On December 15, 2001, The Alexandra Resort & Spa opened the first of its beachfront buildings, The Chelsea, as scheduled, to the delight of its first eager visitors. This princess of a property includes 32 one and two bedroom oceanfront suites, all holding court on world-renowned Grace Bay Beach and fronting the sparkling turquoise seas of namesake Princess Alexandra Marine Park.

As promised, on December 1, 2002, the pool and beachfront restaurant, The Orchid Bar & Grill, made their debut, adding to the list of amenities the property has to offer. The one-of-a-kind, “figure eight” shaped pool includes a bridge-accessed center island complete with a children’s pool and play area. Underwater air jets make it easy for swimmers to “go with the flow.” The pool also features partially submerged “body benches” as a refreshing way to sun, a water volleyball court and a swim-up bar. This entire recreation area is lushly landscaped with dozens of mature palms and colorful foliage, the hard work of local landscaping firm, Environmental Arts.The Alexandra Pool

Future plans for The Alexandra have branched from its original timeshare-only resort concept. For several reasons, the 10-acre site will now include three buildings devoted to 40 full ownership condominiums, four buildings for 68 vacation ownership suites and one building set aside as a 60 to 70 room boutique hotel. Developer and project CEO C. Washington Misick explains the change in plans, “After we opened, we had a number of guests who were overjoyed by the property and wanted to spend more than the one or two weeks here that are typical of timeshare ownership. Other folks were eager to make a full investment in a condominium unit. So we decided to set apart one area of the development for private residences. Condo owners will share in all the resort’s amenities, yet enjoy an added degree of privacy as ‘The Residences of Alexandra’ will be strictly for access by condominium owners and their guests (or renters).”

The proposed hotel came about in similar fashion, adds Misick. “Due to its prime location on the beach, several upscale hoteliers have expressed interest in the property. I feel this is in our best interest, for it not only enhances our recognition, but also signals our commitment to maintaining The Alexandra at a high level.”

The mixed usage development offers the added benefit of keeping condominium owners’ annual maintenance fees among the lowest on the island for properties of this caliber. Misick explains, “Because the maintenance expenses of the buildings and grounds are shared, we can keep fees at a reasonable level.” A timeshare property’s typically high occupancy, compared to the more seasonal fluctuations of a hotel can help support amenities such as the restaurant and spa year-around.

The Residences of The Alexandra

Cunningly named after orchid varieties (The Alexandra’s logo), the three, four-story condominium buildings will house studio, one and two bedroom units ranging in size from 800 to nearly 4,000 square feet (penthouses). The Lady Rose building will be oceanfront, with suites in the Prima Donna and Josephine buildings offering ocean and pool views. All mirror the well-designed floor plans of the existing building, with spacious tiled terraces and living/dining areas and master bedrooms set to the front, to take full advantage of the breathtaking views. Some units offer a studio lockout option for easy rental. All are elevator accessible.

In-room comforts include quality furnishings, central air conditioning and ceiling fans, generous closet space, granite kitchen countertops and high-grade appliances in the fully equipped kitchens, luxury ensuite bathrooms and large color televisions with DVD player and an additional TV in each bedroom.

Vacation Ownership Suites

Besides the existing beachfront building, three additional oceanview, poolside buildings will house vacation ownership suites. Timesharing is a concept that allows vacationers to buy “time,” in weekly increments, at a resort such as The Alexandra. The one-time purchase price (for a 75 year membership) is a fraction of the cost of purchasing a condominium, but the quality and size of accommodations and the resort’s amenities are the same as you’d expect at any upscale condominium development.

As the first and only “timeshare” resort in the Turks & Caicos, The Alexandra set high standards from the start. Affiliated with Resort Condominiums International (RCI), a premier vacation exchange network, The Alexandra is ranked as a Gold Crown property–a select RCI resort (in the top 10%) with the highest level of excellence in accommodation and hospitality. Besides the restaurant and pool, amenities planned for The Alexandra include an on-site spa/fitness center/beauty salon, lighted tennis courts, scuba diving and watersports, gift shop and gourmet coffee shop.

Although The Alexandra timeshare owners are guaranteed that their suite will be available at their selected time every year, they have great flexibility in using that time. It can be “lent” to family or friends, rented to other vacationers, “banked” (saved for two years), borrowed upon from the year ahead, or even resold. But among the most exciting options are the travel opportunities available via “exchange” with other properties in the RCI network. As a Gold Crown property, with a seaside location in an unspoiled, upscale Caribbean destination, time purchased at The Alexandra is worth the ultimate in trade value year-around.

Because their vacation is, in essence, already paid for, Washington Misick believes that timeshare owners are good for the local economy. He says, “Our guests tend to want to get out and experience all that the Islands have to offer. They enjoy dining out, taking island excursions, shopping and sampling our night life.” To spark visitors’ adventurous spirits, The Alexandra offers a weekly island orientation and a Rum Punch party, Conch Salad tasting and live local entertainment.

Now that the pool and restaurant are complete, construction on the first condominium building is set to begin. Shortly following will be the next timeshare building, with contractors Johnston International anticipating completion for the winter season 2003/04.

Meanwhile, of his first development of this magnitude, Washington Misick says, “It was a lot of work, but I have never been one to shy away from that . . . and I had help from a lot of good people along the way. I am pleased to have this opportunity to set an example for other Belongers to follow.”

The art of storytelling (or, as the old folks say “talking ol’ stories”), like much of our cultural heritage is hardly ever practiced these days. We are a nation of short attention spans, addicts to the quick thrill. The TV and cable remote control are forever taking us from one adventure to another in the wink of an eye. We never seem to be satisfied with one program, we have to see it all and the less we use our imagination the better. It is easy to see why the simple art of the oral tradition of storytelling is almost extinct not only here in the Turks & Caicos, but all over the world. People simply have no time to sit and listen.

Parents spend millions of dollars each year buying storybooks to entertain their children because they have no time to sit and “talk old stories” to their kids. These children, like their parents, have even shorter attention spans and are given more and more sophisticated toys and games each year. Unless there are buttons to press, knobs to turn, an LCD screen to view or a keypad to punch in codes, most children are simply not interested in the spoken word. Another factor is the comparison between the old story characters that were simple and plain compared to the new characters like Pokemon, Blue Bear and superheroes that are just plain “cool.”

With all this in mind, I have set out to revive the art of storytelling here in the Turks & Caicos in a way that brings the stories and the characters into the 21st century and will appeal to both parent and child. But first, let’s go back and look at some facts about storytelling, the characters and the storytellers.

THE ORAL TRADITION
In the past, the oral tradition of storytelling was the way information was passed down from generation to generation. Storytelling held a high place in many cultures and still does in remote areas of the world yet untouched by modern lifestyles and technology. The “Animal” stories in the Caribbean have links to African-American tales of the Uncle Remus tradition, who in turn have direct links to Africa, especially the West African Gold Coast of Ghana and the Ashanti people–the birthplace of “Anancy the Spider.” Our British and European connection brought stories by Hans Christian Andersen (such as the “Little Mermaid”), the “Ugly Ducking” and the “Aesop’s Fables” with their ancient Greek roots and wonderful morals and lessons. The following story is an example of “Aesop’s Fables” called “The Ant and the Dove.”

An Ant, going to a river to drink, fell in, and was carried along in the stream. A Dove, seeing this, plucked a leaf from a tree and let it fall close to the Ant. The Ant climbed onto it and floated safely to the bank. Shortly afterwards, the Ant saw a man aiming a slingshot at the Dove and stung him on the foot sharply, making him miss his aim and so saved the Dove’s life.
Moral: “One good turn deserves another” or “Little friends may prove great friends.”

Stories like “Goldilocks and the Three Bears” and “Cinderella” that are European in origin are retold here in the Islands without many parents, children, teachers or storytellers really questioning the fact that we don’t have bears, blond hair or castles. These stories have crossed cultural boundaries because they stimulate something within each of us, no matter what race, color or creed . . . our imagination.

UNCLE REMUS
In America, the main characters of the “Uncle Remus” tales written by Joel Chandler Harris are the Rabbit and the Fox known as Brer Rabbit and Brer Fox. The “Brer” is an early African-American abbreviation for “Brother.” Uncle Remus is an old Negro slave who holds the full attention of the seven year-old son of his master when he relays the tales and stories of Brer Rabbit, Brer Fox and a host of other characters. Many of these stories have parallels all over Europe, the Old and the New World. It is difficult to trace the origins since the cultures of the African slaves, the American Indians and the Europeans were well mixed and over time they took from each other, put in their own cultural twists, dialect and nuances and retold the tales.

THE CHARACTERS
Throughout the Caribbean, the spider Anancy (Ananci, Ananse), also known as Brer ‘Nancy, is the most popular character. He is wise, cunning, greedy, lazy and full of tricks, and he rules supreme over the other animals. Anancy is both the hero and the villain, both loveable and sinister, and is known to have magical powers and lives by his wits. Among the Ashanti people he is known as “Ananci Krokoko,” translated as “The Great Spider,” and is a symbol of wisdom.

In the world of storytelling, all the animals and insects have the power of speech. They dress like humans, live like humans and think like humans. They are very much a reflection of us and often show our human weaknesses, stupidity, greed and ignorance. That is why we can relate to them and often see people or ourselves as the hero, villain or trickster in the stories. There are numerous characters in the form of the Goat, Rabbit, Tiger, Monkey, Dog, Snake and Donkey, to name a few.

Here in the Turks & Caicos, the main characters are “Brer Rabbie” the Rabbit (also known as “Brer Yabbie”), “Brer Bookie” the Goat and “Anancy” the Spider. Salt rakers and their masters brought the tales here from Bermuda to Grand Turk and Salt Cay and the plantation slaves in the Caicos Islands from the Carolinas brought the Uncle Remus stories from America and the Anancy stories from Africa.

DIALECT IN STORYTELLING
Dialect plays an important part in telling a story. The use of local dialect makes the situation with the characters real and funny. It also gives the story color and life, but for persons whose ears are not used to hearing the unique sounds and pronunciations of a particular dialect, the stories could be confusing and difficult to understand.

