during the final stages of development and release. And within colonies, control may be further mediated by rapid intercellular communications.

As the release of eggs trickle to an end, I check my dive partner (her eyes smiling behind tempered glass), and then my gauges. Although we have been in the water for some time, I still have plenty of air in reserve. Two factors work to your advantage here: some of the best mass-spawning occurs in less than 30 feet of water (even snorkelers can enjoy this activity), and, for most, night diving has a calming effect as many of the sights to be seen will present themselves to you, rather than you swimming about in search of something that piques your interest. From large eels to cryptic minutia, chances are you won’t travel as far at night to see them. So as we surface with air to spare, we pause to inspect the floating masses of pinkish eggs, and it occurs to me that they will not stay this color for long.

Color is another aspect of corals that hints toward their fascinating life histories and how they are exquisitely adapted to their delicate environment. Ever wonder why some of these animals look so much like plants with their branching forms that seem always to be reaching beyond areas of shade, as do leaves of a tree? Many of the colors you see, especially when observing the large reef-builders, come from tiny single-celled algae living symbiotically within their tissues. Here, living in the outer layers, algae are exposed to the sunlight they need, and return favor by supplying corals with compounds essential to their health.

Researchers are still unraveling the complexities of algal-host associations, but it has become clear that for many corals, this symbiosis is necessary for proper skeletal growth, and thus reef growth. (A coral which loses its algal symbionts during times of stress may not survive long without them. Such individuals are described as “bleached” since their tissues now lack color pigments, and soon resemble the bone-white pieces you find on the beach. Various factors may cause coral bleaching, but increased sea temperature is believed chief among them.) The pinkish, floating babies of the elkhorn will soon take on the color of a colony as they settle and transform into their adult form, culturing a new crop of algae as they do.

As we return to shore, the dive-talk is lively and everyone is feeling invigorated rather than tired. It is a good thing, too, because the evening is just beginning for the developing coral larvae and those who study them. The larvae will soon expel much of the fatty substance that floated them to the surface, allowing them to sink in the open waters where they will develop weak swimming behaviors and ride the currents. In as little as a few days, these tiny, spindle-shaped larvae will begin searching for a place to attach to the sea floor and begin the next stage of their life cycle.

But the Atlantic is a deep ocean, the Caribbean an expansive sea. How does a minute larva know where to settle on the sea floor? Once it begins cementing a hard skeleton to the bottom, it is committed. Too deep and there will be no light for their crop of algae; too shallow and they may not be near other colonies of their kind, leaving them unable to mass-spawn. As has been discovered, coral larvae possess tiny chemical receptors that work much the way our smell receptors work when we distinguish between the various foods we eat.

After many experiments, researchers have found that the sequence of events initiating settlement behavior and growth into the adult life form is triggered when larvae “smell” a certain type of algae common to coral reefs. The alga of choice is usually a thin, encrusting form (often purple or reddish in color) readily found on the undersides of corals and covering coral rubble. Curiously, these “crusty” algae do such a good job of holding coral rubble and other bits together that they themselves are credited as important members of the reef-building community. By cementing smaller pieces together, they stabilize the substrate long enough for the miniscule coral larva to cement its own sturdy base and begin a new colony. A fine strategy by the coral larva, especially when considering that their attachment responses are best elicited by particular species of encrusting algae; the strongest responses often come from algae whose depth of distribution is common to that of the adult coral’s habitat.

Not that you need to keep all these facts in mind to enjoy a night dive. However, as is often a consequence of new knowledge or insight, I find myself having a deeper appreciation for the amazing reef communities that embrace these beautiful islands. As demonstrated in the life history strategy of the corals, life on the reef is woven together inextricably; a community, indeed, as overall health and success can be quite dependent on individual members. So next time you think your night life is getting complicated, think of the corals, or go for a night dive. And don’t forget to make plans for next summer’s events. (Rumor has it that dive charters to see coral spawn at the Flower Gardens Bank of Texas have a two year waiting list.)

Editor’s Note: The exact dates and timing of this event have yet to be documented for the Turks & Caicos, although it is estimated to take place the week after the eighth full moon of the year between 9 and 11 PM.

It’s not really that rare an event once you get the schedule: just a few nights later I was treated to another, more dramatic show by the massive boulder corals–the timing even more impeccable as their little mouths yawned in synchrony, releasing their pearly beads of life.