In Jamaica, stories are told in the local “Patois” and I recall listening to a recording of the popular storyteller there, Louise Benne’ Tiger.” Even though I knew the story, I was unable to follow her rendition because of the use of the patois. By the time I figured out one line, she had moved on two or three ahead. The following is an excerpt from the story by Louise Bennett, written in patois with a Standard English translation after.

Anancy talking to Tiger:
“Lawd, Bra Tigar, me hooda glad fi goh wid yuh, but afta me soh sick, me disha dead wid me belly an me cyaan walk a tall.”

(”Lord, Brother Tiger, I would have been glad to go with you, but I am so sick, I feel like I’m going to die with this stomachache and I cannot walk at all.”)

After my difficulty with the Jamaican patois, I became very sensitive and aware of my use of local dialect when telling a story to persons from abroad since I want all listening to understand. For the local population though, the stronger the dialect the funnier the story.

THE STORYTELLERS
The use of the voice, a command of local dialect, acting and musical ability, and a good memory and quick mind are all part of the tools of a storyteller. He or she must be able to draw the audience into the story, to actually see the characters. Timing and a sense for comedy is also another very important tool. The storyteller must also have the ability to read his audience. A story cannot be told the same way twice since the mood, location, age of the audience and time of day creates variables the storyteller must be sensitive to and make the appropriate changes, otherwise the dramatic of comic effect is lost.

Mr. Kenton Wyatt, who is very influential in sparking my cultural interest in storytelling, introduced me to the use of the drum. Kenton uses a drum to create the mood and set the tone of the story the same way directors use music in movies. The drum draws the listener in and keeps his attention.

THE NEW ANANCY
A few years ago, I spoke to Kenton about acting out the parts of the characters of a story on stage as the storyteller told the story. It wasn’t until this year that I got a chance to try it out and found it to be a big hit with both children and adults. As Kenton, who possesses a deep bass voice and the hands of a master drummer, tells an Anancy story, I would contort myself into a position and become Anancy the Spider. The story takes on a new twist with this visual aid and it also helps to create more interest among our people in storytelling.

During the last Tourism Awareness Week Islands Tour, the TUCA Cultural Group performed all the parts and characters of the “Anancy and B’bookie Daughters” story to audiences on all of our family Islands. We were delighted at the response, so I plan to take a small group into the schools next year to promote storytelling and the cultural arts.

I have also started a collection of local folk tales and if you know any old stories (or if you know someone who does) please contact me in care of the Turks & Caicos Tourist Board, Stubbs Diamond Plaza, Providenciales, Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI. Tel: 649-946-4970, Fax: 649-941-5494.

The Palms Grand Resort & Spa

“In these times, upmarket condominium purchasers are looking beyond the brick and mortar and core amenities. Instead, their interest is more comprehensive . . . they ask ‘what will I experience while I’m there?’”
Developer Stan Hartling’s words reflect the philosophy by which The Palms Grand Resort and Spa is guided. “With this project, we really focused on the guest experience side of the resort from the very beginning. The intense design process went on for over a year and is continuing today as we constantly refine the details. I believe this will make a difference I’ll be proud of: a sense of property not easily recreated.”

It all began with choice of location: 450 feet of the finest beachfront on esteemed Grace Bay Beach in Providenciales. Hartling had his sights set on the property for years, intrigued by its natural sunset views and more-private location, well removed from large-scale hotel properties.

The next step was a carefully designed master plan, a cooperative effort between architects Nichols Brosch Sandoval & Associates; landscape architects Bradshaw, Gill & Associates; Hartling and partner Mervin Cox, of COXCO Construction, and Cox’s colleague Marc Johnson. Each component of the plan had to meet the demands of the various professionals involved, while contributing to an overall atmosphere of majestic exclusivity, from The Palms’ sugary sand border to its grand entrance from Grace Bay Road.

A palm-lined promenade draws views across the gracious fountain courtyard and British Colonial-era Manor House, the open-air central lobby and welcoming point for all guests. Spaced around the fountain courtyard are the gourmet restaurant, luxury spa and small boutiques, ensuring the perfect venue for after-dinner strolls.

A buffering layer of carriage houses (for private enclosed parking) flank the Manor House, while its peaceful courtyard foyer with wall fountain serves as an entrance to the private residences.

Suites, ranging in size and floor plan to suit many tastes, are enclosed in five, five-story buildings facing the beach. Reflecting an old Colonial, West Indies style, all boast primary ocean views from every direction via expansive terraces, whether set beside the dune’s edge or with the accent of the interior courtyard gardens.

The centerpiece oceanfront courtyard encloses a fabulous free form pool (with secluded alcoves and “infinity edge” to blend naturally into the turquoise bay) and is enhanced with lush landscaping and well designed paths to ensure that privacy is not comprised. Beach level suites have semi-private outdoor terraces that extend into the garden area, allowing the twin comforts of seclusion and enjoyment of the sparkling sunshine and revitalizing sea breezes. A cozy, dune-front cabana bar promises cool refuge and relaxed beachfront dining without impacting views.

Although construction has been underway for over four months, targeting a December 2004 opening, The Palms refinements continue. Paul Duesing, of Paul Duesing Partners, a specialist in “leisure and lifestyle design” for high-end properties, is now part of the team. Hartling was overwhelmed by the excellence of Duesing’s work on such projects as the Las Ventanas luxury hotel in Cabo San Lucas (its interiors rated #1 by Conde Nast magazine) and the Royal Livingstone hotel in Victoria Falls, Zambia (profiled in the November 2002 Architectural Digest). He knew that Duesing’s total immersion in detail was tailor-made for what he had in mind for The Palms. Hartling explains, “When creating spaces, Paul takes everything a step beyond the ordinary. He takes into account mood, atmosphere, time of day . . . and pulls all the elements together to produce a space dedicated to total enjoyment.”

Duesing says that as part of his “big picture” approach, he will be both exaggerating things that are beautiful about the Turks & Caicos and bringing to life elements of the Colonial era to appeal to guests’ most romantic notions. Enthralled by the amazing colors of the sea, Duesing will complement the stunning terrace views that dominate the suites’ Great Rooms with light, white wall treatments and fabrics and contrasting mahogany furniture, with accents of coral stone. Net-enclosed canopy beds and the mellow glow of gas lanterns, with antique mirrors in the doors, will bring to life an era of pleasure. Typical shower stalls are replaced by “liquid temples”: an entire “wet room” complete with chandelier, marble benches, dual showerheads and a hand-held spray. And Duesing says that while kitchens will be outfitted to satisfy the most discriminating cook, they will be readily disguised when not in use, appearing as an entertainment bar around which guests can cluster. For accent pieces, Duesing and his associates are busy sourcing Colonial-era paraphernalia, along with postcards and photographs of the Islands’ yesteryear.

The Palms will have a state of the art spa.Duesing is also creating a one-of-a-kind ambience for the spa, which Hartling and his partners see as becoming a beacon for the property, and a renowned entity in its own right. He says, “We want the spa to be a unique experience and internationally acclaimed . . . right out there with all the newest and most innovative techniques. Right now, we’re planning it to cover over 8,000 square feet, with the possibility of acquiring another plot of land to make it even larger.”

The spa will be divided into bungalow-style treatment rooms including spacious couples’ suites with private pools. The romantic atmosphere will be accentuated with floating pavilions cantilevered over a reflecting pond, the perfect site for nighttime pleasures. Among the variety of cutting-edge treatments available will be underwater massage and chromotherapy, in which the use of color is employed for relaxation.

The on-site restaurant will be distinctive, as well. Not satisfied with anything that could be classified as typical, Hartling and his colleagues are currently searching the globe to find the perfect gourmet restaurateur who is willing to take on the challenge and enter into a joint venture. This is one of Hartling’s successful business philosophies. He says, “I prefer to break a property down into microgroups, each managed by the key stakeholders because the drive and enthusiasm owners bring to a venture is unmatched.”

As developer of the highly successful Sands on Grace Bay Resort (1/2 mile west of The Palms site), Hartling earned the distinction of delivering a high quality product, on schedule, and with the pleasure of lots of personal interaction. As testimonial, to date over 20% of The Sands owners have upgraded (at about twice the price!) into The Palms project. Hartling beams, “It’s exciting that they have this sort of confidence and satisfaction in us. I’m also pleased to report that The Sands resales didn’t stay on the market for long.” In this the first year of steady marketing, The Palms sales exceed $40 million, with over 60% of the units sold at an average price of $1.1 million.

What makes an investment in The Palms so attractive? Hartling believes that because many of today’s purchasers are placing capital (rather than spending discretionary income) in the real estate market, the stature of the property and how it is promoted are of prime importance. Besides the sheer excitement of seeing their vacation home acclaimed in an elite travel magazine or earning the distinction of an award, this exposure enhances the growth potential of the investment. The care that is being taken at The Palms to create a unique and superior “experience” from the start bodes well for the future.

Hartling explains that his upscale clientele include many self-made entrepreneurs who feel good about having a productive asset. “As long as they have confidence in management, it’s in their nature to rent out their unit when they’re not using it.” As a result, a comprehensive rental program was built into The Palms plans from the beginning, modeled on that of The Sands. All suites include studio lockout options, each with its own kitchenette and terrace.

Hartling and partner Mervyn Cox are proud to be part of the cutting edge of development that they feel characterizes Providenciales these days. They explain, “Developments here are as advanced as anywhere else in the world. We’re not just following the leaders . . . we’re setting the precedent and the market is responding.”

For more information, visit www.gopalms.com.

The Isle of West Caicos

By Kathy Borsuk
Photos by Horton Realty

It was a perfect day for my first helicopter ride. The wind was calm, the sky was clear and the low angle of the autumn sunlight gave everything a rich, burnished glow. I was on my way to the isle of West Caicos.

The Isle of West CaicosWe sped across the six miles of shallow banks separating Providenciales from the isle, the water crystal clear, with a lime-green tinge. Seen as a shadowy hump on the horizon from Providenciales’ south shore, by air West Caicos appears as the ultimate mirage: a pristine, isolated island, its velvety green landmass ringed with a corona of brilliant beaches and sparkling seas which seemed to glow in luminescent tones somewhere between turquoise and heavenly blue.

West Caicos CoveOur bird’s-eye view revealed all of West Caicos’ charms: long stretches of pearly sand dunes along some shores, craggy limestone creating secluded coves in other areas. Best known as the site for premiere scuba diving and fishing, I learned that the unique color of the ocean here was an indication of depth along the sheer wall drop-off just off the western shore.

Inland, we hovered over vast Lake Catherine, home to flocks of flamingos and two bottomless blue holes. We spied on several ponds fed by “boiling springs,” subterranean tunnels to the sea. Dun-colored, tidal-fed salinas were also part of the landscape, dominated by endless acres of lush tropical “bush” and rock-crested ridges. One highlight of the magical trip was the discovery of a herd of hungry bonefish patrolling a shallow flat.

We saw evidence of West Caicos’ somewhat-odd human history, as well. The rocky inlet of Delvin Cove once sheltered pirates waiting to loot ships wrecked on nearby Molasses Reef. Abandoned railroad tracks splicing the isle’s midsection, rough donkey trails, toppled stone buildings and rusting tractors recollect 19th century salt and sisal enterprises at Yankee Town, while the hulls of futuristic pods represent a more recent attempt at fish farming. The existing airstrip was the start of a 1970s plan for an oil refinery.

Mans’ latest footprint was also apparent: the new harbour created by dredging of a natural inlet on the isle’s northwest edge. It is the first step towards the development of the Isle of West Caicos . . . and the reason I was visiting.

Like many island residents, I had heard rumors about the new project and was concerned about the fate of one of the country’s few remaining pristine enclaves. After spending time with the development team and poring over their plans, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the Turks & Caicos” Crown Jewel is in good hands.

For starters, the “Isle of West Caicos” development team is entirely made up of Belongers and a resident of the Turks & Caicos Islands, all folks who care deeply that the project enhances rather than exploits the isle’s natural treasures. Plans focus on low-density, top-of-the-market development with minimum impact to the environment. Another encouraging note is that the team is proceeding in a careful, deliberate manner, with years of environmental impact and land usage studies preceding construction. And as the first of its kind joint venture with the Turks & Caicos government, the project will benefit the country and its people. With previous suitors for West Caicos proposing such schemes as toxic waste disposal and aragonite mining, the lovely isle seems to have ended up in a love match.

The Vision
Partner David Hartshorn says, “It’s under everyone’s skin to live on a tropical island with no hassles,” and this thought has shaped plans for the Isle of West Caicos. As a small and very exclusive island retreat, the infrastructure, architecture and services are all designed to ensure a life of luxury and convenience, while at the same time enhancing and respecting the isle’s natural beauty.

The centerpiece is the new ten acre harbour, its 12 foot draft welcoming entry and dockage by ocean-going mega-yachts and sailboats alike. The surrounding Harbour Town, artfully designed to recreate the ambience of the 18th century, will include a full service marina and waterfront village complete with small shops, cafes and cottage-style condominium/townhomes. Discreetly positioned nearby will be a commercial dock that will serve as a port-of-entry for direct customs clearance of supplies. Regular ferry service via dual-powered catamaran for the 25 minute ride from Providenciales will arrive at the Harbour Town reception area. Additional access to the isle will be by small plane or helicopter via the renovated airstrip, also a certified port of entry into the Turks & Caicos.

A 125 room, five-star hotel is slated to be built on the beach at Logwood Point, east of Harbour Town. At press time, negotiations were underway with the hoteliers, but the Logwood team was able to divulge, “They plan on turning it into one of the very top accommodations in the world.” Its low-key architecture will mirror Colonial features of days past, and include a number of beachfront bungalows, which will be available for purchase.

Residential settlements make up the remainder of the developable land, divided into three separate coastal communities with about 100 lots ranging in size from one to three acres. All areas will be connected with roadways and paths for electric carts, in some cases utilizing the original roadbeds cut decades ago. Underground power, water, television and telephone connections will be provided to each site.

Although residents are encouraged to personalize homes to their pleasure, specific building envelopes are identified for each lot to best position homes to the topography. Building heights and setbacks are guided to preserve the feeling of open space and while the design theme, “18th century Caribbean,” is open to French, English and Spanish influences, final plans will require approval by the project architect.

The Visionaries
David Hartshorn came to Providenciales in 1981 with Johnston International to build the airport. Now running his own construction management company, Projetech, he says he has always dreamed of living on West Caicos. Over six years ago, he asked friend Earl “Super C” Ingham to inquire with government about securing land on the isle. Negotiations ensued and, over time, a development team assembled, with representation from many of the islands.

Besides Grand Turk native “Super C” (a painting contractor), the team includes Projetech construction manager Desmond Quant (from Grand Turk), builder Douglas Misick (from North Caicos), and Walkin Marine entrepreneur Sherlock Walkin (from Providenciales). Two years into the project, they were joined by American Alan Lisenby, a life-long builder/developer who has lived and invested in the TCI since 1983, and whose influence, the team says, “was the impetus to really get the ball rolling.”

As Logwood Development Co. Ltd. (named after the cargo that so often drifted ashore West Caicos following shipwrecks), the team struck a deal. TCI government would receive 25% of gross land sales (at market value), along with the standard 7% stamp duty on such transactions. Little was asked in return, as Logwood would finance and build all necessary infrastructure. Land usage plans specified that no more than 12% of the 5,500 acre isle be developed, including 150 acres reserved for exclusive Belonger development, and that the remaining land be set aside as a nature preserve.

Hartshorn recalls, “From day one, the tone was set that development be low density, low impact and environmentally friendly. In fact, we anticipate that realistically, there will never be more than 1,000 people living on West Caicos at any given time.” The skilled land planning company of Edward D. Stone Associates (EDSA) was brought in to work with locally based Halltech on extensive environmental impact/land usage studies that took place over a period of two years, costing over $1 million. At the same time, the Architectural Design Group began preliminary sketches. There was plenty of in-house expertise in the areas of building design, construction services, maintenance and rental management, and marine services. Horton Real Estate, led by Belonger Walter Gardiner, took on marketing responsibilities, while the local firms of Misick & Stanbrook and KPMG were assigned to cover legal and accounting matters, respectively.

Refining the Vision
As we buzzed over West Caicos in the project’s private helicopter, Alan Lisenby explained that there will be no lack of amenities or activities on the Isle of West Caicos. Besides the obvious distractions of swimming, snorkeling, sunning, diving and fishing (deep-sea, reef and bone . . . I could see Alan’s hands itching for a fly rod when we passed the school of bonefish), residents and visitors can also enjoy beachcombing, land sailing on the salinas, pony trekking to the historic sites and hidden ponds, ocean kayaking, canoeing and jogging or biking on miles of trails. Facilities will also eventually include lighted tennis courts, a freshwater swimming pool and a golf driving range.

With the utopian goal of “no accidents and no crime,” the Isle will be serviced by a round-the-clock security staff, with local monitoring of home alarms, marine radar surveillance and mobile fire-fighting equipment all available.

Residents can make use of both inter-island and offshore shopping services. Property management and maintenance plans include refuse collection, landscaping and yard service.

Vision into Reality
West Caicos HarborAfter two years of environmental impact assessment, including specialized marina hydrology studies, in November 2001, Logwood undertook what they say was the most challenging part of the project: dredging the salina to create a harbour. Due to a natural cut in the reef at the inlet, no coral was removed. A special suction dredge, likened to a giant vacuum cleaner, deposited the bottom sand directly onto the adjoining land. This state-of-the-art system, combined with turbidity nets and constant monitoring of water quality, helped keep sediment flow into the pristine ocean to a minimum. This $6 million initial step was successfully completed in less than a year.

By mid-2003, the team will move forward to start construction of selected Harbour Town buildings, and eventually the hotel and first homes. Of the nearly dozen lots already sold, all owners are eager to begin building (including the developers themselves!) However, as Alan Lisenby was quick to point out, “We’ve been very thorough and deliberate for the last four years in planning the project and we intend to use the same approach in the development phase. As we are not dependent upon pre-sales as our source of financing, we can move forward in a rapid, but orderly manner. And with only 100 lots, there’s not much to sell.”

Creating a Model Project
In all they do, the Isle of West Caicos team sees the project as an opportunity to create a model for others to follow . . . and to prove that Belonger-owned, locally funded and manned development can succeed. And rather than isolate a portion of the country from its native population, they see the development as opening up West Caicos to increased use. Walter Gardiner, sales manager at Horton Realty, explained, “With readily available transportation to West Caicos, many more Belongers and residents can enjoy the island. The fact that the historical landmarks will be protected in a Living Museum will allow more people to learn about our fascinating history.”

As well, 150 acres of prime beach and ridge land is set aside for exclusive Belonger development, both residential and commercial. Belongers will be encouraged to settle in West Caicos and the project will create many opportunities for local businesspersons to service the growing community. Finally, via government’s involvement in the project, profits will directly benefit the local economy. This is especially important because, as the team pointed out, the Isle of West Caicos is currently the most ambitious project in the Turks & Caicos Islands. All involved want it to stand as its proudest landmark.

In the last few years, the offshore financial sector has been undergoing dramatic changes. The Turks & Caicos Islands (TCI), albeit a relatively small boutique financial jurisdiction, has been playing its part in introducing a braod array of laws and regulations to ensure a propertly regulated and safe environment in which to conduct offshore financial services business.

Indeed, as a British Overseas Territory, TCI is now more heavily regulated and has more laws in place to ensure the proper conduct of business than many of the “onshore” territories, including the United States and the United Kingdom. In this changing environment, we are seeing a change in the profile of individuals who utilize these offshore financial products and commensurately, we are seeing a change in the products they are seeking. This change is being driven by two factors: increased regulation on the home front making it difficult and expensive for onshore investors to gain access to onshore products that meet their needs, and an increasing level of sophistication of offshore centers, where these needs are being identified and products that are able to meet investors’ objectives are being created.

During the roaring bull market of the 1990s, investors became somewhat complacent in their choice of investment vehicle to access stocks and other investment instruments. On many occasions I met with overjoyed investors who had made significant capital gains on their portfolios and who wanted advice on how to realize those gains without realizing a significant tax charge. In particular, U.S. clients were concerned–especially in the dizzy heights of late 1999 and early 2000–that many of their gains were short term and that they were going to have to pay 40% of their gain in taxes to realize the position.