Author Dan Martin spends most of his time as a research associate in marine science. He is currently working on a long-term krill project in Antarctica, jelly fish in the Gulf of Mexico, and teaching freshman biology. He spent several seasons assisting the Morse lab at the University of California, Santa Barbara, with their investigations of larval coral settlement cues–work that may someday allow us to “re-seed” damaged reefs.

St. James Condominium Residences

While the Grace Bay “Cold Coast” is inundated with new condominium developments, there are few alternatives for people whose preferences lie beyond the beach and towards the other pleasures offered in the Islands.

St. James Condominium Residences seek to fill this niche.

The oceanfront property is located on an ideal part of the Leeward Going Through channel at the far eastern tip of Providenciales. This excellent location creates for every residence unobstructed views of the vibrant green shoreline of Little Water Cay and Mangrove Cay and the vivid ocean blue beyond. From St. James’ private boardwalk dock, owners will have easy access to the north and south shores of Providenciales, opening a year-round world of water and boating activities.

St. James condominiums offer rare value on an island where prices seem to rise with each high tide. The project will be built to luxury market specifications, yet is competitively priced. Best of all, the 8 1/2 acre site is spacious and private, with plenty of breathing room for residents.

I spoke recently with Richard Sankar, real estate agent for St. James, who explained that he is so enthusiastic about the project that he plans to live there himself. Richard is typical of the owners St. James is expected to attract. He says, “Condominiums grow more appealing every year, as lifestyles change, people travel more frequently, and generally lack the time to care for a home. We also anticipate strong interest from recreational boaters and, of course, retirees (early and otherwise) who are looking for a part-time second home. The St. James is the kind of place where you can get to know your neighbors, because its emphasis will not be on short-term vacation rentals.”

The project comprises only 44 suites of two- and three-bedroom configuration. There are two, four story buildings, built along 550 feet of waterfront and boasting several unique features. Stretching along the shoreline is the boardwalk with attached docking for owners’ boats. Adjacent to the waterfront is a palm-lined park area with a beautiful crescent-shaped pool, with both a stair-accessed shallow end and an Olympic-length lap lane. Curling around the pool is a sunning terrace, gently shaded by Roman-style pergolas and small islands of greenery which extend into the pool itself.

The buildings, described by architect Jeff Lee of the local firm OBM Limited as “Mediterranean with elements of Caribbean style,” are accessed via a tree-lined asphalt avenue leading 300 feet from the main roadway past a security gate. The road splits toward each building at a cascading fountain roundabout.

Buyers can choose suites on each floor from various sizes and layouts, ranging from the “Windsor” — 1,661 sq. ft. with 2 bedrooms and 2 1/2 baths–to the majestic “Knightsbridge”–2,650 sq. ft. penthouse level with 3 bedrooms and 3 1/2 baths. Each suite includes covered balconies on two sides, while the “Stratford” penthouses have two additional open verandahs for sunning. Floor plans are spacious and carefully designed to ensure privacy and enhance livability. All suites feature central air conditioning, nine foot ceilings with fans in bedrooms and living rooms and high-end appliances and cabinetry. Master baths boast Jacuzzi whirlpool tubs. High impact glass in windows and doors avoids the need for separate and unsightly storm shutters while providing added safety.

Accenting their airy blue- and green-hued views, interiors sport sleek shades of gray with chestnut accents. Residences are not sold pre-furnished to allow owners the flexibility to customize, but suggested furniture and design packages will be available.

The experienced Caribbean developers thought long and hard about the project and, working alongside the architect, created one of the best building designs on Providenciales, while providing high-end quality and amenities that are yet to be rivaled. Jeff Lee says, “The developers had a number of objectives, one of which was to have low unit density and to provide for a spacious, landscaped park environment. There were also concerns that the features be practical for people who plan to live here for most of the year. The air-conditioned gym is full sized and the tennis court is flood-lit for night play. They also required that the design include two elevators in each building–a unique approach that limits waiting–and a porte cochere that is centrally located in front of each building, creating ease of access for owners and guests.”

Other thoughtful features include large storage lockers in a separate building (so as not to restrict space in the living areas) and a fenced “pooch park.” There is also a peaceful spa garden and dipping pool where residents can go to relax or have treatments done by the on-call massage therapist. Walking paths span the park-like grounds. On-site management and maintenance services will keep owners worry-free.