In the event, many investors who might have taken their profit decided to hold on. The end result has been that in many cases, rather than taking a profit and paying the taxes, they held and paid more in losses in the ensuing collapse.

In addition to these tax issues, investors were (in my humble opinion) duped by the Wall Street money machine and the talking heads of CNBC and other media channels that the road to riches simply involved buying a few stocks and sitting on them for the long term. If you fundamentally believe that this is true, then have a chat with a Japanese investor, who is seeing their stock market hit 19 year lows, and who will have to see the Nikkei index rise by over 400% simply to get back to where it was in 1989! Of course if you believe the commentators, this simply cannot happen in the U.S., just as they would have pronounced in early 2000 that you would have to be mad to think that with the Nasdaq trading over 5,000 it could possibly fall to 1,000–well, we are nearly there. Whether I am right or wrong, the point is: Can you afford to take that risk?

Clearly I am not denying that if you buy stocks, in the long term they will go up. The question is, will it be you or your children or your grandchildren who see this benefit? Furthermore, if you are putting your faith in asset managers who base their investment philosophy on relative performance then you are bound to be doomed. Imagine the phone call from your asset manager in 10 years time: “Hello, Mr. Client. You will be delighted to know that we have outperformed the S&P 500 by 10% in the last 10 years.” It sounds good, but not if the S&P 500 is down 30% and your portfolio is down 20%!

Inept financial institutions selling the glory of equity investment to the unsophisticated general public propagate the “Buy for the Long Term” mantra. The very fact that 80% of equity fund managers underperform their benchmark indices would at least indicate that if the investor wishes to invest in the stock market, then they should do so through an index-tracking fund.

This argument is, however, directed mainly at those investors currently seeking relative performance. It is an amazing quirk of current financial expectations that the average investor will pay in the range of 3% per annum of their money to the 80% of fund managers who underperform their index. What is even more amazing is that most private investors will pay a manager to try and outperform an index that itself may collapse and lose them money. Surely one would pay a manager to make money irrespective of market conditions.

Indeed, if you have a look at Mr. Warren Buffet’s Berkshire Hathaway, at the time of writing the stock in this company is trading at around $74,000, on a Price to Earnings ratio of 82, whilst the net asset value of this company (i.e. the actual value of the underlying stocks held by this fund) is $40,000. Clearly the bear market cannot be over when “investors” are still ignoring the fundamentals despite nearly three years of a bear market.

Most clients who I talk to agree wholeheartedly that they wish to make money and they are not greedy. “If I could make 10% per annum in the markets, with interest rates on bank deposits at just over 1%, I would be very happy.” So what the client is really saying is that they want absolute returns. I have never had a client say to me, “I would be really happy to outperform the S&P 500 by 5% per annum.” Yet that is what the investment industry offers to most private clients, and all private clients are not happy with that when the S&P 500 is down 25% year-to-date.

So, to summarize the issues above, we might conclude the following:

* If we could wrap our investments in a tax-free umbrella, we could be more flexible with them, which in the long run could help enormously in taking profits and allowing re-investment into emerging opportunities.

* If we could gain access to money managers who focus on absolute performance, we might never have to go through the pain again of seeing our funds track the S&P 500 and Nasdaq etc. down and down and down.

* If our actively trading absolute return managers are not constrained by tax issues in their trading, then they can buy and sell at will without creating a large tax liability.

To this end we therefore need two products. Firstly, we need a recognized tax-efficient wrapper that shields the underlying investments from the tax consequences of active trading. Secondly, we need a trading fund whose managers are paid to make money irrespective of the direction of the stock or other markets.

In the first instance, for U.S. tax payers, the tax-efficient wrapper is the single premium deferred variable annuity contract. In the case of substantial investors whose net asset base is at least $5 million and who are looking to invest at least $1 million, the private placement variable life insurance product is the product of choice, but for the purpose of this article I will focus on the variable annuity.

The offshore variable annuity is structured in exactly the same manner as the onshore U.S. version. Utilizing this approach ensures that one is not trying to be clever with the mighty Internal Revenue Service. We are simply cloning the product available onshore and are respecting the rules and requirements laid down by the IRS and the U.S. Treasury.
The essential characteristics of the product are as follows:

*A single premium is invested.

* Funds accumulate on a tax-deferred basis.

* Withdrawals can be taken from the contract after the age of 59 1/2 without penalty. (The IRS imposes a penalty of 10% of gains on withdrawals taken before 59 1/2).

* On withdrawal the gain in the amount withdrawn is taxed at the marginal income tax rate of the owner.

The result is that funds, which would in the short term have been paid in taxes, are allowed to carry on working for the investor, thus resulting in a significantly greater accumulation of assets in the long run.

So why invest in an offshore deferred annuity when there are onshore versions available? The answer is two-fold:

Firstly, from a cost basis, offshore annuities are much cheaper to purchase and manage for the larger investor. The onshore versions are designed for an average investment in the $10,000 range, whereas the offshore minimum investment is in the $100,000 range, and these versions are not structured to pay the substantial commissions that onshore annuities pay (ranging from 5% to 15%!).

Secondly, and most importantly, the offshore annuities are not constrained by primarily State-imposed rules and regulations governing where the funds can be invested. The typical onshore annuity issuer provides a selection of standard mutual funds covering the common array of investment styles, from U.S. large capitalization stocks to emerging country funds. What they do not provide is the flexibility for the investor in the annuity to determine a more flexible investment position, choose his investment advisor to manage the funds, or seek access to alternate investment vehicles that focus on absolute return performance.
Therefore, for our U.S. investor clients what has worked extremely well has been the combination of this U.S. approved tax deferral vehicle, underlying which is a portfolio of alternative investment vehicles focusing on absolute return performance.

Within the industry, these underlying vehicles are very loosely referred to as “hedge funds.” We do not like or approve of this definition as it is in most cases grossly misleading, in that the underlying assets of these funds are not hedged. “Alternative Investment Vehicle” seems far more appropriate as the funds are able to invest in asset classes not normally available to the private investor through domestic funds. These asset classes will incorporate the normal ability to access stocks and bonds, but will also allow access via stock and bond index futures and options, foreign exchange markets, base metals such as copper and aluminum, precious metals such as gold and silver, grains such as wheat and corn, and the meat markets such as live cattle and pork bellies.

The managers of these funds therefore have a much larger selection of investments to choose from and are not constrained by the requirement to buy the investments long, but can also sell the investments short so as to profit from declining prices. The managers may also employ leverage to enhance the gains experienced from relatively small moves.

One has to be extremely careful to select managers who have a proven ability to manage these types of strategies and who have the proven ability to make money in declining as well as rising markets. For example, there are many former mutual fund managers who are trying to become “hedge fund” managers when they have no real experience of trading. The most effective funds tend to employ former proprietary traders from the world’s major banks, where they have had extensive experience in trading and the risk management techniques necessary to manage these funds effectively. For this reason, we focus on selecting fund management groups with extensive experience in this area of investment with proven performance in both up and down markets, in order to measure their correlation to the more traditional markets.

In selecting the investment managers to undertake these programmes, it is entirely possible to put together a portfolio of funds that have achieved compound annual returns in the 10% to 20% per annum range over a period of at least 5 to 10 years. Ideally, we look at structuring a group of funds in order to diversify risk, lower the volatility of the portfolio, and meet some of the diversification rules of the Treasury Department that relate to variable annuity products.

In addition to selecting funds that have sound track records in all market conditions, some of the larger groups issue closed-end funds that have guaranteed minimum returns assuming the investment is held for the entire duration of the holding period. For example, one fund group which issues closed end funds on a regular basis and has achieved historical returns in the 15% per annum range is issuing new funds with a guaranteed minimum return of 120% of the amount invested so long as the investment is held for the full term (usually 10 years). Leading international banks such as Royal Bank of Scotland, Bank of America and Lloyds TSB provide the guarantees.

So in conclusion, the offshore world has a great deal to offer the onshore investor who is seeking a tax efficient means of accessing alternative investment programmes with the aim of targeting absolute returns. With the bursting of the stock market bubble and the ensuing bear market, investors are realizing that preserving capital is just as important as making money, and millions of investors who have been let down by investment managers targeting relative performance are unaware of the opportunities available to select managers focused on absolute returns.

So, if you want to play it safe, is now the time to target absolute returns? Absolutely!

Mark Smallwood is Managing Director of Smallwood Trust Company Ltd. and Smallwood Insurance Company Ltd., based in Providenciales since 1994. Smallwood Insurance Company Ltd. issues a deferred variable annuity called The Sanctuary Investment Plan, details of which can be located on the company’s website at: www.smallwoodco.com.

Mark Smallwood has extensive experience in using insurance products to mitigate tax liabilities for high net worth investors. Mark Smallwood is a full member of the Society of Trust and Estate Practitioners and is President of the Association of Licensed Trustees of the Turks & Caicos Islands.

There is something elemental in the act of wriggling one’s naked toes into sun-baked sand. It’s as if those zillions of grains of sand somehow illicit a very simple and basic joy.

Maybe the magic comes from its millions of years in the making. Like the hourglass that marks time, sand has dribbled down through the millennia and has been deposited in some of the most breathtaking places on earth.

Ever contemplate the creation of a single grain of sand?
What is known about the origin of our Islands?
How is it that some shores are graced with a lovely lace-like trim? What are the driving forces and benefits of sand as it sifts through the hourglass of time?

FROM A SINGLE GRAIN OF SAND
The hourglass, that simple device so cleverly designed for marking time, is also somewhat symbolic of the origin of sand. Sand is created a few grains at a time, mostly by a slow whittling away. Many different types of sand are purely a physical eroding process, where wind and water whittle rocks into fine grains. Most beaches on continental shores are composed of particles swept down from the adjacent mountain ranges through the rivers bound to the sea. In dry islands with a paucity of freshwater runoff, much of the physical processing of sand is limited to wave action and storm abrasion whittling away at the reefs.

Biological processes also aid in the formation of different types of sand. Millions of marine creatures donate their remaining skeletons for our pleasure on a beach. Diatoms, minute algal beings, are a major contributing factor with their siliceous, glass-like bodies. Sea shells can also break into particles over time. Several larger marine algae specimens are composed partly of calcareous materials that eventually break down to help form sand. In our area of the world, parrotfish and other marine creatures feed on the coral reefs and calcareous algae and through the process of digestion, excrete the beautiful sand of our beaches.

In this warm-weather region, we also have chemical processes that create sand. Here, the exceptionally warm, clear waters on the shallow banks cause calcium carbonate to become supersaturated in seawater and thus precipitate out, somewhat like the water evaporates on the salt pan. The precipitation usually occurs around a nucleus of a fragment of shell or other object, resulting in a perfect little spherical sand grain.
In the Turks & Caicos, the majority of our sand is calcium carbonate-based, i.e., most of it comes directly from the sea. Even the runoff from land during our limited rainy times is limestone based, originally an artifact of the sea. If it’s the result of biological breakdown, such as processed by parrotfish or other parts of the coral reef, then the sand is typically known as aragonite. The chemically born bits are known as ooliths, derived from the Greek oion, meaning egg, and lith for rock. Beaches fringing the “Bank” are primarily composed of ooliths, as the shallow water bank is perfect breeding grounds for this round sphere of sand. The irregular shaped aragonite sands are more commonly found adjacent to the fringing reefs.

The color of sand can also tell a lot about its origins. On the continents, sand is often multicolored and a composite of various types of rocks from which it has eroded over the distances and years. In the Caribbean, beaches also vary in shades of color. Volcanically formed islands have the same runoff/erosion process as the continents and the sands can be derived from whatever rocks are the basis of the land mass. Many islands, like Dominica, have ebony colored beaches from the black lava sand. Some places have beaches of pearly pink, possibly a result of red coralline algae reefs or communities nearby. The beaches of Middle Caicos boast a few pearly pinks. Most of the sands though, found here in the Turks & Caicos Islands, are glittering white and are the result of the surrounding marine world.

GENESIS OF AN ISLAND

Like the book of Genesis, the story of sand goes back to the earliest of beginnings. But we will start relatively recently, with the formation of the Bahamas Platform, a region that includes the Florida Keys, the Bahamas, and the Turks & Caicos Islands. The islands of the Bahamas Platform are believed to have emerged from the sea in the Miocene Period some 11 to 25 million years ago.

In reality, sand is the genesis of these island chains. Many organisms living in the warm, clear waters of long-ago contributed their skeletons to make up carbonate sediments. Evaporation caused the deposits to be formed out of these billions of sand particles. Millions of years later, with the help of a few rises and falls of sea levels and more evaporation, the islands started changing into the form we know today.

How does this happen? One mechanism is through “concretion” of moist sand to form beach rock. Easily examined samples can be found on the north shore of Little Water Cay. The concretion process is an effect of the fresh water from rain and the drying winds on the sand (evaporation). Sand continues to build up on top of the rock, forming dunes with rock layers beneath. Vegetation then starts to accumulate and helps to hold the sand in place against the weather and sea. Eventually, layer upon layer is formed with successive dune lines pushing further towards the sea with the new vegetation holding the additional sand in place.

Another process involves wind, tides and currents that cause an accumulation of the sand deposits in areas we call shoals. The roots of red mangroves grow and help hold the particles in place. The mangroves then drop more seedlings, which can grow in depths of up to three feet. The roots slowly start to accumulate more sediments, plants and animal debris. This, in turn, further slows the currents, trapping even more organic matter. The mangroves are also home for many marine animals, which increases the load of organic debris. Eventually, the process of land and soil formation continues until the shoal is completely above water and ever-expanding over time.

SHIFTING SANDS

Mother Nature can be merciless when it comes to the shifting sands. This is never more apparent than to homeowners along the beach who have to watch their yards wash away. Shorelines are constantly either eroding or accreting, with few periods of stasis in between. The physical processes of water, wind, waves and currents are typically the culprits, but man-made structures or alterations to the environment can also alter Mother Nature’s plan.

Of the different types of shoreline communities, beaches are one of the most dynamic. Currents always run one way along a beach and are known as longshore currents. As the currents move, they constantly pick up and drop sand as they go. Some areas may erode, while others accrete or add sand to the area. Beaches near inlets are even more dynamic and subject to change as the inlet increases the water movement through the area. Fine sand beaches are typically formed in areas with a slow current, as the fine particles have a chance to fall out more easily. Larger grains of sand are more indicative of areas with a faster current.

Keep in mind that all this shifting is part of Mother Nature’s plan, as she replenishes and prunes the old and the new. Unfortunately for man, it is not always in his best interest. So to impede the natural ebb and flow, structures are added or sands dredged away. But few things can outdo Mother Nature or outlive Father Time and the never-ending war begins.

In our attempts to control where we do and don’t want sand a number of devices have been designed: seawalls for holding sand in, bulkheads for keeping sand out, groins for piling sand on one side or the other. If worse comes to worse, we can always dredge it out and put it where our hearts are content, at least temporarily . . .

Smart strategy attempts to work with the forces of nature, by engineering designs that enhance the natural flow. But just when it seems the battle is over, Mother Nature decides to sweep the slate clean with a raging storm or hurricane. Inlets are altered and beaches blown away as the process starts all over again.

A PRICELESS COMMODITY

Sand is that ucky, sticky stuff that clings to every surface after a wonderful day at the beach. It’s in your hair, down your suit, in the cookies you brought to snack on after a swim around the reef. For visitors, it’s an inadvertent souvenir as it somehow always seems to find a way home in the luggage. What a nuisance it can be!

But for the love of sand, we must give it its due. Without it, there would be no beautiful beach to loll upon–in fact in this island chain, there simply would be no island in the sun. Our great sand beaches are a major portion of the lure to these parts. Tourists spend expansive amounts of money just to lie on these wonderful white sands.
And without sand there would be no way to house the resident population, much less the tourists. Sand is a founding component of the construction process. Like the natural process that built these islands, concretion is necessary for those buildings built to withstand hurricanes. Sand mining is not only a valuable commodity for export, but essential to the Islands’ development.

Now that we know how essential it is to our human presence and survival here, let’s consider some of sand’s other more seemingly benign benefits. If we go back in history a bit, we also note that our great sand beaches provided food for the natives in the form of turtles and their nesting grounds. Iguanas also must nest in the sand as do birds, crabs and numerous other edible species, both above and below the waterline.

But did you know that some of the greatest diversity on earth exists in the sand? In taxonomic terms, it’s even richer than the Amazon rain forest. A single handful of wet sand can contain up to 10,000 small animals, called meiofauna. Meiofauna is a term used for animals that pass through filter sieves with a mesh size of 42 micrometers (.042mm)–mesh finer than a silk stocking. These microscopic creatures play a vital role in the maintenance of our sand, cleaning it as they feed on debris, keeping it oxygenated as they stir up the sand.

Aesthetically speaking, there are few things finer than contemplating miles of glittering white bordered by a turquoise sea. The simplicity of the landscape is mesmerizing. Add in a glorious sunrise or sunset, and it leaves one totally speechless and spellbound.

From a recreational standpoint, the opportunities are unlimited. Beaches are the prime attractant to these islands, where people come to rest and recreate. Sand is the scene for long walks, picnics, parties, moonlit bonfires and barbecues, or just a base on which to loll and read while working on a tan. For the young at heart, a whole new world of activities emerge: building sand castles or sculptures, corn-dogging for the rowdy, or burying your least favorite sibling in the sand. And for a simple pleasure, the pure ecstasy of feeling sand sift between your toes is unmatched.

In today’s world where it seems everything must have a price tag attached, it’s difficult to put a value on sand. A single grain of sand means nothing more than an inert speck to the oversized human world, but to the microscopic meiofauna, it’s earth itself. Gazillions of grains of sand are more within our perspective reach for evaluation, and as human nature would have it, sand becomes a resource to be bought and sold, or used and abused by the highest bidder. Fortunately for us in the TCI, the ocean continues to sire a seemingly endless quantity of sand.

TCI’S PROTECTED BEACHES

The Turks & Caicos Islands are blessed with a number of beaches scattered along the shores of the seven larger islands and numerous small cays. Although each one is spectacular in its own way, it would be next to impossible to protect all of them. Instead, the Turks & Caicos Government has attempted to pinpoint those most vital as a resource and most likely to suffer from human impact. These beaches have been given a protected status, which determines what human activities or development may occur in those areas, with the promise of preserving them.

On Providenciales, the Princess Alexandra National Park is a key resource, encompassing the prize-winning Grace Bay Beach and surrounding lagoon. This park actually extends down to Pine Cay, protecting the northern beaches of Little Water, Pine and Water Cays. Fort George Land and Sea Park, adjacent to Pine Cay, further protects that stretch of shore. North West Point Marine Park, situated on the northwest tip of Providenciales, is another excellent beach area.

These northern beaches are more biologically formed (aragonite) as noted by the irregular shapes of the sand, complete with small fragments of shells. The sand is predominantly an eye-blistering white, which contrasts beautifully with the turquoise sea. The southern shores of Provo are also glittering white, but the grains of sand are mostly chemically formed. These grains are nearly perfect little spheres (ooliths) of a constant shape and size. Beaches near the inlet areas between the island chains often have a mixture of the two as the sand and water are exchanged from the ocean to the bank side.

West of Providenciales lies West Caicos, one of the smaller of the large isles. Beautiful beaches and cliffs grace the western side, where wall diving is at its best. These beaches are protected by the West Caicos Marine National Park. The eastern side is also blessed by miles of undaunted beach, constantly being sculpted by the predominant wind and waves.

Going east along the island chain, several small cays are protected along the northern shores of North Caicos. Although fantastic beaches can be found on North Caicos, and more on Middle and East Caicos, they have not been slated for protection. Instead, a large expanse of the southern mangrove-filled sides of these islands have been set aside as a RAMSAR Wetland Site, to help protect the vital fishery stocks that they provide. Middle Caicos has beaches along its northern shore that vary in shade and size of sand from small white to large pearly pink. East Caicos beaches are uninhabited these days, except for West Indian Whistling Ducks and other feathered friends, mixed in with some donkeys and cows.