The St. James’ distinctive location is destined to attract nature lovers. Located across the shore is Little Water Cay–home to the Turks & Caicos Rock Iguana–and neighboring Mangrove Cay, a protected nature preserve, with birds and marine life of all kinds.

St. James residents will have a front seat view–from their suites, within the grounds and from the boardwalk–of every aspect of the natural Turks & Caicos environment. Early risers will be treated to ethereal sunrises, while the upper floor suites will boast views of the entire Caicos chain and spectacular moonrises, as well.

Construction is expected to start in early 2003, with local firm BCQS Ltd., construction and property consultants with offices in the Turks & Caicos since 1974, chosen as project managers. Dempsey & Company, the country’s longest established legal firm, provides legal representation. St. James sales and marketing is exclusively handled by Richard Sankar, Ron Burton and Gino Pacitto of Prestigious Properties Ltd., a pioneer in the TCI real estate market and the country’s largest real estate firm.

Potential owners can view a virtual reality tour of the property to help them visualize the St. James’ anticipated charms. Pre-construction prices were still in effect at press time and Sankar anticipates strong early sales as the marketplace recognizes the rare opportunity the St. James offers. For more information, visit www.StJames.tc.

Remember the anticipation as the year 2000 approached? It seemed that we all expected something spectacular, but alas, it turned out to be just another birthday for Mother Earth . . . Or was it?

Whereas none of the widely forecast catastrophic events occurred, it may well be that major changes were, in fact, taking place–we just didn’t notice at the time.

The changes to which I am referring are economic in nature. The world’s financial markets have taken on a decidedly different tone since the big clock struck 2000. Let’s look at some facts: In the first quarter of the year 2000, the major indices of the U.S. stock market (and most of the rest of the world for that matter) reached all-time high levels, possibly marking the end of the greatest bull market in financial assets in the history of mankind. Why the end? Well, as of late summer 2002, the Dow Jones Industrial Average has declined roughly 25%, the Standard & Poors (S&P) 500 has dropped 40% and the tech-heavy Nasdaq has plunged a dazzling 77%.

There’s more. The U.S. dollar, which has been the world’s currency of choice for many years, seems also to have peaked and as of August, 2002, is down more than 12% from its high against a basket of the world’s other currencies, principally the euro, the Japanese yen and the British pound. Corporate earnings are down, the U.S. trade deficit is through the roof and debt levels, both government and private sectors are setting mind boggling high standards. Interest rates, on the other hand, have been driven to multi-year lows.

So what does this all mean and how might it affect you and me?
From an investment perspective, it may mean that we need to change our expectations and our strategy. Economies have always been cyclical; expansion and contraction is as normal as the breathing of a human being. Inhale, exhale. Now whereas the economic expansion of the 1980s and 1990s was at a rate that was no better than average (it was longer than normal), the stock market–inspired by pie-in-the-sky, dot-com fantasies–soared, generating rates of return that were 200 to 300% of the long term average. This “mania” produced an extreme level of overvaluation and it seems that it is now “time to pay the piper.”

In spite of the substantial correction that has already taken place, many argue that stocks are still overvalued and thus not likely to generate great future returns like those of the 1990s. One of the world’s most highly regarded investment gurus, Sir John Templeton, recently offered that “none of the world’s equity markets are currently presenting great values.”

The statistics seem to support that view: The century-long average price-to-earnings (P/E) ratio of blue chip common stocks is approximately 14. The S&P 500 index currently (July) sports a lofty P/E of 26. And worse, if the collective earnings of those 500 companies are re-stated on the more conservative (and more accurate) GAAP basis, the ratio jumps to a frightening 40!

Talking about conservative reporting, one of the key contributors to the “bursting of the stock market bubble” is a loss of trust and confidence on the part of investors. And who can blame them? Enron/Arthur Anderson, Worldcom, Global Crossing, Xerox and countless other examples of creative accounting have produced understandable skepticism.

So this, combined with the effect of increased terrorism and global political confrontation, has put the brakes on global economic growth to at least a much slower pace, if not outright decline.

The response of the U.S. Federal Reserve has been the typical dropping of interest rates and turning on of the dollar printing press. This flood of liquidity has cushioned the blow, but has come at the expense of the value of the U.S. dollar. By definition, this action (by the Federal Reserve) is inflationary and whereas there are no signs of price inflation (CPI), the currency is certainly being diluted.