South Caicos has East Harbor Lobster and Conch Reserve, which encompasses several stretches of sandy beach located on South Caicos and nearby Dove and Long Cays. Ranging in size from the tiny cove on Dove Cay to miles of uninterrupted sand on Long Cay, a sense of seclusion abounds. East Bay beach is lovely fine-grained sand and the seagrass beds that run the length of the basin are home to many juvenile conch. Long Cay sports a beach on the western side, protected from the swells of the Columbus Passage.

The Columbus Landfall Marine National Park contains an incredible beach, running the length of the western coast of Grand Turk. Sunsets, with the promise of a “green flash,” are priceless here. The beach continues to curve around the southern tip, where many shells can be found. The windward (eastern) side of the island also has a grand stretch of beach that is perfect for those who seek seagoing treasures. The daily blow and currents cough up all kinds of strange debris, along with an assortment of shells.

Another spectacular spot for sand is a place called West Sand Spit. As its name confers, it is simply a large shoal or “spit” near French Cay. There are no trees or vegetation on this little rise of land, merely a joining of sand and sea on the horizon for a mirage-like sensation. But the illusion is real, as you are truly surrounded by miles of water.

One could spend a lifetime exploring and discovering the many beaches of the Turks & Caicos Islands. Nearly every small isle or cay has a sliver of beach somewhere, with its own special blend of sand. Even the tiniest beach can be significant for those creatures that inhabit it. And for us humans, we are graced with the opportunity to add yet another special grain of sand to our own personal hourglass of time.

CLEANUP TCI

Part of the bargain for beautiful beaches utilized by humans is making an effort to keep them clean. It’s amazing how quickly a group of people can literally trash a beach in just a few slovenly moments. Some beaches accumulate litter from afar, blown in and washed up after long journeys at sea. Regardless, garbage is a manmade malady, and we must all take responsibility for curing the disease.

Cleanup TCI is a non-profit organization concerned with ridding the Turks & Caicos of the litter polluting these beautiful isles. Formally the TCI Coastal Cleanup Organization, the Turks & Caicos has participated in the International Coastal Cleanup for the past 10 years. Spearheaded by the Ocean Conservancy’s efforts to deal with marine pollution, over 100 countries and 55 states are participating in annual cleanup events.

Aside from removing trash from our beaches, the programs collect and record key information for analysis. The resultant statistics allow us to make informed decisions and explore solutions for the litter problem. One thing is for certain–people are a major part of the solution.

The motto for the Turks & Caicos is “Beautiful By Nature, Clean By Choice.” This stanza is being shouted by schoolchildren throughout the Islands as Clean-up TCI volunteers make their education rounds. This year, the “Litter Critter” is making its debut. Appropriately costumed in an outfit made of beach debris, the Litter Critter dances to a song with a lively beat while tossing trash to the crowds. “Don’t be a Litter Critter” is the theme of the day, while the song’s refrain reminds children to “get with the plan and put the trash in the garbage can.”

An island competition is being held with all the schools competing for the cleanest yard. Designated teachers and Cleanup TCI volunteers will do weekly evaluations over a period of two months. Children are also being asked to submit tips on the Three R’s: Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle. The best tip from each school will be chosen and broadcast on the various radio stations weekly. It is hoped that the children of the TCI will lead the way in keeping this country clean.

Beach cleanups are regularly scheduled throughout the year. For more information on Cleanup TCI or how you can become part of the solution, contact Michelle Fulford Gardiner at (649) 241-8093 or email whales@tciway.tc.

AD INFINITUM

Fortunately, the lowly grain of sand has the inherent ability to immortalize itself, because it’s doubtful the human populace would be so inclined. But hopefully, we’ll all think more about giving sand its due, once we realize its importance in our daily existence.

Allow me a parting tidbit on the miracle of sand. Ever wonder why our waters are such a beautiful shade of aquamarine? Our bountiful white sands covered by the crystal clear waters act as mirror for the sky, reflecting the colors of the heavens overhead. So once again, we must bow down to the sand, give thanks for this simplest of creations, and pray that the hourglass never runs dry.

“I’ve always wanted to ride a horse down the beach on a tropical island”

Until recently, that just wasn’t possible on Providenciales. There were a few privately owned horses here, but no facility or tourists. However, this year I’ve watched many people live that wistfully spoken dream, thanks to a couple of dedicated residents who have opened stables on the island.

Provo Ponies and Phillip Outten’s Riding opened their stable doors early in 2002, allowing tourists and residents alike to discover or renew their love of horses. Now we are not talking about dude ranches with a string of 30 or 40 horses. This is horseback riding island-style. Between the two outfits, they have just 14 horses. They are small, friendly places to visit, and riders are incorporated into the “family” for the duration of their riding excursion.

Phillip runs his operation on his own. Provo Ponies employs blond, vivacious Camille Slattery, native Iowan and mother of two, and 12 year old Dustin Wilson. Dustin, a student at Clement Howell High, came to the stable one evening hoping to learn the equestrian arts. Camille welcomed the lad and now he helps with the horses and absorbs equestrian lore on weekends and after school.

Ironically, the two outfits opened simultaneously. That synchronicity has helped them both. “We send each other business,” Camille explained, “so nobody is disappointed. It’s a win-win situation.” And the word is getting out–finally, you can go riding on Provo. Neither outfit lacks for eager riders.

Thirty seven year old Phillip Outten is an established artist on Provo. His gallery receives hundreds of visitors and his paintings hang in many homes. But the handsome, soft spoken artist is also a horseman.
Born on Grand Turk, he grew up around the horses that have roamed that island since the times of the Bermudian salt rakers. Those early settlers shipped the animals there to provide transportation. Stardust was Phillips’s first horse, but he admits that all the horses on Grand Turk have a place in his heart. He knows them all, and has taken care of and ridden many of them. In moving to Provo, he didn’t forget his early passion.

Today, on a large plot of land near the center of the island, Phillip lives and paints in his gallery, a beautiful studio surrounded by trees and blossoming bougainvilla. And he takes tourists riding. It’s a full life and much of his painting is done at night when the riding season heats up.

When I visited the artist’s studio home, I met a menagerie in an almost fairy tale setting. The Caribbean-style studio is painted in pastels and festooned with flowering vines. The horses bestowed a casual glance from their paddocks as I walked up the bordered stone path, escorted by two very large, very friendly dogs. Chickens scratched in the dirt; a pair of parrots and two delicate lovebirds serenaded me by the front door.
Phillip has four sturdy Grand Turk horses and a recent new addition, three month old colt Peppermint, son of his mare, Sunshine. Apache, his handsome, red, three year old gelding (neutered male), is also out of Sunshine.

The Provo Ponies stables are also home to other creatures, great and small. Three dogs, three cats, two birds and a roost full of “designer” chickens (very fancy hairdos on these birds) complement the stable of ten. Behind the Slattery home a Koi pond is part of the scenery and the deck is home to Guinea pigs and baby chicks.

The atmosphere at the two spreads is casual, allowing visitors to believe that it’s a simple matter to run these multiple animal households. But just consider what it takes to own horses that work for a living . . .

The day begins at dawn, when the horses are fed. This is especially important if there’s a morning ride. Horses have finicky stomachs and shouldn’t be exercised until their breakfast has settled, so timing is essential. Feeding itself is quite the chore. Bulky bales of hay and 50 pound bags of feed provide the main course. After breakfast, the stalls are mucked out and preparations for the ride commence.

For the riders, it’s idyllic. For Camille, Dustin and Phillip there’s a lot of work involved. Each horse is meticulously groomed before each ride. That means currying and brushing their coats, brushing their manes and tails to remove dirt and hay, and picking their hooves. A stone wedged in the frog of a horse’s foot is painful for the animal and will throw off his gait. (That makes it painful for the rider too.)

Saddles are surprisingly heavy and it takes real strength to tighten the girth. Gently manhandling bridles over heads, and bits into large mouths with BIG teeth requires finesse and more than a little patience. Then the rider mounts the horse, with or without a helpful “leg up.” Final adjustments include checking that the saddle is secure and adjusting stirrups for each rider’s legs. Basic instructions–how to go, stop and turn are provided, and the few necessary rules of the road, equestrian style, are reviewed.

A typical ride in paradise commences with a gentle walk down a quiet dirt road. Horse and rider size each other up and begin to develop confidence in each other. On a ride with Phillip, the path leads to the north shore and glorious Grace Bay Beach. Since this is THE beach on Provo, there are plenty of people to admire your horsemanship as you enjoy the ocean breeze and a fabulous sunset. Phillip also takes his guests to the south side, which is more easily accessible from his centrally located stables. The canals and flats, complete with flamingos, herons and ducks, make for a relaxing and interesting ride.

Phillip’s horses are relatively young, considering the equine species can live to the ripe old age of 40. Diamond, a dark brown gelding with the expected diamond blaze on his forehead, is about eight. “He’s like a Cadillac,” Phillip quipped. “He’s always good–no problems ever.” Kaya, named after the Bob Marley album, is a gorgeous deep honey colour with almost white blond mane and tail. He’s well schooled and an easy ride. But he does insist on eating the flowers in the yard so his paddock is floral free. Apache is a confident soul and seems to enjoy the tourist trade. Currently Sunshine’s day is spent with her new colt, but soon she’ll be back on the trail again.

The horses are taught to respond to commands communicated to them through the rider’s reining and leg movements. It’s a process, and an early stage is accustoming the animal to people and eventually to people actually sitting on its back. When Phillip acquired Diamond, and again when he started to train young Apache, he ran beside each horse down Grace Bay Beach in the early mornings and evenings. Inevitably horse and man attracted a crowd. “So I got Diamond, and then Apache, used to people by lifting kids onto their backs, while I held the lead and kept the horse calm. So really, a lot of tourists help me train these two horses,” he said with a broad smile. “Then when the horses were older, they were ready and people stop me on the beach and ask if they can ride. That’s how my business really started.”

The Provo Ponies stables are located in Long Bay Hills, a tranquil area dotted sporadically with homes. A 15 minute ride from the hilltop ranch delivered us to deserted Long Bay Beach via quiet dirt roads and a winding path through a stubby Provo “forest.” Most of the riders choose this route for a walk, trot or canter down miles of white sand edged by the shallow turquoise waters of the Caicos Banks.

Almost as popular is the ride along the Long Bay canal and the salinas that border it. We spotted five flamingos and numerous ducks during one late afternoon ride. The setting sun lit the salinas in a blaze of golds and pinks.

For the latest generation, Provo Ponies has a large paddock where children take lessons on Saturday mornings and horses are groomed and tacked up for trail rides the rest of the week.

The Slattery’s horse epic began when Daisy, a dainty mare from Grand Turk, came to stay in 1995. She was joined by two larger horses, originally from the Dominican Republic–a big dappled white named Dreamer and a smaller speedy bay aptly named Rapido. As much as Camille and her family loved her great big pets, they were and are expensive to feed and require a prodigious amount of work to keep them happy and fit. Being a practical woman, she considered the riding business. A paddock of paperwork was processed and Provo Ponies pranced into the ring. But three horses did not a stable make.
Four more horses, which had been brought to Provo a few years earlier, joined the Provo Ponies stable in early spring. Then, as if on cue, a girlfriend told Camille about some Grand Turk horses which needed new homes. Peg, Camille and Carol rented a barge, flew to Grand Turk to meet it, led six horses and a pony named Billy aboard, and sailed back to Provo.

Camille gained two horses and the pony from that expedition. Now, with nine horses and Billy, Provo Ponies was ready to canter into business. It was time for the horses to begin earning their keep.

Like most fledgling businesses, the operation moved forward from a walk. Seven months later, customers are galloping to their doors. The horses, bearers of novices and experts and everything in between, receive glowing reports from their riders. A lady from New York bubbled after a ride, “I’ve ridden all over the Caribbean and these are the best animals I’ve seen. They’re in great shape and they give a great ride.”
Her mount that day was gorgeous dark Limbo, with other guests on Cowboy, a handsome “paint,” Hero, a buckskin, and chestnut coloured Bruno.

Stable favourite with the regulars is Rapido, Camille’s son Matt’s horse. His trot is smooth, he always listens and responds to commands and he loves to gallop, if given the OK.

Dreamer, Hercules and Sampson (who is the only stallion in the herd) are known as the White Boys–for obvious reason. This handsome trio are great trail horses with personality plus. Turned loose in the paddock together they put on a show. Tails and manes streaming, they charge each other, rearing and raking the air in mock battles. Clearly these “servants of man” have an awesome strength and a will of their own.

Petite, feminine Daisy is the only lady in Camille’s herd. She and Billy are favoured mounts for young children. Patiently they put up with the fumblings of small but willing hands.

Horses, unlike man, choose to flee rather than fight when confronted with confusing or unknown events. Several of Camille’s horses were very flighty indeed when they first came to her. Their heads and bodies bore scars and they were nervous and rather bad tempered from a human point of view. Today, all ten follow her with their eyes, arch their necks for pats, and stand quietly to be shod or groomed.

Phillip Outten and Camille Slattery may not seem extraordinary to the casual visitor. Both carry on as if any one could do the same. But running a successful stable is no simple feat. Add the complications of unreliable water supply, the absence of a farrier to shoe the horses and the logistics of keeping sufficient fresh supplies of hay and horse feed into the equation and the very idea seems daunting.

The Turks & Caicos Islands bills itself as “Beautiful by Nature.” In a country that promotes ecologically sound tourism, horseback riding is right up there with kayaking and sailing as a means of discovering the natural wonders the country has to offer.

Thanks to Phillip Outten’s Riding and Provo Ponies, folks from six to sixty are riding Provo. You will come upon them, in twos and threes or fours and fives, exploring the back lanes and narrow shrub-lined access roads along the canals. You will find them cantering down pristine beaches with the wind in their faces and the sun in their eyes. They return to the stables refreshed and renewed. Euphoric is not too strong a word to describe the experience. I know. One of those riders is me, every chance I get.

“Does anyone know of any technical diving facilities in the Turks & Caicos Islands?” The e-mail managed to stay in my In box for less than a minute before I replied with a resounding “Yes!” Little did I know that this reply would involve me in one of the most interesting projects of my diving career. The message was from Tanya Streeter. Her mission: to set a new world record in free diving. My mission (should I choose to accept it): to assemble a team of safety divers that would support Tanya’s record-breaking dive to 160 meters (525 feet).

Tanya Streeter is 29 years old. She was born in the Cayman Islands and educated in the UK. She is also no stranger to world records. In 1998, just months after discovering her extraordinary talent for breath hold diving, Tanya had women’s and men’s free diving records tumbling.

This year, Tanya has set her sights on the ultimate challenge: to dive deeper than any other human being on a single breath of air. On August 17, 2002, Tanya hoped to beat the women’s No Limits Free Dive record, held by Canadian Mandy-Rae Cruickshank at 136 meters (446 feet). Following this, Tanya was then hoping to smash the men’s world record, held by Frenchman Loic Leferme at 154 meters (505 feet).

Like many scuba divers, I always viewed free diving with a sense of deep-rooted suspicion: I mean, if you want to dive deep why don’t you use tanks? I certainly never dreamed of becoming involved with the sport in any supervisory capacity. Tanya’s e-mail expressed her hope that the attempt could take place in the Turks & Caicos Islands, which are famous for their pristine waters and dramatic walls, which in places drop precipitously from 10 to over 2,500 meters. Tanya’s husband (and business manager) Paul Streeter had already secured sponsorship for the event from Club Med Turkoise, an all-inclusive resort based on beautiful Grace Bay Beach in Providenciales. As the owner of O2 Technical Diving, the TCI’s only technical diving facility (based at Big Blue Unlimited), I was approached to help set up, support and sponsor the event in conjunction with Red Bull, Club Med and Big Blue Unlimited.

SETTING THE STAGE

Our first job was to choose a dive site that would best suit the record attempt. It had to be within reasonable distance from shore in case of an emergency evacuation to the local recompression chamber and medical facilities. The chosen site also needed to be next to very deep water.

The wall opposite Grace Bay on the northern shore of Providenciales starts in 12 meters (40 feet) and drops to a sandy ridge at 30 meters (100 feet) before sloping down to the “second wall” in 50 meters (165 feet). It was upon the edge of this second wall that we decided to fix a new permanent mooring.

Hanging over the edge of the drop-off, we secured the mooring line and watched the wall drop steeply away below us to 7,000 feet. The line had to be extended to 200 meters to ensure that the boat hung well out into the blue and did not drift into the edge of the wall. That also meant that we had to rely upon the wind blowing easterly for successful training dives and the record attempt to take place. Thankfully, calm conditions, excellent visibility and gentle, predictable tradewinds made this the perfect location for the record attempt.

GEARING UP

The stage was set: now we needed the equipment. Over 20 large cylinders of oxygen and helium had to be imported from Miami, incurring a whopping gas bill of over $1,500. Two hundred meters of rope supplied by Pelican Rope (complete with reflective strip for low light conditions) for the sled were also imported along with 80 meters of deco line and various Diverite lift bags for recovering the sled from depth. All these ropes needed stretching and accurate measuring and marking so that they could be set to the required depths. An old 12 liter scuba cylinder filled with lead and concrete provided 121 pounds of ballast for the sled line and a makeshift crane was rigged to the back of the Club Med dive boat to ensure the line was secured correctly. Spare air and Nitrox were positioned along the deco line some 45 feet away from Tanya’s dive line as well as cylinders dedicated to filling the lift bags that would raise the heavy sled and ballast back to the surface after each dive.

The sled itself looked like a medieval torture machine. Measuring 11 feet in length and weighing close to 35 pounds, I marveled at how anyone could be brave enough to attach themselves to it and pull the release pin. As safety divers, we had to ensure that we were at least 10 feet away from the sled as it thundered past us at depth to avoid hitting the protruding camera arm.

Prior to the dive, the sled is weighted with a further 45 pounds to help speed Tanya’s descent and hangs from the stern of the boat. It remains at the surface as Tanya slides her fins into the lower wedge. The top portion detaches from the weighted lower portion with a quick release system incorporating a large lift bag (custom-made by Subsalve). A three liter air cylinder provides enough lift for Tanya’s return journey. Tanya also wears a climbing safety harness attached to a metal ring that runs up and down the rope just above the lift bag. This allows the safety divers to assist Tanya to the surface using additional lift bags in case of emergency.

Upon Tanya’s signal the pin is released and the sled begins its journey down the rope to depth. Tanya can control the speed of her descent by using a brake and also by cracking small amounts of air into the lift bag. A large knot at the bottom of the rope stops the sled’s descent at the target operating depth. It is then Tanya’s job to release the lift bag section of the sled from the lower part and open the tank valve to put air into the lift bag. Like a Polaris missile, Tanya is then catapulted back to the surface at a horrifying ascent rate that would cause a dive computer to sulk for several days. Tanya pulls a quick release pin at the back of her safety harness and then releases the lift bag at 30 meters, gently swimming the rest of the way to the surface. This helps to avoid shallow water blackout that may be caused during the rapid ascent through the last two atmospheres of pressure, where oxygen can quite literally be sucked out of her blood as her lungs re-expand. After a day or two of testing, practice and preparation, we were quite happy with the initial setup.

PUTTING PLAN INTO PRACTICE

David Apperley and I had put together an international team of safety divers. The team was made up of several local divers with additional divers being flown in from the United States and even as far away as Australia. The final team of ten consisted of five Brits, three Americans, one Swiss and one Australian. To satisfy the AIDA (Association International our le Development D’Apnea) guidelines, all safety divers are required to have a buddy and we decided to stage divers at 40 meters (130 feet), 80 meters (266 feet), 110 meters (366 feet) and 130 meters (432 feet). The 130 meter divers (David Apperley and I) were on inspiration closed circuit rebreathers and had suitable gas and tables to reach the record depth of 160 meters if required.

he Club Med dive boat (previously used for conducting “try a dive” classes) suddenly looked a more serious beast altogether with row upon row of double cylinders, stage bottles and rebreathers lining its decks. As our team loaded the boat we received horrified looks from the Club Med resort divers about to venture into the ocean for the first time. The boat was loaded, the team briefed. It was time to go diving.