So what is an investor to do? Here’s the good news: No matter what the economic/market conditions may be, there are always good opportunities. Finding them, though, requires constant vigilance and creative thinking.

Historically, the price of gold has been a good hedge against weakening currencies and there is a groundswell of believers developing. During the 1970s, the dollar was under some pressure: Viet Nam, Nixon resigned and the last major spike in inflation, which peaked in 1980-81, was triggered by the Arab oil embargo. Gold responded with a rally from a low of $36 per ounce in 1970 to its 1980 all-time high of $850 per ounce.

This writer has seen a number of recent essays predicting below-average rates of return for stocks over the next several years and as previously stated, the downside risk is probably not gone either. If this turns out to be true, the focus of successful investors will likely be on more conservative portfolios that are much more heavily weighted to bonds and other fixed income or dividend paying instruments. A global currency diversification will surely also be popular, as will investing/speculating in gold and other precious metals (the next mania?). Hedge funds that do not depend on rising markets for positive returns are now in vogue as well.

Lower rates of return will also impact spending habits and as the consumer pulls in his horns, the concept of actually saving money might be re-discovered.

After an era that has incorporated many excesses, (consumer spending, debt–both private and government, “creative accounting,” CEO compensation, stock valuations, Wall Street research that was tailored for corporate finance needs, insider trading, (ad infinitum), financial services companies are going to have to work very hard to earn and maintain the trust of their clients.

Story and Photos by David Bowen, Cultural Officer, Turks & Caicos Tourist Board

I can still recall the day I was reintroduced to the sweet, unique sound of ripsaw music. It was exactly two weeks to the day since I had moved back to Grand Turk after being away for close to 20 years. There was some kind of party going on in the Over Back settlement and I happened to be driving on Lighthouse Road on my way back home. As I made the turn on Duncombe’s Alley, I saw a group of guys sitting on a wall banging on a drum, scraping a saw, hitting on a few bottles and singing at the top of their lungs the old folk song, “Uncle Lou.”

“Did you see Uncle Lou
When he fall in the well
Oh, Oh Uncle Lou when he fall in the well.
He fell so deep,
til he went straight to hell
Oh, Oh Uncle Lou
when he fall in the well.”

Being a musician myself, I was drawn to the music and immediately struck by how powerful the sounds of these simple instruments were. I sat and listened for close to two hours and even ended up tapping out a rhythm on an old beer bottle with a nail, but it was the saw player that really held my interest. The simple, but ingenious way he got high and low sounds by bending the saw to extreme angles while “ripping” out a rhythm with an old knife across the teeth of the saw was fascinating. Every once in a while, I was able to hear the wobbled over tones produced by the hitting, bending and scraping that really made the music come alive.

I left those guys playing on that wall and I sang all the way home, very much moved by the experience of hearing my native music once again. I even got out the old saw from the shed in my grandmother’s back yard and quickly discovered that “ripsaw” was as much fun to play as it was to listen to.

What is Ripsaw Music?
Ripsaw music is the national music of the Turks & Caicos Islands. Accompanied by instruments such as the accordion, concertina, goat and cow skin drums, triangle, shakers (maracas), box guitar and conga drums, the common carpenter saw is used as the featured instrument, producing a rhythmic foundation for the rest of band.

The term “ripsaw” comes from the local name for the handsaw. The term also refers to the “ripping” sound produced by the action of passing a metal object called the “scraper” (usually an old knife) along the side of the saw’s teeth. The resulting sound is similar to that of paper being torn or ripped. There are several theories as to why the carpenter saw was used as an instrument and like all indigenous folk music, our ripsaw is the product of the passion of a people looking for a way to produce sound and music with available materials.

According to one theory, the natives of the Turks & Caicos were exposed to the music of the Dominican Republic and Haiti through trade. Both of these countries have a vibrant cultural heritage where music plays a major role. Their use of instruments such as the accordion, Guido, grater and round goat or cow skin drums, called conga or tambou, influenced the music and musicians of the Turks & Caicos. Due to a lack of natural resources and materials in the Islands to reproduce the instruments, our ancestors found ways to make square and round drums which were heated over a fire to tighten and tune the skin and they duplicated the ripping and scraping sound of the Guido by using the jagged edges of the saw.

Another theory states that the slaves of the Loyalists who fled the United States and settled in the Caicos Islands brought saw playing here. These slaves reproduced on the saw the sound of their native African instrument, the Shekere (pronounced Shaker-ray) and made simple hand drums to duplicate the sound of the Djembe (pronounced Jem-bay).

Ripsaw and Rake & Scrape Local ripsaw band “Eat Mullets & Play Music”
There is much debate as to the origin of the use of the saw, but it is safe to say that our style of Ripsaw music originated and developed in the Caicos Islands–Middle and North Caicos in particular. According to local musician and cultural historian Lovey Forbes, it is in these Islands where we find the roots of our native cultural explosion. To this day, most the best drummers and ripsaw players come from Middle and North Caicos.

The Bahamas has also claimed ownership to ripsaw but Junkanoo is considered their national music. Their version of Ripsaw is called Rake & Scrape, a term which describes the action and method of playing the saw by the musician. (He “rakes” and “scrapes.”) As our countries share a common history and cultural heritage, it is difficult to dispute claims by either side. However this much is clear, Ripsaw music is played on every inhabited island of the Turks & Caicos and is nationally celebrated as a Turks & Caicos cultural art form.

Cat Island is the only Bahamian Family Island that celebrates “Rake & Scrape” on a grand scale. The whole island is involved in the annual Cat Island Rake and Scrape music festival during the Bahamian Labor Day holiday in June. The Turks & Caicos have strong ties to Cat Island, where many of our people settled during the lean years here at home. Eris Moncur, president of the Cat Island Rake & Scrape Festival Committee and local historian, himself is a descendent of the Stubbs family of the Turks & Caicos. In the Cat Island festival, only the saw, concertina and conga drum are used as the main instruments for the contest.

Cultural Exodus
The movement of a people from one country to another is bound to affect the culture and cultural development of the host country. During the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s, on invitation from the Bahamian government who was looking for laborers and contract workers to augment their work force, there was a mass exodus from the Turks & Caicos Islands to the Bahamas. Since things were tough in those days, many Islanders left looking for a better life in Inagua, Cat Island, Nassau and Pine Ridge in Grand Bahama.

As the Bahamian economy grew, many choose to remain and settle in the Bahamas and sent for their families to join them. Naturally they took with them all aspects of their cultural heritage, such as ripsaw music, folk songs, stories and ring games. Over time, this has woven itself into the cultural fabric and folklore of the Bahamas.

Bahamian music and culture was highly influenced by Turks & Caicos natives and their music. It was amazing to discover that so many “Bahamian” musical stars are actually native Turks & Caicos Islanders and many others are first generation descendants of Turks Island workers. For many years it was difficult to be a Turks Islander in the Bahamas. Many of our people held their tongues and claimed Bahamian roots to avoid ridicule, prosecution and deportation.
Bahamians are often surprised to discover that many of their local artists and musicians are indeed Turks Islanders. The #1 gospel group in the Bahamas, The Cooling Waters, are all Turks Islanders. Singing stars and musicians like Marvin Handfield, Count Bernardino, Perry Delancy, Leo Jones, Sly Roker and Bradley Dean, just to name a few, are all native Turks & Caicos Islanders who helped shape the Bahamian music scene.

In recent years, with the return of many Belongers and their descendants from the Bahamas due to the economic boom we are now experiencing in the Turks & Caicos, there are bound to be significant cultural changes in music, dance and entertainment as these “T.I.–Bahamians” are in effect reintroducing a hybrid of Turks & Caicos culture in the form of Bahamian-style calypso and Junkanoo. Bahamian Junkanoo is now influencing our local festivals. Junkanoo parades were known as “Massin” or “Jump Up” in the early years and the groups were mainly made up of ripsaw musicians. Now, cowbells, whistles and a brass section have replaced the saw, accordion, shakers, conch shells and glass bottles.

The two biggest and most popular Junkanoo groups are the We Funk Junkanoo Group led by Kitchener Penn and The Predators led by Wesley “Tanka” Williams. Both were involved with the top groups in Nassau and Freeport and when they returned home to the TCI brought with them the cowbells, horns and big bass drums of the exciting, colorful Bahamian-style Junkanoo that has now added a new dimension to Turks & Caicos Junkanoo.

Playing the saw is not as easy as might appear to the casual observer. One must have an incredible sense of rhythm, strong hands and stamina. The saw is held handle side up by the support hand with the teeth facing away from the body. The narrow tapered end is braced on the outside or inside of the player’s thigh. Many players choose to cover this part of the saw to avoid their clothes or skin from being cut by the blade.