Twelve days of diving were scheduled in the build-up to the record attempt. Each day allowed Tanya to venture progressively deeper, with contingency days put in reserve should we fall behind schedule. We were to dive on alternate days to avoid multiple deep exposures. The first dive took place on July 27. A half hour before each training dive the boat falls silent as Tanya and the safety divers focus mentally in preparation for the dive. The official timekeeper on board then begins the countdown. Ten minutes before Tanya is ready for her dive, all the safety divers are in the water and at seven minutes, the deepest divers start their descent.

There are several emergency scenarios when a dive might be aborted. For example, if the sled rope was damaged, hanging at a steep angle or if it made contact with the wall itself. As I passed 80 meters (266 feet) on that first day, it was clear we would have to abort. There below us, climbing steadily out of the gloom, was a deep section of the wall. The boat had drifted in the wind, causing the line to drag against the wall at about 110 meters (366 feet). Not a pleasant thing for Tanya to plow into on her first dive!

Each diver carries two metal bars for signaling and we started communicating the abort dive signal up towards the shallow support team, who relayed it up to the surface where Tanya’s husband Paul periodically put an ear in the water to listen for such a signal. Decompressing after an unsuccessful dive is a frustrating experience and I realized that we would have to extend the mooring line considerably to ensure that the boat hung over the abyss, well clear of the wall.

GETTING IN DEEPER

After a few days of diving, we had ironed out these and other logistical issues and the team was finally treated to our first proper deep ocean dives. It’s said that Eskimos have over 20 words to describe snow. As our team descended into the open ocean, I realized that you would need as many words to describe the iridescent shades of blue we encountered on our decent.

Passing 100 meters (325 feet), we hit a thermocline and the water turned midnight blue before gradually fading to the inky blackness below. No sign of life down here. No sharks or other pelagics. Not a single fish. It was very quiet and eerie. Were it not for the line in front of us, we could easily have become disoriented. With no bubbles, it was easy to forget which way was up. Hovering at 120 meters (400 feet) with 7,000 feet of nothingness below you certainly helps you focus on the task at hand. Tanya was expected down in less than a minute. My lift bag was out and ready in case I needed to attach it to her or to the rope itself. I do another quick systems check: depth, time and PO2 all in line. Run time slowly creeping up.

A distant clinking of metal sounds above us as the 80 meter (266 feet) divers signal to Tanya so that she knows how deep she is. These audible signals are essential for Tanya to time her equalizations effectively. Looking up, I can clearly see Tanya fast approaching the 90 meter (300 feet) mark. I start singing “Crocodile Rock” into my rebreather mouthpiece–Tanya’s request as it helps remind her there are other human beings down there with her. The noise I make on the helium-rich mix sounds nothing like Elton John but Tanya cracks a smile as she passes, eyes tight shut, mind focused and her body so compressed that her wetsuit hangs around her like a shedded second skin. A sudden reality check as your brain tries to process what you are seeing: You are at 120 meters and a silver wet suited platinum blonde is thundering past you on a single breath of air. It’s a surreal vision that your mind never truly gets used to accepting.

Clang! Clang! Clang! David signals to Tanya that she is a few feet from the bottom but she stops short at 132 meters (440 feet), her right ear refusing to equalize. With a look of disappointment, she transfers her focus to the top section of the sled, unclips the quick release and rockets back to the surface in a torrent of bubbles. Dave and I are left alone in the blue facing over two hours of decompression. All the build- up and excitement of the dive is over in just two minutes and we start to crawl our way back up through the deep stops. At 80 meters (266 feet), I remove an air cylinder from the bottom of the deco line and swim it over to the sled line. There, David attaches a climbing ascender and lift bags and sends the sled back up to the surface. We jump back onto the main deco line at 70 meters (233 feet) and are pleased to see the safety divers swoop down to intercept us at 40 meters (130 feet) to ensure all is OK.

Two hours later we surface and look enviously at the boat crew who have been sunbathing during our decompression. Our deco stops are pretty boring hangs (nothing to see) and we appreciated Tanya’s frequent dives down to our shallower stops with drinks, games of paper, rock, scissors and moral support.

Following the dive was the daunting prospect of refilling all the gases and amending the dive plan to cover the next deeper progression. Having a Haskell booster pump and helium analyzer at the dive center helped tremendously and all the team chipped in so that the filling was never left to just one individual. A documentary film crew filming the event was genuinely surprised to discover that so much work and planning goes into conducting a technical dive. Most spectators have little clue to how much effort goes into each day’s diving.

After two weeks of successful training dives, we had to add “jellyfish stings” to our list of possible abort dive scenarios. Tanya, Paul and some of the deeper divers found themselves surrounded by annoying hydroids and spent most of the dive swatting them away. Several swollen faces were seen at breakfast the following day and dive hoods became a standard piece of equipment. Tanya had developed a congested ear and swollen throat and had seemed to hit a barrier at 132 meters where her ear stubbornly refused to equalize.

RIDING THE STORM OUT

August 9 proved to be an interesting day when a freak tropical storm hit the boat. In minutes, the clear blue sky dramatically changed to 40 MPH winds, large swells and lightning striking the water around the boat. Not a problem for the divers who were oblivious to all this surface commotion: that is, until the wind changed direction. In our briefing, we had stated that the divers’ deco line should be released by a crew member to float free should the boat start to get dragged through the water. I guess someone forgot this because suddenly all the divers found themselves rocketing through the water with computer ascent alarms screaming as the deco line turned into a fast moving tow rope. We stabilized our deep stops at 30 meters and decided to keep the team together on the line until the storm blew over to avoid getting dragged onto the shallow reef.

Gliding through the water we could see the rain lashing the surface and the lightening flashes around the boat. I remember trying to rack my brains on whether or not electricity could pass down nylon rope to decompressing divers. What a lousy way to go: frazzled by lightning at 30 meters! Below us, the edge of the second wall loomed up. We were now drifting into shallower water and treated to a beautiful scenic dive as we clung to the rope and tried to maintain depth. The boat eventually slowed and we released the line and drifted into the wall at 20 meters (66 feet) to conduct our long shallow stops surrounded by a multitude of tropical fish and pristine coral formations.

BREAKING THE RECORD

On the evening of August 16, the whole team was trying hard to remain focused on the task ahead of us. Tanya had successfully overcome her equalization problems and had already unofficially broken the men and women’s record with a dive to 156 meters (512 feet). Now we just had to do the same in front of the AIDA judges with the television crews and world press breathing down our necks.

On the morning of the record attempt, we tried to keep the atmosphere light and treat it as though it were “just another day.” (Easier said than done when every move you make is being filmed and recorded.) The weather looked perfect, the team was fit and rested, and Tanya arrived with that determined look upon her face that communicated supreme confidence in the job she had to do. The half hour call went out and all the divers moved down from the top deck where they were visualizing the dive and started conducting final checks on their equipment.

Twenty minutes before the dive, I went to pressurize the O2 regulator on my rebreather and was greeted by a loud hissing noise as the intermediate pressure went through the roof. Murphy (as in “Murphy’s Law”) was clearly on board that day and letting his presence be known. I kept a spare regulator with me so I quietly moved the rebreather to the front of the boat and concentrated on replacing the O2 reg, adjusting the intermediate pressure and testing, retesting and triple-testing the system as the clock slowly ticked by. By the time I had finished, it was ten minutes before the dive and I concentrated on gearing up, getting into the water, performing several safety checks and refocusing on the dive ahead. Murphy on the surface I don’t mind dealing with.

David Apperley and I started our descent to 130 meters (432 feet) at T-minus seven minutes. As I reached 40 meters (130 feet), I suddenly became aware that I was on my own. Dave was still at 25 meters (85 feet) signaling that his right ear would not clear. Now it was a question of timing. Could Dave clear his ear in time to join me at depth? After two minutes, Dave was able to join me at 60 meters (200 feet) and gave me a confident OK sign. Murphy was defeated again and we had the dive of our lives to look forward to.

The setting could not have been better. As we passed 100 meters (325 feet), we could clearly see the wall off to our right gradually slope down to undercut the line at 160 meters. Like a rugged lunar landscape, the vast wall provided an incredible backdrop for the record attempt. Glancing above us it looked as if Tanya was descending the side of the Grand Canyon as she slowly trundled down to greet us at 130 meters.
“Go on girl, you can do it!,” David and I screamed into our mouthpieces. The helium distortion made us sound like the Smurfs cheering on their favorite football team. But it seemed to help Tanya relax. She hit 145 meters and stopped suddenly as she slammed on the brakes.
“Only ten meters to go!,” we shouted. “Go on girl! You can do it!”
Tanya released the brake and continued down. She progressed slowly, clearly monitoring the increasing pressure on her eardrums. Clunk. The sled hit bottom. She had done it. She was at 160 meters, the deepest anyone had ever been on a single breath of air. Dave and I could not control our excitement.

“It’s a new world record!,” we screamed in unison.

Calm and smiling, she reached above her head to crack open the lift bag. She seemed to be taking her time. Was there a problem? Had Murphy returned for a final visit? My heart stopped beating.

Nothing happened. Tanya did not start moving upwards. She hadn’t pulled the release clip. Narcosis is inevitable for Tanya at this depth, affecting coherent thoughts.

David and I dropped like stones to reach her, concerned that the lift bag cylinder had not been correctly filled or that there was inadequate gas inside it to initiate the lift. As we swooped towards her, as if coming out of a trance she slowly reached her hand down and released the clip connecting her to the massive weight that took her to depth.
With the bag now fully inflated and the release suddenly unclipped, I was treated to one of the finest sites of my life. In an explosion of bubbles and with a huge grin on her face, Tanya rocketed toward the surface, passing us at an incredible speed, her body perfectly framed against the spectacular cliff wall that loomed above our heads. We watched as she disappeared from sight into the blue ceiling above us and listened for the satisfying three clicks that meant she had safely reached the 40 meter mark. Turning to each other with a great sense of accomplishment, Dave and I took one last look around us at a sight no human had ever seen before. The wall had never looked so beautiful. And our job was done. We turned and slowly started up towards the surface.

A Channel Five documentary called “Extraordinary People” covered this unique event and is scheduled for viewing in January 2003 in the UK and later in the year in the USA as part of a Discovery Channel special. For further information, visit www.o2technicaldiving.com or www.redefineyourlimits.com.