The working hand holds the scraper, usually an old kitchen knife but screwdrivers, long nails and bits of strong wire have been used. The thigh acts as a brace for the saw and the support hand bends and adjusts the tone as the working hand scrapes the scraper over the teeth in time to the music.

Many first time players make the mistake of using the whole arm of the working side and tend to tire easily. According to Desmond “Dez” Misick, a local drummer and saw player, the trick is to use only the wrist to cut down on fatigue. This will enable a player to play a full show, which usually lasts between two to three hours.

When playing in a band, it’s also important to choose the right type of saw. Lovey Forbes suggests an 11 point saw with its fine teeth. The lower the points, the coarser the teeth and deeper the “Rip;” it is also a more difficult saw to play. The higher the points, the finer the teeth and the “Rip” is smoother and easier to maintain.

If saw playing is not your calling, there are many other instruments that can accompany a band. In a typical ripsaw band of yesteryear, the main instruments were the saw, the goatskin drum and the accordion or concertina. Over the years, the name “concertina” has been used to describe the accordion but they are two different instruments. They both use air to produce the sound and are similar to bellows in their construction, but their shape, size and keys are very different. The concertina is a lightweight, six-sided instrument with a keyboard a little larger then the size of a man’s hand. There are between 10 to 30 keys or knobs on each side, laid out in rows of five. Both the melody and chords are played with both hands. The accordion is much larger and heavier. It needs to be strapped on the player for support. The melody is played with the right hand on a piano-like keyboard and the bass and chords use knobs on the left.

Additional instruments such as the box guitar, harmonica, triangle, shakers, glass bottle, tin canister, conch horn, homemade tinhorns and the simple comb and paper we call “mouth organ” were all played. According to Mr. Samuel Simmons of Salt Cay, James “Jaimsee” Bassett played trumpet and jazz horn in their Salt Cay ripsaw band.
Nowadays, the electric guitar and keyboard have replaced the accordion and concertina as the lead instruments and the bass guitar and drum set make up the rhythm section, but through all these changes, the saw has maintained its place as the binding glue and rhythmic support for the band.

It is interesting to note that H.E. Sadler, on page 278 of his book, Turks Islands Landfall, refers to a local “steel band,” but does not list the steel pan among the instruments, all of which are those played in ripsaw music, so he was obviously referring to a “ripsaw band.” It is only in the last few years that the steel pan has become a part of the local music scene. It began with Allison Williams and the wonderful Provo Primary Steel Band and really made an impact with the Clement Howell High School Steel Band, under the skillful direction of music teacher Kenton Wyatt. The H.J. Robinson High School joined the trend by forming a steel band in 2001 under the direction of Mrs. Lyons, a music teacher from Trinidad.

The Saw and the Wider World
Beyond the boundaries of the Bahamian and Turks & Caicos archipelago, the saw was used to some degree in local folk music in the U.S., Europe and the Eastern Caribbean. I’ve discovered saw playing in the Caribbean island of Antigua, the “hillbilly” community of the Southern U.S.A. and, much to my surprise, Quebec, Canada.

One day, when discussing local culture and ripsaw music with Marielle and Serge Tuyssuzian, who run the Turks Head Brewery, I was quite surprised to learn that saw playing existed in Canada. The French-Canadians have a style of ripsaw music called Equoine (pronounced Aqwin). Accompanied by the violin and spoons, the saw functions as a rhythmic support for the other instruments.
In Europe, the saw was used but it was the smooth edge that was played. Instead of a scraper, a bow like those used to play the violin was used. These saws could actually play melodies and were used mainly as a solo instrument. I plan to follow up my research on the use of the saw in music throughout the world in hopes of putting on a truly international saw festival right here in the Turks & Caicos Islands.

The Future of Ripsaw in the Turks & Caicos
Like most of our cultural heritage, ripsaw is now being rediscovered and appreciated by the local and expatriate population. I have big plans and dreams to expose ripsaw music to a wider audience and encourage the youth of the country to learn and develop ripsaw and take it to the next level.

Mr. Lovey Forbes has already begun a new style of ripsaw called “Combina” music. The concept came about in 1981 and the term “Combina” comes from the word combination with the “tion” removed, giving it that cultural T.I. feel and dialect. Mr. Forbes has taken the basic rhythm and sound of the saw and incorporated it into different styles of music such as reggae, pop, blues, country, gospel and calypso.

Combina music came about through a conscious effort on the part of Mr. Forbes to fuse the musical taste of our truly international population. Lovey also started a Ripsaw Jamboree to showcase the saw and its players. His son Correy held a Jamboree in North Caicos in 1995 with the hope of enticing saw players to form new bands. Bernard Been held a Junior Festival in Grand Turk in 1999 with groups from Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Grand Turk in hope of enticing the youth to take up saw playing and refocus on local cultural music as a balance for their fascination with American hip hop and rap music.

These men and these events were on the right track to promoting and exposing the ripsaw to the younger generation. Though it is important to have freedom of choice, I truly feel that our youth should be exposed from an early age to the positive aspects of their indigenous culture. This will instill pride and appreciation for their country and culture and they will be able to better manage their passion, fascination and understanding of the music and lifestyles of other cultures.

The summer of 2003 will see a spectacular performance of ripsaw music during the First Annual Turks & Caicos Ripsaw Festival. There will be bands from each island participating in this two-day event. A ripsaw competition will be held for the younger bands with cash prizes and trophies going to the best saw player, the best drummer, the best original song and, of course, the best overall band.

This festival will be a long overdue celebration of Turks & Caicos culture and ripsaw music. Liam McGuire, who held the post of Minister of Tourism from 1976-1980, realized the importance of ripsaw as a vehicle for tourism by having a band greet visitors at the airport and play for special guests at the Admiral Arms Hotel in South Caicos. I hope to revive the passion of this native music and to once again have ripsaw bands play at the airports and hotels throughout the Turks & Caicos.

I encourage you to contact me in care of the Turks & Caicos Tourist Board with names and information on other ripsaw musicians, so that my list will continue to grow and these special persons become an integral part of our cultural consciousness.

Guests at Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort and Spa come to enjoy the crystal-clear turquoise ocean, fresh sea breezes and sugar-sand beach, all of which are TCI trademarks. Little do they know that extensive, behind-the-scene efforts are underway at the popular all-inclusive resort to help keep the Turks & Caicos’ beautiful natural environment intact.

Since the spring of 2001, Beaches Turks & Caicos management and staff have been working towards becoming the country’s first Green Globe certified resort. If all goes according to plan, Rooms Division Manager Clive Edwards says he expects the property to earn the certification by early 2003.

Green Globe 21 is a global environmental program for the travel and tourism industry, part of a larger action supporting sustainable development adopted by 182 governments at the United Nations Earth Summit in 1992. It works by providing the industry with a framework for achieving year by year improvement in key environmental areas, including efficient management of energy and water resources; waste minimization, reuse and recycling; and storage and use of hazardous materials, and encompasses social and cultural issues, as well. Companies that have been certified to the Green Globe 21 standard are entitled to use the “brand” to promote their environmental achievements.
Beaches Turks & CaicosThe corporate initiative was piloted by Beaches Turks & Caicos General Manager Jeremy Jones, who had previous experience with the Green Globe program when he managed the Swept Away Resort in Jamaica, a property which is now Green Globe certified. Jones says, “Since our inception in 1997 as TCI’s largest resort, the management of Beaches Turks & Caicos has recognized its important role in protecting and enhancing the natural environment for the benefit of both guests and island residents.”

Following the lead of a successful pilot program at the corporation’s Sandals Negril Beach Resort and Spa, the process here began with a visit by group Environmental Manager Richard May in April 2001. He conducted a preliminary audit using the Green Globe Standard Checklist and found that the resort was nearly 50% of the way towards meeting requirements for certification. It helped that Beaches was naturally environmentally friendly, with the ocean fronting the property protected as Princess Alexandra National Park and the use of “gray” water for irrigation purposes built into the infrastructure. Clive Edwards was exposed to Green Globe requirements by Richard May and the resort focused its sights on developing and implementing an action-oriented environment management system (EMS) which would become incorporated into all day-to-day operating procedures.

Green Globe was launched to staff in May 2001, with the goal of educating Beaches team members that there would be a drive towards operating with concern for the environment. A general environmental policy was endorsed and displayed in all departments. Edwards says that staff awareness is the key to putting the program into practice. “Not only does the staff have to implement the procedures on a daily basis, they also have to be able to explain them to guests when necessary.”

Soon afterwards, target assessments were created for the various departments. Each listed specific actions for meeting environmental goals and assigned responsibility for getting things done. “In this way,” Edwards explains, “the Green Globe program became a hands-on activity, in which each staff member was able to contribute in some way.” For instance, to improve water use efficiency, the Engineering Department repaired leaky faucets and toilet tanks, began replacing existing toilets and showerheads with water saving models, and installed automatic shut-off faucets and hose nozzles where appropriate. The Food & Beverage Department tackled the same goal with such actions as installing aerators on kitchen taps and pedal pumps where feasible, discontinuing automatic filling of water goblets in the dining rooms, cutting down on the use of ice in buffet lines and eliminating the use of ice carvings.

To improve the efficiency of electricity use, measures were undertaken such as installing energy saving and low wattage bulbs and asking room attendants to keep doors closed while cleaning rooms and to check that windows and sliding doors are kept closed tightly. In the laundry, dryers are operated on a low heat cycle and lint filters are cleaned between each cycle. Staff was asked to turn off computers, air conditioners and copy machines when not in use.

Other actions targeted the reduction of solid waste and use of plastic. Towards this end, all styrofoam containers were prohibited and pitchers replaced individual creamer packages in the dining rooms. The resort is examining the possibility of sending “green waste” from the kitchen and bar to a compost site, which would provide virtually free, natural fertilizer for the property’s lush tropical gardens. Even the office staff can make a difference, by using the backside of copy paper when possible.

To reduce the amount of chemicals entering the wastewater system, baking soda is now used to clean ovens and kitchen sink drains. Bleach use is reduced in laundry and housekeeping and an expanded line of environmentally friendly, phosphate-free cleaning products has been introduced.

Part of the Green Globe program includes nurturing the social and cultural environment of the local community. Beaches Turks & Caicos was a step ahead of the program in this respect, with a long-standing policy of inviting local craft vendors to display and sell their wares, promoting local tours and hiring local musicians for guest entertainment. At the same time, management continuously makes strong efforts to hire whenever possible qualified members of the local community and regularly sponsors training and educational programs.

Paramount to the success of Green Globe is the ability to monitor utilities consumption and solid waste disposal, not only to measure and quantify results, but to detect unusual shifts in usage that may indicate leaks or malfunctions. Fortunately, Beaches Turks & Caicos already had meters in place, as well as a management information system that could serve as an EMS tool to analyze daily electricity, water, diesel oil and liquid petroleum gas use. Monthly monitoring forms distributed to the various departments helped track usage more specifically.

By the time an internal audit was conducted several months later, compliance with the Green Globe standards had improved tremendously. The resort scored a 72%, with the pass level being 70%. As a result, Edwards is confident that following an official inspection next year, Beaches Turks & Caicos will become another one of the seven resorts in the Sandals chain that is Green Globe certified.

How do guests react to the program? Edwards explains that since many measures are unobtrusive, they don’t affect the Beaches sumptuous vacation experience in any way. And when given a choice, he says, the guests are generally positive towards making the environmentally friendly decision. The environmental policy is included in the guest services directory and during orientation, guests are briefed on the fact that environmental measures are being taken and that they have the voluntary option of reusing linens and towels.

The response is especially favorable from European visitors, who have long valued the importance of reducing, reusing and recycling. “In fact,” Edwards states, “in a few years I believe Europeans won’t visit a hotel unless it is environmentally friendly.” Education is paramount, and the goal is that eventually, travel agents will inform their customers whether or not a property is Green Globe certified.

Staff awareness proved to be an area requiring focused attention. A “green board” was established in the staff canteen and there is a “Green Team” for which all departments can appoint a member to champion the cause. Posters were created to remind employees of the need for commitment to all environmental efforts. For the future, Edwards says, recognition awards for the “most environmentally aware” team members are planned as incentives.

Besides helping to keep the Turks & Caicos “green” (and blue), Beaches’ environmental management program is expected to reap cost savings. Following initial outlays for equipment and supplies upgrades and replacements, putting a Green Globe program into place has been shown to significantly reduce a property’s long-term operating costs. For instance, the pilot program at Sandals Negril helped the property save over $1.4 million (Jamaican) since its inception.

With strong support from the Turks & Caicos Hotel & Tourism Association, Beaches Turks & Caicos is eager to lead the way for other island businesses and add the Green Globe accolade to its many awards and distinctions. And perhaps in terms of long-term sustainability of the allure of the property itself and the naturally beautiful destination in which it is located, this achievement will be among Beaches Turks and Caicos’ most important legacies.